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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone!

Need some help in confirming what's the reason my wee k7 is unable to crank.

Pushing the start button will make the headlights go out. There is a clicking sound that accompanies each time I press the button.

Fuel pump primes when the ignition is switched on and subsequent times when I press the start button with the clutch pulled in.

Fuel level was at the 1st low fuel indicator. Topped up 10 liters.

Tried shorting the cable that plugs into the clutch switch. Also gave no response from the starter motor.

Tried moving about the wires going into the clutch switch and the starter relay to check for loose wiring while a friend clutches in and press the start button.. gave no response from the starter motor.

I was able to push start the bike by popping the clutch in 2nd gear down a slope.

Am I correct to say it's the starter motor at fault? I really want to be dead sure about this as the starter motor isn't cheap to replace. Any other steps I haven't done, that could confirm this?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I forgot to mention that battery is at 12.3V before turning the ignition, which brings it down to 11.5V. However, I don't think there is load since the starter motor doesn't crank.
 

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Starter buttons go bad without a headlight relay and can cause that symptom. Also loose/bad battery terminal connection. Others will chime in that know more.
 

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How old is the battery? At 12.3 your battery is below 50%. Take the battery out, charge it, then do a load test on it(auto parts stores will do it for free here).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll take out the battery to charge tomorrow and see if that helps. Not sure if I'll be able to test under load in another way besides putting the battery back and try cranking it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Actually my voltmeter is attached to the bike. So any readings include the headlight running at the same time. So is it still considered poor voltage?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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11.5V with the start button pressed is low and the headlights are out so not adding to the draw. There is definitely a load even though there is no cranking as indicated by the voltage drop so the starter motor is drawing power rather than having an open circuit. Everything you've reported is consistent with a bad battery so that is the first thing to check.
 

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11.5V with the start button pressed is low and the headlights are out so not adding to the draw. There is definitely a load even though there is no cranking as indicated by the voltage drop so the starter motor is drawing power rather than having an open circuit. Everything you've reported is consistent with a bad battery so that is the first thing to check.
I would start by checking that the cables were properly attached to the battery. I have had the bolts on the battery end go lose several times on different Stroms.

..Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So here is what I did yesterday:

Took out the battery brought home to charge. Took about 35 min with 10A charging. Put back the battery and nope nothing.

Friend drove over and we connected jumper cables to his car battery and also nothing. While connected to the car battery and a friend trying to crank, I knocked the side of the starter motor and voila it started!

Disconnected my headlights and the voltage showed 13.8V (which climbed to 14.1V after 10mins) with the bike running. So shut down the bike for an hour and tried again. Nope it couldn't crank. Voltage read 12.1 and steadily dropped to below 12V while pushing the start button with the headlights disconnected.

So suspecting it's faulty 1 month old battery, my buddy brought it back to the shop he got it from for me. They tested it (not under load) and showed 12.7V. This seemed normal I think? Next thing to suspect is possible current leak? I plan to install a headlight switch tapping into the hi/low switch wiring (yellow with white tracer).

I've some questions: I know the current flow is really high. How do I check for current leakage, possible to do myself?

Next is how does adding a relay to my headlight switch help with my situation. Is it even necessary?

Lastly, should I replace the motor in the starter motor as the knocking to me was meant to shake off some built up carbon which seemed to work. Or should I leave this alone completely?
 

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A charged battery should be more than 12.7 V. If the voltage dropped to 12.1 just sitting there with everything off and before you cranked, it seems to me like a bad battery.
 

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