another Electrical - Greywoolf, you out there? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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another Electrical - Greywoolf, you out there?

Progress on electronics is proceeding well
so far:

Removed the unneeded AM/FM/WB radio.
Removed idiot LED voltage display
Installed EB H4 Headlight relay
Installed Adventuretech access. shelf
Installed Datel Voltage Display in Adv shelf
Installed Advtech Dual USB weatherproof plug in Advtech shelf
Installed Advtech weatherproof cigarette style plug in Advtech shelf

Now for a question. I have contacted EB but received no response so work is on hold. Everything is powered thru Centech AP-1 Panel that is hot all the time (No Relay). This the way the PO had the bike wired. I do have the 30A PC-8/Centech AP-2 Relay Kit for VStrom (no fuse panel). It would probably be better if the whole panel is switched so -- can this kit be installed directly to the existing installed AP-1 panel as a direct replacement for the existing direct wiring to the battery?

2013 Yamaha WR250R
2009 V-Strom 650DL-ABS
2015 Can Am Spyder RTS LTD SE6
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Sold
2010 Aspen Sentry Camping Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
1997 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Still another question.

The EB Relay on the EB fuse panel kit is to be hooked up using the white plug on the blue wiring = to the tail light wiring. This said, on my 09 Wee I do see a white plug buried under the H2O reservoir which I cannot get too. I see a similar white plug running between the frame and outside plastics just outboard & in front of the battery mounting bolt on the left side (while sitting on the bike). Could this white plug be the rear tail light plug? there is another relay mounted on the bike for the Touratech Rally computer but it has a wire tapping directly into the tail light wiring.

Sooooo confusing!!

2013 Yamaha WR250R
2009 V-Strom 650DL-ABS
2015 Can Am Spyder RTS LTD SE6
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Sold
2010 Aspen Sentry Camping Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
1997 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 05:24 PM
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I would think any automotive 12V 30A relay could be used. The Centec relay kits I'm familiar with are the same for the AP1 and AP2-- they are external between the battery and the panel. You could use anything that meets the current and switching voltage requirements.
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 05:36 PM
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It looks like you can use the ground and power connectors on the PC8 wiring kit by cutting off the longer battery connector. That will switch all the AP-1 attachments off with the ignition.

You can get to the connector under coolant reservoir if you remove the fuel tank. Fuel Tank Removal How to, 650 & 1000

You could also cut the adapter end off the switching lead and use a Posi-Tap to connect the switching lead to any good trigger wire. See #3 at Basic V-Strom Wiring 101

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Greywolf

What was the longer Red wire for? Any Idea?

So, instead of removing the tank, I could use the wire that is now tapping into the white wire of the rear tail light with a positap?

Do I need to go directly to the white wire or can I use the Positap and simply tap into the "tapping wire" already connected. It would be very easy to get to the wire instead of going all the way back to the white tail light wire.

To make myself clear, thanks for all your wisdom! If something goes wrong, I will in no way hold you responsible.
Thanks
Larry

2013 Yamaha WR250R
2009 V-Strom 650DL-ABS
2015 Can Am Spyder RTS LTD SE6
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Sold
2010 Aspen Sentry Camping Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
1997 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 07:26 PM
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The longer red wire is for the two fuses on th PC8 that are always on, not switched. The white wire is not stock so I don't know what it does. If it is on with the ignition, you can use it.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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The white wire I am referring to is part of the OEM rear light on my 09 Wee.

2013 Yamaha WR250R
2009 V-Strom 650DL-ABS
2015 Can Am Spyder RTS LTD SE6
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Sold
2010 Aspen Sentry Camping Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
1997 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-30-2014, 09:23 PM
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Nope. There is a white wire with a black stripe that is for ther brake light. You can't use that. There is a gray wire for the tail and license lights. You can use that.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-31-2014, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry

On closer examination it is a light grey wire. A wire tapping into it comes from up front and runs beside the battery so I will positap into that wire at that location for trigger.

Thanks

2013 Yamaha WR250R
2009 V-Strom 650DL-ABS
2015 Can Am Spyder RTS LTD SE6
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Sold
2010 Aspen Sentry Camping Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
1997 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-31-2014, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Greywolf

I have decided to remove the tank. I followed all the instructions and found the remove the tank instructions it says nothing of this tube on the right side?? Do I simply slip it off? It looks as though it goes to a canister of some type. Maybe evaporative fuel canister of some type.
[IMG][/IMG]

Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
It looks like you can use the ground and power connectors on the PC8 wiring kit by cutting off the longer battery connector. That will switch all the AP-1 attachments off with the ignition.

You can get to the connector under coolant reservoir if you remove the fuel tank. Fuel Tank Removal How to, 650 & 1000

You could also cut the adapter end off the switching lead and use a Posi-Tap to connect the switching lead to any good trigger wire. See #3 at Basic V-Strom Wiring 101

2013 Yamaha WR250R
2009 V-Strom 650DL-ABS
2015 Can Am Spyder RTS LTD SE6
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Sold
2010 Aspen Sentry Camping Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
1997 Honda 750 Nighthawk - Sold
bmwlarry is offline  
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