02 1000
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Joined
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676 Posts
I bought my K2 in 2008 with 10K miles. It had the lean spot off-idle and the chudder, as well as some surging
at low rpms in city traffic.
Adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS) to raise the -COO bar at around 1600rpm, instead of around 3500rpm,
eliminated my off-idle problem and most of the surging. Throttle Body Synchronisation (TBS) eliminated the rest of
the surging and added a nice power boost. I've checked both to start each summer but no further adjustments
needed. It's running great and gets 40-44mpg.
I installed a new style clutch basket in 2008 and the chudder went away but is gradually returning. I don't notice it much
during moderate throttle use in traffic and not at all after a downshift to get near 4000rpm for harder acceleration.
I'd say your major concerns at 15K miles would be a valve clearance check and some thought to changing to a Mosfet R/R.
I put off the valve clearance check until about 20K miles. Although the Vee was running great, the exhaust clearances were
at bare minimums! I re-shimmed all to mid or wide limits and don't expect near future need for this based on many posts
to this forum. It's a job getting all the plastic off and you'll need a torque wrench but the Vee's cams are gear driven so no
messing with cam chains. :hurray: Take advantage of having the tank and plastic off to replace the PIA to get at air filter
which is about due at 15K.
Charging system failures on the V-Strom are too common. I've replaced 2 stators and regulator/rectifiers on my Suzuki
1978 GS1000 over the years and the 30 year old system is basically the same on the Vee! I followed advice on this forum
and replaced the stock r/r with a Mosfet r/r. Superior low rpm volts mean my lights don't dim at a stop any more and the
Mosfet r/r doesn't get 3rd degree burn hot which I take as a good sign for avoiding getting stranded.
Odometer is currently at 43K miles. You will really enjoy your Vee for everyday, or for long, brain-soothing trips.
at low rpms in city traffic.
Adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS) to raise the -COO bar at around 1600rpm, instead of around 3500rpm,
eliminated my off-idle problem and most of the surging. Throttle Body Synchronisation (TBS) eliminated the rest of
the surging and added a nice power boost. I've checked both to start each summer but no further adjustments
needed. It's running great and gets 40-44mpg.
I installed a new style clutch basket in 2008 and the chudder went away but is gradually returning. I don't notice it much
during moderate throttle use in traffic and not at all after a downshift to get near 4000rpm for harder acceleration.
I'd say your major concerns at 15K miles would be a valve clearance check and some thought to changing to a Mosfet R/R.
I put off the valve clearance check until about 20K miles. Although the Vee was running great, the exhaust clearances were
at bare minimums! I re-shimmed all to mid or wide limits and don't expect near future need for this based on many posts
to this forum. It's a job getting all the plastic off and you'll need a torque wrench but the Vee's cams are gear driven so no
messing with cam chains. :hurray: Take advantage of having the tank and plastic off to replace the PIA to get at air filter
which is about due at 15K.
Charging system failures on the V-Strom are too common. I've replaced 2 stators and regulator/rectifiers on my Suzuki
1978 GS1000 over the years and the 30 year old system is basically the same on the Vee! I followed advice on this forum
and replaced the stock r/r with a Mosfet r/r. Superior low rpm volts mean my lights don't dim at a stop any more and the
Mosfet r/r doesn't get 3rd degree burn hot which I take as a good sign for avoiding getting stranded.
Odometer is currently at 43K miles. You will really enjoy your Vee for everyday, or for long, brain-soothing trips.
Joined
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3,899 Posts
FWIW, the 02 models seem to have fewer stator failures -- the stats are admittedly a little skimpy, but the 2002 stator puts out 50 watts less than later models, so it produces less excess heat. It might also have slightly larger-gauge wires or fewer turns of wire stuffed onto the stator poles than the stators in later models (don't know -- never had the chance to compare them directly.)
With that said, like all Suzukis since time immemorial, the charging problems are ultimately caused by crappy connectors. A bit of corrosion creeps in, resistance goes up, the connectors get hot, etc.
So, if I were confronted with a new-to-me 2002, I would pull the left side panel off and thoroughly clean the electrical connections to the regulator/rectifier and the starter solenoid (all the current to run the bike passes through one undersized connector here) and then reassemble with dielectric grease. Then I would pull the tank and the rest of the plastics and do the same for all the other connectors.
With that said, like all Suzukis since time immemorial, the charging problems are ultimately caused by crappy connectors. A bit of corrosion creeps in, resistance goes up, the connectors get hot, etc.
So, if I were confronted with a new-to-me 2002, I would pull the left side panel off and thoroughly clean the electrical connections to the regulator/rectifier and the starter solenoid (all the current to run the bike passes through one undersized connector here) and then reassemble with dielectric grease. Then I would pull the tank and the rest of the plastics and do the same for all the other connectors.
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