StromTrooper banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, after doing some extensive work with the bike lately (replaced stator and regulator/rectifier - great success!), I also got the urge to swap out my links with a set of Kouba 3/4" links. The problem is that, though I have tried and tried, I simply can't even get the original nut to budge on the existing link. Has anyone else encountered this before? The bike is on the center stand when I am attempting this. My dad suggested using a thing called "Marvel's Mystery Oil" to loosen it, but I have never used it before. Is there a trick to getting them off?
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,047 Posts
A penetrant may help. WD40 is a common one. The best in tests is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid but don't get any on painted surfaces. WD40 will probably be all you need. Spray in on and give it a hour to work. A breaker bar provides more force than a ratchet for a socket wrench. A six point box wrench or socket wrench is less likely to round over hex heads than a 12 point. Don't even think of using an open end wrench on a stubborn nut or bolt. More leverage can often be gained by slipping a length of pipe over a tool to give it a longer handle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Bolt-out if you can find it otherwise try Jig a Loo. Failing that you may have to use a little heat in case permanent thread lock was applied.

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Greywolf! Went home at lunchtime, sprayed some WD-40 on it, and when I got home I whipped out the really heavy duty torque wrench I have with the long handle and the nut came right off. Very simple swap, now I just need to adjust the front forks when I get home so they are lowered about the same.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,047 Posts
I hope it was a beam type torque wrench or you checked the calibration afterwards. Click types should never be used to remove fasteners, especially stubborn ones. They can be put out of calibration or even damaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Good to know, I did not realize that. It was a click type, so I will make sure to check the calibration on it when I get home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,228 Posts
Not sure how you will check calibrations. I know that Snap-on and stuff like that can be sent back to the factory for calibration.
Always set the value to Zero when you are done too ot the wrench will take an invalid set.
A good breaker bar is a cheap useful tool for the kit.
I've used one ratchet against another for stiff/tight fasteners They can fit in tight places against a frame member and come free by backing them off.
I've used a length of copper pipe or galvanized pipe as an extension on ratchets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Most large urban centres will have a shop capable of calibrating torque wrenches...

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top