Fitting a 12V accessory outlet - best options - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 38 Old 08-06-2013, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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Fitting a 12V accessory outlet - best options

OK need to fit a 12V outlet to power phone / GPS etc.

Whats my best option for fitting it?

Direct to battery with switch and fuse on line?
Slice into driving light circuit behind headlights?
Slice into ignition (not really up for this)

Thoughts / Comments / Advice?
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post #2 of 38 Old 08-06-2013, 04:59 AM
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I wired it into my Eastern Beaver PC8 which provides 8 circuits (2 unswitched, 6 switched). But that would be a pricey option if you don't have to power many gadgets.

Eastern Beaver also make a cheaper "3-Circuit Solution" which might be more up your alley.

Both of the options I have described come with a connector that you simply plug into the existing tail-light connectors near the base of the tank which cuts off the power when the ignition is off and are also fused.

Then there is the option of rigging up your own automotive relay if you are into that kind of thing.

Personally I don't like the idea of having un-switched power sources on my bike, as I imagine someone jamming some metallic object in there while the bike is parked, but I am pretty paranoid (but only coz everyone is out to get me).

[URL=http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/dl650_v-strom/2011/strangedog/493573][IMG]http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/493573.png[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/dl650_v-strom/2006/strangedog/401455][IMG]http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/401455.png[/IMG][/URL]
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post #3 of 38 Old 08-06-2013, 11:31 AM
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I just put a relay set up on the other bike because when I forgot to turn off the GPS or the running lights I'd run down the battery with them connected directly to the battery.
Relay kits are great but be sure to fuse all your components properly...as close to the power source as possible.
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post #4 of 38 Old 08-07-2013, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Found this searching online...very helpful

Basic Strom Wiring 101 (DL1000 & DL650)

1. Most wires that are solid Orange or Orange with a color strip is a Switched 12 Volt wire. However, there are a few Orange with stripe wires you do not what to use. Stay away from the Orange/White, Orange/Black & Orange/Red wires, these are still switched power but not ones to mess with. Switched 12 Volt means the wire is HOT when the key is ON. The reason for using switched power to power accessories, is if an accessory is left on unintentionally it won't drain your battery.

2. Any wire that is Black with a White strip is a Ground wire. You will find many small rectangular connectors with 5 or 6 Black/White wires running into them around the bike. These are ground connection terminals and do not plug into anything. Dont use these as grounding points for accessories. Photos: DL1000 Grounding Blocks

3. Best places to obtain Switched 12 Volt power for an Auxiliary Fuse Block Relay.

A. Tail Light wire. This is the Brown wire running in the tail harness along the left rear subframe. After the tail harness connector (located at the rear of the subframe) it is the Graywire. Note: This wire is HOT when the key is in the PARK or ON position. This is good to use if you what to run accessories without having the ignition & lights on. But, if in park for an emergency and using emergency flashers your accessories will be energized. This is my favorite, but I also install a small underseat switch to disable the aux box when desired. Brown wire also avail under fuse box 05 & up 1000 & all 650. Eastern Beaver Kit.

B. OEM heated grip connector. Located behind radiator on left side & usually taped to the main harness. A Black connector with 2 wires going to it. Orange/Green wire is Swithed Hot and Black/White is Ground. If you do not want to cut this connector, then order Suzuki part no. 36852-06G00 (~ $11). This is the horn lead wire and the connector will mate. Eastern Beaver Kit.

C. Rear Brake Light Switch wire. Located just forward of the battery. A small clear white 2 wire connector, one Orange/Green & one White/Black. Orange/Green wire is switched Hot, no ground wire available here. Eastern Beaver Kit.

D. Instrument Panel Power wires. Located inside left side cowling in wire pocket. Must remove cowling panel and strip part of harness cover off for wire access. The Orange/Green wire is switched & the red/white wire is full time power.

E. Any of the Orange (or striped Orange) wires under the OEM fuse box. You can just detach and pull the fuse box up to gain access. The Brown tail light wire is also here on 05 & up 1000 & all 650.

4. Tail Section wire colors. First listed color will be as it is in the tail harness running along the left rear subframe. The Second color is after the connector located at the rear end of the subframe (this is the part that actually connects to the lights).

A. Tail Light Brown & then Gray
B. Stop Light White/Black & then White/Black
C. Left Turn Black & then Black
D. Right Turn Light Green & then Light Green
E. License - Brown & then Gray (Same as Tail)
F. Ground - Black/White & then Black/White

5. Headlight Wires. First color listed is as they are after the fuse and in the forward section. The second color is from the handlebar switch to the fuse.

A. High Beam - Yellow from fuse to light. Yellow/Blue from switch to fuse.
B. Low Beam - Black/Blue from fuse to light. White/Blue from switch to fuse.

6. Other wires that may be of use.

A. Tachometer signal Brown/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control or Datatool Digi Gear).
B. Speed signal from Speed Sensor Pink/White wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control, Pro Oiler or Datatool Digi Gear).
C. Blinker signal (power) to control switch. Light Blue wire located under OEM fuse box.
D. Gear Position Sensor signal (going to ECU) Pink wire in 3 wire connector just forward of fuse box on the 1000 & behind the left main frame above foot peg on 650.
E. Neutral Light Signal - Blue/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Datatool Digi Gear).


7. Grounding point for accessories. All ground leads should run back to the battery negative terminal. Either directly or through an Aux Grounding block or Aux Fuse Block that also contains grounding terminals. The Ground Block, whichever kind, should be connected to the battery negative terminal with a 10 gage or 12 gage wire. One last method for a ground buss if you dont wish to use blocks, is to have a short 10 gage lead running from the battery to which you solder all of the smaller ground leads from accessories and cover with tape or shrink tubing.

8. How to install a Manual Fan Override switch. Attach a 2 position (On/Off) toggle or rocker switch across the 2 wires running into the thermostatic fan switch (both Black/Red), located on the rear-right side of the radiator. Do not cut wires from the thermostatic switch or the auto fan mode will be disabled.

9. Wiring Auxiliary Driving lights. Most come with a lighting relay and a relay must be used. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. An On/Off switch, High beam, Low beam or switched power on (not recommended) may latch the relay. Hot lead must be fused when coming directly from the battery or fused through an Aux fuse box.
Related thread: Driving Light Wiring with Auto Hi-Beam ON - 101

10. Wiring Auxiliary Horns. It is highly recommended to use a horn or lighting relay for power to the horns. This relay should be latched using the wires that feed the OEM horn. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. Hot lead must be fused when coming directly from the battery or fused through an Aux fuse box. The popular Stebel air horn requires a 15 amp fuse.
Related thread: Aux Horn Wiring - 101

11. Strom Wattage Available. This is at 5000 RPM, at idle and slow speeds, considerably less.

02 DL1000 = (350 watts) ~95 watts to play with
03 & Up DL1000 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with
04-07 DL650 = (375 watts) ~ 120 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
08 & Up DL650 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
02 DL1000 with 05 SV1000 engine & HID headlights & LED's ~ 190 to play with

12. Fuse Sizing for auxiliary equipment. A device is fused properly when the fuse rating is 150% of the max the fused device will draw. Example: Vest using 45 watts: I=P/E; I=45/12.5=3.6 amps. So 150% = 5.4 amps, a 5 amp fuse should be close enough. A lot of devices have an initial surge startup current that is higher than their steady state draw. Also a fuse that is operated very close to it's rated value can heat up over time and blow.

13. Connector & wire connections.

A. Connectors. The best way to connect wires to pins for inserting into connector plugs & sockets is to use the correct crimper for the pins you are using. This is an inexpensive CRIMPER that works for about 95% of the pins out there. Pins can also be soldered if you use the proper equipment and techniques. Incorrect technique can result in broken wires. For most of the people out there it is best to crimp. Crimp style spade lugs for wires are fine as long as they are crimped & sized properly.

B. Connecting wires. I do not recommend any crimp style connections for wires, except spade lug terminals for power blocks. Especially the crimp on wire splices. These wire splices will cut some strains of the wire and let the contaminates in. Wire connections & splices that are soldered and covered with either shrink tubing or a good grade of electrical tape, such as 3M Super 33+, will stand up to the weather and vibrations many times longer then crimp style connectors. Soldered connections will also produce a cleaner (as in not electrical noisy) electrical connection with less voltage drop. This is a good HOW TO SOLDER web site. It doesn't talk about wiring here but the technique is the same. If you can't solder I highly recommend Posi-Lock Connectors , avail at Walmart & auto stores.

C. The use of dielectric grease on all non water-resistant connectors is recommended.

14. Wire sizing: Wire Sizing (Amp Capacity)
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post #5 of 38 Old 08-07-2013, 10:13 AM
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That's copied directly from VSRI. At least posting a link too does give some credit.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

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post #6 of 38 Old 08-07-2013, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
That's copied directly from VSRI. At least posting a link too does give some credit.
is it ok posting link and text ??

I think it's a very helpful post and thought I should share
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post #7 of 38 Old 08-07-2013, 10:49 AM
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I wired a cigarette lighter style outlet directly to the battery, with a fuse in line. It cost me about $20 for all of the bits, and it is removable later. It fits under the seat, or can be pulled out a bit if needed. I wanted mine to be able to be on without the ignition on as I use it to blow up mattresses when camping, charge up the helmet SENA headset, and charge I the phone when riding.

I will try to post a pic of it here:



It does fit in neater when I want it to, but this was to show others what can be done in an afternoon.

2011 Weestrom x2
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post #8 of 38 Old 08-07-2013, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCSF View Post
is it ok posting link and text ??

I think it's a very helpful post and thought I should share
My preference is to just post the link. John Weldon, the owner of VSRI, has given me permission to use anything at VSRI here so it's not a copyright violation. VSRI is a great resource though and I like getting people to look there. It is so well laid out for people looking for information that it gets far fewer posts than here which is a bit of a shame.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

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post #9 of 38 Old 10-15-2013, 12:24 PM
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This is a very helpful thread, as I'm starting to think about powering the wife's Nvi and the cell phone charger (and eventually, the relay for the Stebel horn I want). A quick question:

The OEM heated grip connector, located behind radiator on left side... assuming I can find this, and order the matching Suzuki connector...

1. Will this circuit support the current draw? Neither the Nvi nor the cell phone charger can draw that much current, and the Stebel will use a reasonably low-current relay. Concerns?

2. That Suzuki part... will it come with leads? If no, what tools/skills will I need to attach some?

Thanks in advance...
MRV

---2016 FJR1300 ES.
---Previous bikes: 1970 Honda CB100; 1972 CB175; 1973 CB350; 1975 CB550; 1977 CB750; 1978 Yamaha 750 Triple; 1980 Goldwing; in and out of the sport on an FT500 Ascot and an assortment of 1980s four-cylinder Hondas in the late 80s and early 90s; 1995 Honda 750 Nighthawk; 1999 Suzuki SV650; 2002 Honda 750 Nighthawk; 2012 DL1000 V-Strom; 2010 FJR; 2014 Yamaha Super Tnr ES.
---IBA #56124. Two SS1Ks, one BB1500, one BBG; placed 9th in MERA's 2014 Five & Dime 5-day rally (solo class).
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post #10 of 38 Old 10-15-2013, 12:50 PM
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The Suzuki horn lead that fits the OEM heated grip connector has a pair of 1/4" spade connectors on the other end and has no involvement with the horn in that capacity. You can use the spades or cut them off to use the wires. There is more than enough power for a GPS and phone. Make sure the polarity is correct.

The horn relay is connected to the stock horn wires already on the bike. The wires to the stock horn are connected to terminals 85 and 86 on the horn relay. Pushing the horn button will throw the relay. Polarity doesn't matter there.

Regarding the power wires for the Stebel:
The positive wire on the Stebel and the positive wire from the battery or fuse block are connected to terminals 87 and 30 on the horn relay. Again, which of the two positive wires get connected to which of the two terminals doesn't matter. If connecting to the battery positive, use a wire with an inline fuse.

The negative wire from the Stebel is connected to the negative battery post or fuse block. The negative and positive power wires should be a minimum of 14ga and the positive run off a 20A fuse.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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