Tech question re splitting 12v to 5v hardwire - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-27-2013, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Tech question re splitting 12v to 5v hardwire

In making a plan to add power supplies for a GPS and phone, a couple of questions came up:

1. I bought the OE two wire horn connector and plugged it into the grip heater connector in the wire harness. I plan to connect a GA-NHWC2 hardwire 12v to 5v set up with a usb micro connector at the end. This will power the GPS. I would also like to have power for my smart phone. Should I splice in a usb mini male plug after the "black box" on the GA-NHWC2 cable? Or would it be better to get a GA-NHWC3 cable (same as the GA-NHWC2,except ends in a usb micro plug instead of a mini plug) and wire them both to the end of the horn connector?

2. However I connect the mini and micro cables to the end of the grip heater/horn connector set up, is it a good practice to make the connection at the end of the horn connector black plastic plug with two male quick disconnects? Or is it way better to clip the black connector off and solder the connection instead?

3. In testing the end of the horn connector last night to find and mark the hotwire, I accidentally made enough contact with the engine to make a small spark. I was under the impression the orange/green wire in the grip heater connector was fuse protected, yet the fuse did not blow. Should I add another fuse between the grip heater connector and the 12v to 5v converter cable?

Thanks for any helpful replies.
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-27-2013, 05:47 PM
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I haven't really thought about #1 and #2 but they are really personal choices. For #3, the power comes off the signals fuse. You just didn't make the connection long enough to blow the fuse.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-27-2013, 05:56 PM
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Those 12V to 5V converters have a maximum load capacity. Your smartphone will likely draw the maximum available USB power of 0.5A at 5VDC. I'd use two converters, and protect each one on the 12V side with a separate 2A fuse. That size fuse will allow the inrush surge of connecting the device and turning on the bike, but will blow if there is a real problem before it takes out all of your signal circuit.

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post #4 of 6 Old 02-27-2013, 06:41 PM
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Now I'm getting a better idea of the setup. Do check device capacities. Don't use more than 80% of the load capacity on any device. If the added wiring is of small diameter, check to see if there is an inline fuse or a fuse within the converter. Smaller diameter wiring requires a smaller fuse.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-27-2013, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Greywolf and Beac83, thank you guys very much for the prompt replies. I apparently have a few more things to consider, but at least I have a general confidence I'm not going to permanently break anything either way. If nothing else, I'm probably going to work in a fuse where the horn lead terminal connects to the converter wire (or wires).
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-27-2013, 11:25 PM
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You sound like you know how to solder. I'd just buy something like this at a local autoparts or electronic store, take it apart, and hardwire the 12v lines to a switched source. Maybe hotglue it too to protect it from moisture or put it back in the housing.

'06 Silver DL1000
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