How to split power cables 1-3? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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How to split power cables 1-3?

Hi,

I have too many unswitched (hot) devices connected to my battery terminals right now: GPS (I want it unswitched), battery tender, stebel and coming soon the coocase S50. 3 terminals on the battery work, 4 would not - they are too thick.

The EB solutions (PC-8 or 3CS) aren't really what I need as they mainly provide switched terminals and I want more unswitched terminals.

So I was thinking of this simple solution, please let me know if it makes sense and/or is safe:
Get posi-lock connectors (e.g. PTA1416 or PTA1218, need advice here) and then connect the narrow side (e.g. 16) of the posi-lock the single battery wire, and to the wider side (e.g. 14) 3 wires, therefore splitting 1 to 3.
This should take the load off the battery terminals.
Of course, each of the splitted wires is protected by its own fuse (just like it is today, I only want to solve the battery terminal crowding).

Any advice, idea, comment is welcome.

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2011 DL-650A, Now owned by another stromtrooper
-----------------------------------------------------
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Last edited by BigMan73; 06-03-2011 at 09:14 AM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMan73 View Post
Hi,

I have too many unswitched (hot) devices connected to my battery terminals right now: GPS (I want it unswitched), battery tender, stebel and coming soon the coocase S50. 3 terminals on the battery work, 4 would not - they are too thick.

The EB solutions (PC-8 or 3CS) aren't really what I need as they mainly provide switched terminals and I want more unswitched terminals.

So I was thinking of this simple solution, please let me know if it makes sense and/or is safe:
Get posi-lock connectors (e.g. PTA1416 or PTA1218, need advice here) and then connect the narrow side (e.g. 16) of the posi-lock the single battery wire, and to the wider side (e.g. 14) 3 wires, therefore splitting 1 to 3.
This should take the load off the battery terminals.
Of course, each of the splitted wires is protected by its own fuse (just like it is today, I only want to solve the battery terminal crowding).

Any advice, idea, comment is welcome.

The eastern beaver PC-8 uses an external relay. If you do not want to have them all switched, you can either skip the relay, or switch which power lead uses the relay amnd which is direct.

A fuse block is still the easiest solution to the "too many connectors at the battery terminal" problem IMO.

Alternatively, the Fuzeblock FZ-1 makes each circuit selectable as to whether it is switched or not.

04 blue wee
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post #3 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbdep View Post
The eastern beaver PC-8 uses an external relay. If you do not want to have them all switched, you can either skip the relay, or switch which power lead uses the relay amnd which is direct.

A fuse block is still the easiest solution to the "too many connectors at the battery terminal" problem IMO.

Alternatively, the Fuzeblock FZ-1 makes each circuit selectable as to whether it is switched or not.
Thanks for your comment.
PC-8 is designed to have hard wired 2 unswitched and 6 switched. This was the designer's decision as he wrote in the FAQ.
I do not want to workaround the relay - why buy it in the first place, then?

As for Fuzeblock FZ-1 - thanks for the tip. Looks very interesting. The only limitation is the Max 10A..doesn't really allow adding the Stebel.
But I can live with it for other devices like GPS and Coocase.
How does one change a circuit type from Constant to Switched?
EDIT: Found out how to do it. Really elegant and dynamic solution.

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Last edited by BigMan73; 06-03-2011 at 01:56 PM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 01:06 PM
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There is always the option of using longer bolts for the battery terminals.

Ron :mrgreen:
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post #5 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger Ron View Post
There is always the option of using longer bolts for the battery terminals.

Ron :mrgreen:
Actually, great idea!! I have no 'moral' problem of doing it.
Maybe I can buy a bit longer bolts in a hardware store, and cut them to fit.

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post #6 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Going with the longer bolt option.
Maybe someone (GreyWolf?) can advise:
What is the specification/name/thread size (not sure how to call it) of the battery bolt?
If I go to a hardware store and ask for a longer bolt, what would be the technical term for it?

I guess I can take the bolt with me and look for a similar longer one, just I might ending up with the wrong one and ruin the thread.

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post #7 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 03:00 PM
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It's a 6mm bolt. You still need to fuse each wire. A small fuse block would be neater.

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post #8 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
It's a 6mm bolt. You still need to fuse each wire. A small fuse block would be neater.
I knew you'd come to the rescue :-)

What small fuse block do you recommend?
An automotive one, similar to the one the v-strom has?

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2011 DL-650A, Now owned by another stromtrooper
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post #9 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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I found this BUSSMAN FUSES ATC FUSE BLOCK 4 POS 15600-04-20



The photo has 8 Positions, but I think 4 or 6 are enough for my needs.
Did you think of this kind of fuse block?

I guess the POS is obvious, but the NEG is the central silver pole (?)

2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2011 DL-650A, Now owned by another stromtrooper
-----------------------------------------------------
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post #10 of 17 Old 06-03-2011, 03:28 PM
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I put a small strip of plastic (piece of a wire tie) under the battery nuts to raise them up a bit, so now the stock battery bolt can grab a few threads. Just a thought.
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