StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone!

Let me start off by saying how awesome this forum is and how incredibly helpful so many of you have already been in my short time owning this bike.

I'm a new owner of a 2004 DL650 that I got for dirt cheap with a few issues. I saved enough on the purchase that I did not mind replacing parts to get her up to speed. In no particular order I got: New tires, new OEM fuel pump assembly (tried the external fuel filter before splurging), iridium spark plugs, air filter, oil + filter, chain + sprockets, clutch lever, and battery.

I did everything myself (except for tires) thanks to your guyses help, but it appears I'm stuck on my most recent issue.

Here's the issue: When the bike is warmed up, coming to a stop or while stopped, the bike will 'skip a beat' (engine miss?) where it'll go completely silent for a split second, revs will drop, and then continue running. This will happen a few times if I do not give it some throttle and eventually will die without intervention. It's worth noting this happens whether I'm in gear with clutch in or even in neutral. (I thought it was a clutch issue so I adjusted it today but issue is still there)

Now here's where it gets tricky: When I press the starter button to start it up again, with the clutch fully in, nothing happens. Now if I keep the starter pressed and let go of the clutch very slightly it will start right up. My clutch switch is a bit dodgy (bent pin) bit it's still there and always lets me start her up without fiddling with it.

I have no idea what it could be as I've read conflicting info all over the place. I don't think it's bad gas as I only fill up at top-tier stations and always use premium. I've also ran it on 1 bar for a bit (so close to empty) and did not have any fuel delivery issues (or water intake issues).


Any help would be much appreciated! Here's a pic on the way to the shop with tires and my secondary mode of transportation :thumbup:
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,463 Posts
What brand of clutch lever did you buy? Aftermarket ones can have problems engaging the clutch safety switch. The "tricky" part of your issues sounds like a bad clutch switch as in corroded and not making good contact.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,702 Posts
clutch lever,
Yup - it's either the switch or the lever has no tang on it to push the switch in ....guess how I know.:crying2:

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,103 Posts
I have the "gets tricky" part. Just started before I got home from the Eastern Rally. Pull in the lever all the way against the grips, no start. Release the lever slightly, maybe a quarter inch, and it starts. Sometimes I have wiggle the lever back and forth slightly a hair or two and then it starts. But it has always started if I use that process. And I do have aftermarket cheap Chinese knock-off levers but have had them on the bike for five (5) years. My guess is it is my switch, probably worn or corroded, but haven't had time to pull off and check.

I do not have "the issue". I do not see any deviation in rpms stopped, stopping, or otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yup - it's either the switch or the lever has no tang on it to push the switch in ....guess how I know.:crying2:

I bought the MZS Shorty Levers off Amazon.

The lever may be the cause of the secondary issue, but I don't think it's what's causing the bike to die while running in neutral...Right? As far as I know the clutch switch only prevents the bike from starting if not depressed, it won't kill it while running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,705 Posts
Running issues at low throttle are often associated with a worn TPS. Google here and search for TPS issues, there will be a ton of references. I have no personal experience with that issue.

Would help if you provide more details about your bike, mileage etc.

Other possibilities are loose battery connection or poor/ corroded contacts or corroded ground contacts of the main electrical system. Worth checking regardless as preventative maintenance. Also check the main connector in the left front fairing to make sure there is good clean contact and no signs of burning.

Others may have more specific experience to chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It's an '04 DL650 22k miles. Bought from a guy in Orlando (Im in Miami) who left it sitting for a while in the elements after the hurricane destroyed the shed it was in. I managed to ride it back to Miami (not the best idea) all the while I was experiencing fuel delivery issues consistent with a clogged fuel filter. About a month and $1k later she has all the new important bits and was running fine for a few hundred miles. I took her on a few dirt roads with some mud puddles here and there and started experiencing this issue shortly after.

I just put her in dealer mode and am not getting any codes while I am experiencing the same cutoff issue. Now it is happening while cold, can't even let the bike warm up for 30 seconds without it dying. I notice that it idles at around 1100rpm then slooooowly comes down to 1kish and starts to cut off.

Also worth noting: She runs fine as long as she's moving. I get the cutoff issue when I am coming to a stop traveling <10mph with clutch in in 1st gear and also while stopped. I can keep her alive with some throttle input.

I checked the battery connection and switched the battery with a lithium in my other bike ('01 SV650 for sale!) and don't notice any difference. It still dies. Will try adjusting my idle up.

I'll order the TPS as that seems like my best bet, unless somebody has any other ideas for me to test before I dig myself deeper in the hole?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,705 Posts
Your mileage seems low for a TPS been worn out. Raise the idle to 1300 first and see if it helps.

Check for corroded electrical connectors, especially if riding through puddles may really be correlated with the problem. May be coincidence, maybe not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Raised idle mistakenly to 3k and it still dies (got it down to 1500 now). I checked fuel flow with a water bottle and after 3 priming cycles with bike off it filled nearly to top so the pump seems fine. Checked air filter - still looks new along with the gasket around the filter. Spark plugs look good also, brown color on tip.

Now it's even worse, same symptoms when my pump/filter was bad. Heavy throttle input makes it stutter and bog and dies immediately.

So it's not the:
Battery, fuel pump.filter, idle speed, air filter, or spark plugs...Right?

Just to be sure the TPS is #7 on this diagram correct? mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/508afcd4f870023530722fde/throttle-body
Just add w's

Going to see if I can adjust the TPS now.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Admin is taking too long to approve my messages so I'll just write it again...

Mistakenly raised RPM's to 3k, it still dies (I got it down to 1500 now). Checked fuel pump - I nearly filled up a plastic water bottle (500ml) with 3 priming cycles. Checked spark plugs, they seem fine and have a nice brown color on tip. Checked air filter and gasket, still looks new. Electrical connections look good from what I can see..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I still can't post links but if you search this in Google it should be the first result - Quick fuel pump flow test. - V-Strom Riders International

It's on vstromdotinfo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
It is basically the same thing. An extract from the link in my previous post: "The spec is 1200ml in 30 secs, not 60. Your pump and filter are producing good flow, don't worry about it. Mine was down to 500ml in 30secs before symptoms showed up." That test is not as accurate as Quick fuel pump flow test..
How far have you looked under the tank? Have you had the air box off yet? Nothing causing the STVA to bind (49 state on a cal. TB's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
It is basically the same thing. An extract from the link in my previous post: "The spec is 1200ml in 30 secs, not 60. Your pump and filter are producing good flow, don't worry about it. Mine was down to 500ml in 30secs before symptoms showed up." That test is not as accurate as .
How far have you looked under the tank? Have you had the air box off yet? Nothing causing the STVA to bind
So you're saying I am good or I should conduct the other longer fuel test? I have not had the entire airbox off yet, will probably check today.

So dumb and frustrated me thought checking just one spark plug was all it took yesterday, when I remembered I had 2 today. Checked the other plug and sure enough it's pretty dirty. Not discolored or anything, but there is probably some water and dirt in the cylinder head from the puddles I went through. Check the pic below and keep in mind I replaced both maybe 200 miles ago so they are/were brand new.

I can't find any info on how to clean the cylinder or anything of the sort...I'm assuming it's not something normally done? I'll try cleaning the plug and starting her up again.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
Don't worry we are all learning something new each day, very few have all the answers. I changed over to the dual electrode CR8EK but from the site many have gone the dual electrode CR8EIX route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I'm using the CR8EIX plugs. Also, just cleaned it and tried again but it still dies no change.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,463 Posts
Puddles should not be a problem ever unless the boot was not on all the way or is damaged. If it's not fuel delivery, then it's electrical and something might be robbing the power to the plug or plugs. On the left side under the tank shroud, there is a large white connector with about 10 wires to it. Un plug it and take a close look at all the connections for melting or burning and corrosion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
Sort of a long shot, but also when you were checking plugs make sure that there is no water buildup in the plug area. Sometimes the drain holes get plugged with mud and the spark plugs start "drowning".
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,702 Posts
Yup - it's either the switch or the lever has no tang on it to push the switch in ....guess how I know.

I bought the MZS Shorty Levers off Amazon
.
Still needs the tang ...even if the ad SAYS it will fit your bike ...it still won't close the switch without the tang.

And yes the resulting "symptoms" are very weird. I'd get that sorted before doing anything else as what you describe - especially as coming to a stop and the bike dies is right on the money .....and to complicate things, it's not consistent.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top