Autocom power source? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-16-2008, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Autocom power source?

Finally a question I haven't seen addressed before;
Decided to wire in the Autocom rather than chew through batteries and like most recommendations was going to tap into the brake light.
BUT..The Autocom instructions and website advise caution on bikes equipped with ABS. They recommend getting approval from the bike's manufacturer.
Why would this be? I've had no response from Suzuki so far, and made a couple of other enquiries, (thanks again Kieth), but thought someone else here may have encountered this issue.
It would be nice to use one of the kits available that would tie neatly into the rear brake light connector to feed the Autocom, and maybe a future GPS, and, and, and....
Wiring isn't my speacialty to say the least, so Autocom's caution has me a bit spooked.

Thanks for any more insite anyone out there can provide.

Rob in T.O.
K7 DL650 ABS
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-16-2008, 09:34 AM
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I blame excessive lawyering...

Install a fuse block and run the autocom on its own circuit, as well as your future GPS etc. Then everything will be fine.

04 blue wee
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-16-2008, 09:38 AM
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any auxillary electrical accessories should be powered with an auxillary fuseblock that is powered by a relay instead of directly from the battery. you should also install an auxillary ground buss.

I am using a small Hella 6 gang fuesblock & Hella Micro relay, but there are intigrated fuesblock/relay boxes available, Bluesea seems to be the most common (my setup takes about 1/3 the space of a Blueseas setup)

I took my relay trigger power from the switched hot lead in the dealer test plug rather than hacking into the wire harness



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post #4 of 10 Old 07-17-2008, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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I suspect the lawyering angle explains a lot.
I understand the idea that it is best to install a fuseblock and subsequently be able to feed power to various accessories from that.
If I want to tap into a switched power source then it won't exactly on its own circuit though as sbdep suggests right?
Maybe I need to be lead by the nose a bit, so bear with me.
So if I understand correctly, I would take a lead right off the battery(?) and run it through a relay that is tied to a switched source. Then the power is on its own circuit, but the relay acts as a switch that allows power to get through to the fuse block when the bike is turned on. Also like the idea of using existing leads so that the wiring harness dosn't need to be hacked into. That sounds to me like what you've done RandyO
My brain already hurts.
Is the Bluesea a kind of "plug and play" solution that will keep me from melting everything? Space is at a premium of course, so maybe the Hella bits are the way to go. As long as whatever I get comes with some crude instructions, I think it could be figured it out.

Thanks for your input guys.

Rob in T.O.
K7 DL650 ABS
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-17-2008, 02:22 PM
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ABS interference

BMW caused a lot of the problem with ABS, the servo caused some kind of electrical interferance to be introduced into the brake light circuit. So everyone just said to stay away from it.
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-17-2008, 06:20 PM
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WeeRob

You are pretty much correct. Battery power to relay, relay is switched on/off usually by tail light and the power then goes to the fuse rail.

The Blue Seas install is very simple, have a look here Most people using these put them under the seat right near the battery.

Another style is called Fuzeblock This one is better in some ways as you have the choice of the ouputs being either switched or constant 12V. They are only new. that way if you want a cig outlet available without having ignition on, you just put a jumper in a different postion, very smart idea.

Cheers
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-19-2008, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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This info is just excellent. I feel like I've got a clearer picture of what is to happen now.

I'm guessing that if there is possible interference in the line supplying the brake light, it wouldn't affect anything if the brake light is only triggering the relay, because the power to the fuseblock is actually coming from a different source and should be "clean".

Now that this is more or less straight in my mind, I have to put it all aside for a bit. Will be on the road for a week or two, (as far as Philadelphia by way of Catskills and back to T.O.), and have to get back at it later.

Thanks to all for the suggestions, links and help.

Rob in T.O.
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-19-2008, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeRob View Post
This info is just excellent. I feel like I've got a clearer picture of what is to happen now.

I'm guessing that if there is possible interference in the line supplying the brake light, it wouldn't affect anything if the brake light is only triggering the relay, because the power to the fuseblock is actually coming from a different source and should be "clean".

Now that this is more or less straight in my mind, I have to put it all aside for a bit. Will be on the road for a week or two, (as far as Philadelphia by way of Catskills and back to T.O.), and have to get back at it later.

Thanks to all for the suggestions, links and help.
you don't want yo use the brakelite circuit, it would only trigger the relay when you apply brakes, but the rear running light circuit would work



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post #9 of 10 Old 07-19-2008, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeRob View Post
I suspect the lawyering angle explains a lot.
I understand the idea that it is best to install a fuseblock and subsequently be able to feed power to various accessories from that.
If I want to tap into a switched power source then it won't exactly on its own circuit though as sbdep suggests right?
Maybe I need to be lead by the nose a bit, so bear with me.
So if I understand correctly, I would take a lead right off the battery(?) and run it through a relay that is tied to a switched source. Then the power is on its own circuit, but the relay acts as a switch that allows power to get through to the fuse block when the bike is turned on. Also like the idea of using existing leads so that the wiring harness dosn't need to be hacked into. That sounds to me like what you've done RandyO
My brain already hurts.
Is the Bluesea a kind of "plug and play" solution that will keep me from melting everything? Space is at a premium of course, so maybe the Hella bits are the way to go. As long as whatever I get comes with some crude instructions, I think it could be figured it out.

Thanks for your input guys.
You've got the idea here. If you want plug and play, I think EasternBeaver has a nice wiring setup you can use to tap into one of the bike's circuits to drive the fuse box.

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...om/vstrom.html
The owner (JimDavs) is a member of the forum and seems to have good products and good reviews from other members here.

04 blue wee
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-21-2008, 10:28 AM
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Thumbs up Wiring and the Autocom

Give me a call, I sell Autocom and would be more than happy to advise you free of charge. We also mfg custom wiring harnesses and sell Centech power distribution blocks to members of this forum at a discount. I ride a 650 DL and previously put 30,000 mles on a 03 DL1000 . [email protected] 918-446-2245
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