Eastern Beaver - Opinions Needed of my plan - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 5 Old 10-10-2012, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Eastern Beaver - Opinions Needed of my plan

Hi,

My birthday is coming up so I have decided to treat myself to some beaver goodness for my 2008 Vee. After spending a week or so planning everything out I am still left with some questions which I am hoping some of you may be able to help with.

I was originally planning on getting the PC8 fuse block but I am now thinking it might be a bit of overkill for me. I may be able to get away with the 3 Circuit Solution (3CS) and save nearly 50% off the price of the PC8, or possibly not even need any kind of switched fuse block. Here are the devices I need to power and how I am thinking of powering them:

a) Oxford heated grips - I am thinking I could just connect these to the stock heated grip connector near the radiator (using the Eastern Beaver connector), but the Eastern Beaver website says "The factory heated grip connector is not the best place to supply power to heated grips" which i find a little confusing seeing as thats exactly what its there for. Thoughts?

b) Datel Voltmeter - I am thinking I would connect this to the unswitched circuit of the 3CS and put a switch inline (inspired by Ozart's comments in this thread). Would connecting the voltmeter to the stock heated grip connector be viable or would it be less accurate due to sharing the cabling with heated grips ?

c) Eastern Beaver H4 Headlight relay kit - I was going to hook this up to one of the switched circuits on the 3CS but then the thought occurred to me that it is switched anyway (relays powered by stock headlight wiring unless I am misunderstanding how they work?) so I may as well get the battery terminal version and connect it straight to the battery and save myself a switched terminal. Is my thinking correct?

d) Power Socket(s) - Wired to a switched circuit on the 3CS to power a pump to inflate tyres and possibly a handlebar mounted one for phone charging/GPS (though these are not needed right now).

So really, with this plan I could conceivably not need a 3CS for anything other than the power socket(s) unless I am overlooking something? In fact, if I just use the aligator clamps that come with most electic pumps and clamp it directly to the battery when I need to use it, I wouldnt need the 3CS either.

Heated grips and volt meter connected to stock heated grip connector, H4 headlight kit wired directly to battery and hook the pump up to the battery when needed. Sound about right?

Also, I am assuming the Eastern Beaver fuse blocks do not come with fuses and I would need to purchase these separately?

Do you guys smear your battery terminals with vaseline or is there something superior I should use?

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post #2 of 5 Old 10-10-2012, 11:51 AM
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Item C-I'd connect directly to the battery as you outlined. I do not have a power control module but have the headlight adapter and ran it directly to the battery and it's been working great. For the other questions, I'd drop Jim a line and ask. I recall he's always been great at responding.

I have my GPS power line connected to the heated grip connector but if I ever expand to other devices I may use it to trigger the Power control adapter (what ever model).

Good Luck.

Rick
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post #3 of 5 Old 10-10-2012, 12:16 PM
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Jim likes it when information for decisions gets presented in places like this as his e-mail traffic gets pretty heavy. The kits, including a relay to turn the switched circuits on with the ignition, are at Suzuki VStrom Electrics.

Consider the possibility you may want to add another electrical device or three later. See this diagram for a better idea of how a fuse panel is wired. 85 and 86 power the relay's electromagnet that closes the contacts, flowing power between 87 and 30. Red is hot, black is ground and blue is the ignition on only hot trigger wire.


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Last edited by greywolf; 10-10-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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post #4 of 5 Old 10-10-2012, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strange Dog View Post
b) Datel Voltmeter - I am thinking I would connect this to the unswitched circuit of the 3CS and put a switch inline (inspired by Ozart's comments in this thread). Would connecting the voltmeter to the stock heated grip connector be viable or would it be less accurate due to sharing the cabling with heated grips ?
I have heard that this should be connected to wherever you want to measure. I.e. if you want to measure volts at the battery, connect it to the battery. If you want to measure volts at the fuseblock, connect it there. I see a volt meter as being used to make sure you're not taking more volts off the battery than you're putting in, < 12.5 I believe. Connecting the switching wire to something like the taillight ensures the voltmeter shuts off when the bike is off. I would not use a circuit on the 3CS for this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strange Dog View Post
d) Power Socket(s) - Wired to a switched circuit on the 3CS to power a pump to inflate tyres and possibly a handlebar mounted one for phone charging/GPS (though these are not needed right now).
This I recommend having unswitched. If you power a GPS from here, every time you shut off the bike your GPS will lose power. This means 1) you will be running the GPS from the batteries or 2) the GPS will shut off and you have to turn it back on again. I don't like either of those. It is such a small draw while I fill up that I'm not worried. If I go in to eat, the GPS comes off anyway so it doesn't matter.

I know that if I'm running something like a compressor, I should have the bike running, but just for a GPS or phone I don't have to. I recommend unswitched here.

As for hooking the pump up to the battery, you could but... it might be a pain in the butt. I know when I have a duffel bag on the rear rack, accessing the seat can be less than easy to do. I don't want to unstrap my cargo any more than I have to. Especially along side a road some where. With a power socket, you could just plug the pump in and not have to mess with the seat at all. I carry my tire repair stuff in a pannier as well. Just a thought.

ETA:
I see the Datel meter only has a 2 wire installation. I have not purchased this meter yet, but I plan to shortly. The meter below allows you to power your meter from a switched component, i.e. the taillight, while measuring the volts from another location, i.e. the battery.

This might be an option for you: http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hst...ter/Detail.bok

After reading about the Datel meter, you might want to put it on a switch somewhere to shut it off if you won't be riding for long.

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Last edited by WiredDriver; 10-10-2012 at 05:14 PM.
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post #5 of 5 Old 10-10-2012, 03:51 PM
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Personally I would not hook up the Datel to the heated grip connector if anything else will be sharing the circuit.
Every wire has a resistance and the more current you draw through it the more voltage is lost due to that resistance. That is known as voltage drop. Fewer connections are also better. That's why having your headlights wired to the battery with bigger wire makes them brighter than the stock way through the switch.
The grip connector wire isn't very big so if you have the volt meter attached there you will get different readings with the heated grips on and off. That difference will be in addition to the actual lower voltage that might be occurring due to the extra load on the electrical system so it might cause you to believe you're draining the battery when you're actually not.
If you want accurate battery voltage readings from the meter hook it up to the battery in such a way that nothing else shares its wires, whether it's through a relay or directly to the terminals. It doesn't draw much current so having it directly on the battery wouldn't drain it to nothing overnight but you might consider a switch (or the relay in the Eastern Beaver circuit) just to be able to disconnect it during long periods of not riding.
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