PC-8, H4 Relay Kit, and other EB kit parts - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 22 Old 05-19-2013, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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PC-8, H4 Relay Kit, and other EB kit parts

I know Eastern Beaver has been talked to death. I've read as much as I can find on it. I still have questions that need attention.

So here goes...

I'm going to order all the necessary parts I need from Eastern Beaver (with the H4 relay kit the most important).
The PC-8 fuse panel will be ordered as well. The longer I ride without the H4 relay the more I fear frying the electrics.

I know little to nothing about electrical, so I'll need some help figuring out what I need from EB.

I understand the PC-8 system, because I want to eventually add a GPS unit, run electrical to charge my cell phone,
possibly some heated gloves and vest, electrify my tank bag, run the tire pump, etc.

What is confusing to me is which H4 relay kit to get. I'm pretty sure I want the one with the headlight cutout.
Is it the one that's called the "H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit with One Headlight Cut Adapter Built in"?

Then there is the "H4 Headlight Cut Adapter". Is this the same thing that is "built-in" to the above mentioned?

There is also the "Heavy Duty Disconnector Option" for easier fairing removal. Need that too?

What else will I need to put this all together? Toggle or Rocker switch kit? Connectors?

VStrom


I am admittedly confused about this, and just want to get the right parts before I order then realize I made a mistake.

.

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post #2 of 22 Old 05-19-2013, 10:49 PM
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I question why you would want the headlight disconnect. This spring I added heated clothing to my wardrobe, a tourmaster jacket liner and a set of powerlett heated glove liners. My bike also has dual led lights (very bright) always on at 40% power, oxford heated grips and a USB port for my Garmin Nuvi 550. On a several hour ride at 3 degrees C. (37 degrees F) this spring, my voltmeter never when below 13.2 volts while cruising. With the idiots on the roads these days, I want two headlights at the front!!
BTW, my bike is a 2010 Wee with a PC8, H4 relay set (no disconnect) and loud horns. EB is a class act.

Last edited by TOScootz; 05-19-2013 at 10:51 PM.
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post #3 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 08:02 AM
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The beauty of the EB stuff for the Strom is it is basically plug n' play... The most you'll have t remove (or half remove as in loosen) is one side panel... This is in order to route the H4 wires (or any other electrical acc wires you also add) back to the PC-8 box... This assuming you chose to locate the PC 8 in the storage tray behind your battery.... You shouldn't have any trouble once you have the items in front of you... It should make sense then...

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post #4 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOScootz View Post
I question why you would want the headlight disconnect. This spring I added heated clothing to my wardrobe, a tourmaster jacket liner and a set of powerlett heated glove liners. My bike also has dual led lights (very bright) always on at 40% power, oxford heated grips and a USB port for my Garmin Nuvi 550. On a several hour ride at 3 degrees C. (37 degrees F) this spring, my voltmeter never when below 13.2 volts while cruising. With the idiots on the roads these days, I want two headlights at the front!!
BTW, my bike is a 2010 Wee with a PC8, H4 relay set (no disconnect) and loud horns. EB is a class act.

That IS a good question, and one I thought about before posting this thread. I really didn't want to cut a headlight. Like you said, we need all the lighting for the road-dolts. But then decided I'd be willing to save wattage. Jim noted that with one headlight cut the system would save 55-60 watts of power.

At least one Stromtrooper (GW) has a headlight cut off switch, and with his vast knowledge I thought it would be wise to take his idea and go with it.

But, if you are able to run all those devices with a PC-8 and the H4 relay kit (sans cut-off's) then I think I will go that route. If I choose to get ballsy later on (I doubt it lol) I could always send for the cut off switch system.

I could also save the money from the cut-off and use it to get handlebar wiring extensions. I'm thinking about getting taller bars to go with the up-and-back risers that are on the bike now.

TOScootz, thanks for the ideas and suggestions. Much appreciated!

.

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post #5 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianFZ6 View Post
The beauty of the EB stuff for the Strom is it is basically plug n' play... The most you'll have t remove (or half remove as in loosen) is one side panel... This is in order to route the H4 wires (or any other electrical acc wires you also add) back to the PC-8 box... This assuming you chose to locate the PC 8 in the storage tray behind your battery.... You shouldn't have any trouble once you have the items in front of you... It should make sense then...

Yes, the idea is to install the PC-8 somewhere next to the battery.

I'll do my best to get it installed by my lonesome. If I do have any trouble I will be sure to get the help from the best, right here.

Thanks a lot, CanadianFZ6!

.

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post #6 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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I'm just about ready to order the parts. I do need to know if I should order this part.

It's a Heavy Duty Disconnector. Listed directly under the H4 relay kit.

" Heavy Duty Disconnector Option

This feature is now an option with all my Headlight Relay Kits, using the heavy duty MetriPack 280 connector on the main leads 6” (15 cm) before the relays. This allows easy disconnection for fairing removal, etc. This option can’t be ordered alone, but only with a Headlight Relay Kit. NOT for fusepanel Kits. This price includes installation. You can get the connector only here.
"


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post #7 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 10:09 PM
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Having a disconnect allows easy fairing removal. Otherwise, the fairing is pretty much tethered to the bike. The reason I have a headlight cutout is I ride with the following heated items - jacket liner, grips, gloves, pant liner and boot soles. I need to cut out a headlight when going to lunch in Wisconsin in below freezing weather. It's a bit over 2 hours round trip.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #8 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Having a disconnect allows easy fairing removal. Otherwise, the fairing is pretty much tethered to the bike. The reason I have a headlight cutout is I ride with the following heated items - jacket liner, grips, gloves, pant liner and boot soles. I need to cut out a headlight when going to lunch in Wisconsin in below freezing weather. It's a bit over 2 hours round trip.

That's a lot of electric gear! And understandably so!

Alright. Sounds like I may have the (short) list complete.

PC-8 fuse panel
H4 dual headlight relay kit (no cut off)
Heavy duty disconnect.


Thanks GW!

.

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post #9 of 22 Old 05-20-2013, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered! Woohoo!

Thanks for your help everyone!

:smilewinkgrin:

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post #10 of 22 Old 05-30-2013, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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I received the PC-8 fuse panel, H4 headlight relay kit, and the dis-connector from EB.

Reading the instructions on the EB site, I'm starting to understand how it goes together.

The PC-8 install instructions say to hook it to the battery leads. The H4 headlight relay says the same thing.

Do I fasten both PC-8 and H4 relay to the battery?

H4: I'm doing the Coupler Option, right?

Installation

PC-8: I won't have anything to hook up to the PC-8 yet. I should still set it up like I have accessories to install?

Installation


Told you I'm a rookie at this!








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Last edited by 6:45 Orange Sunrise; 05-30-2013 at 11:01 PM.
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