I'm working with a Vee, not Wee, so I don't know about the wire colors in the tail you need to connect to.
What my problem ended up being was a bad diode that is in the yellow wire coming from the mounting plate. I originally thought it was a bad splice, but found a diode when I opened the shrinkwrap. I have no real knowledge of components such as diodes or resistors so I took it to a biomedical engineer at work who tested it for me. It was definitely bad. Replaced it with what he told me I needed. I'm waiting for the green/blue sub-harness from Twisted Throttle to hook up my running/brake lights, but i'pretty sure everything will work OK.
On the Vee, the running light wire taps into the gray (switched power) and the brake goes to the white with black stripe, same as my hyperlites.
Hansong - thanks for trying to help.
First, I'm using an EB Tail connector. So instead of using the original gray/black-white, I have black (Ground), White (Running), Red (Brake) and blue/yellow (Turn Signals).
Of these I tested, as mentioned before, the Black/White/Red and there is correct power in these lines (~12V).
So I think that at least my problem has nothing to do with the bike type, since I get already 12V properly out of the bike.
[I assume that] Coocase as a generic top-case (i.e. not just built for Vee or Wee, etc.) expects 12V for inputs. Perhpas not directly on their yellow line, but through the yellow/green/blue harness, which I suspect have resistors.
They have a simplistic design with the same LED for both running and brake, so it is my understanding that to make the lights show up as regular (running) and strong (brake) they put resistors on the yellow/green/blue to limit the current differently between the lines.
As for the diode (haven't verified it yet - that it exists or that it is broken), it is a one-way only elements that when put in serial like they did limits polarity. I guess they did that to protect the top case from reverse polarity.
What I don't understand is why there is so much resistance on the yellow line.
I'll call TwistedThrottle tomorrow and ask for the support. If they can't help on the phone, I'll ask to get another working unit instead.
It could also be that the LEDs are not working, but I don't want to start opening up their sheath, or LEDs etc. I have warranty on this brand new case.
Really disappointed the low quality of the Coocase electronics - the whole input harness looks cheap, made of very thin lines and feels like a DIY kit.
Why isn't the whole current limiting solution in the protected black box, bt instead as tiny serial soldiered elements in an external thin line which is exposed to the elements?
I saw the Twisted Throttle demo, and two LEDs, though not working on my unit, seem to be hardly visible - not sure why Coocase didn't do it properly either. Can't they throw in 6/12 or even 24 LEDs and make it brighter. It is a safety feature - Strong running/brake lights are not there for entertainment purposes.
As a case it looks and works fine (mechanically).