Heated liner watts - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Heated liner watts

Need help deciding between Warm n Safe 65 or 90 watt liner.
I will be using Symtec heated grips, gps, voltmeter, Rider classic heated gloves with a remote dual controller(gloves and liner), and stock lighting with eastern beaver relays.
I am thinking the lower wattage would be easier on my stator.
The heattroller would be dumping less watts less often due to using a higher setting with the 65.
I may be mistaken but I understand that a heattroller with a 90 watt load @ 50% draws 90 watts for 1/2 second then 0 watts for 1/2 second, rather than 45 watts.
Does the rectifier even out this pulsing over time or is the system constantly on an inrush/collapse seesaw and is that what burns stators?

Also, the waterproof liner is only available at 90 watts and I have been considering that might be what I want.
I like to keep above 32f in general but on a trip I need to be covered for the unexpected. Thanks

06 dl650
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 12:05 PM
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I have the warm and safe 90 and the ultimate touring gloves. The liner rarely gets turned on. When I turn it on it's at about 25%. I wear it under a jacket with insation liner. It's just enough to keep my core warm. On the other hand I run my oxfords at the second setting and my gloves are almost always near full blast.

I don't see dimming in my headlight at idle.

I run a lithium iron battery. Your battery acts like a capacitor so your stator doesn't bounce when loads change.

I am running close to you same setup otherwise.

I just got a pc8 and when I install it I'm going to put in a volt meter and a brake cutout to the heated gear.


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post #3 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 12:38 PM
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Do you need heated grips and heated gloves? I don't. The gloves work great for me.

What layer will you wear over the heated liner? A very warm, thin layer like a Primaloft coat or a thin down sweater, even thick fleece, greatly reduces the heat controller setting and the electricity used. Keep your head warm with a thin fleece or wool helmet liner or balaclava. The body sends warm blood to maintain the brain and core organs while depriving the extremities of warmth if necessary.

The heat controller doesn't dump electricity. It rapidly switches on and off, must faster than a half-second for the ones I've used. Yes, your assumption about 100% draw then zero draw for time periods is correct--longer on & shorter off at high settings, shorter on & longer off at low settings. Your battery, any type of battery, buffers the power draw. The lithium iron phosphate batteries (Shorai) are smaller and lighter, may live longer, self-discharge more slowly, but not sure that they're worth their cost, $125-$160.

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Last edited by PTRider; 01-08-2014 at 12:45 PM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 01:24 PM
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The stator is least taxed when the regulator is not shunting any power back into it. A 65W liner isn't going to be easier on the stator. The stator is going to run hotter when you aren't using heated gear.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-14-2014, 09:57 PM
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I have both heated liners and Oxford heated grips.

This is what I found out:
+ Heated liners burnt my hands because the tighter they fit, the closer the hot wires to my skin. They keep my hands toasty warm, I would say in 30s F.
+ Heated grips is better for weather changes in the sudden, but top of your hands still get cold because the heat came from the grips.




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post #6 of 12 Old 01-14-2014, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue Reaper View Post
On the other hand I run my oxfords at the second setting and my gloves are almost always near full blast.
Nice turn of phrase.

I need me some heated gloves, I know I'd use them.

Since I bought a bike with a voltmeter, I can now say, you might want to install one if you are using heated gear.

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-15-2014, 02:28 AM
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I have a volt meter on my Garmin and when using the Oxford grips and the Gerbing up high the voltage drops to 112 and less. If you turn the controller down a little the voltage jumps back to 14.1. So at full heat the accessories will tax the system but at less than full heat the system seems to work fine.
I've got an 04 Wee with 65K miles on the original set up.
I did notice the headlights flickering with the heat pulses of the Gerbing when doing the predawn ride up the mountain on Sunday.
Maybe this is a good time to mention that Eastern Beaver sells stuff to make this less of a problem!
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-15-2014, 08:01 AM
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I did notice the headlights flickering with the heat pulses of the Gerbing when doing the predawn ride up the mountain on Sunday.
Maybe this is a good time to mention that Eastern Beaver sells stuff to make this less of a problem!
HID lights will not flicker and use a fraction of the power than the stock setup.

Be forwarned: It is not a simple installation nor are they without reliability issues.

A kill switch on one of the headlights will shift some capacity, too.

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post #9 of 12 Old 02-04-2014, 08:49 PM
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Unplug

When I running heated grips, gloves, jacket liner, gps and radar detector I reach under the front dash and unplug one of the headlights. Gives me enough wattage for all of them. this is true for both my 06 Wee and 05 V.

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post #10 of 12 Old 02-04-2014, 09:19 PM
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I run a 65w warm n safe liner with firstgear heated gloves. I ended up with a liner a size larger than I should have. With the jacket liner and gloves on the same controller the gloves run much warmer than the jacket. I haven't used a 90w liner nor one that fits better so I'm not sure how much different it would be.

It seems like the best answer is to get the 90w - you can always turn it down but there is no turning up a 65w if it doesn't get warm enough for you.

Theory aside, its hard to believe a 90 or a 65 would be any different to the regulator life given that the 25 watt difference is a small percentage of the total output.

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