I'm getting sonic springs for the front (1.0, and about $80), but don't plan other options yet on that end of the bike. I may go with emulators at some point, but we'll see how the $80 fix works on the front (and play around with oil weights). I replaced the OEM springs with progressive springs from Progressive Suspension (got them really cheap, so figured it was worth trying over OEM springs). Although they are better than OEM, still not loving them - seem to dive a bit under braking and a bit harsh on things like speed bumps and potholes (as the spring rate ramps up, and I don't use full travel). So going to try linear instead of progressive on the front.
On the rear, I'm considering going with a full rebuild and valving by Racetech on my oem shock (about $450), versus buying something aftermarket ($800+).
I've talked to the Racetech tech guy (terry), and figure given their experience with revalving the oem shocks AND making it reserviceable is compelling. Terry figures with one of their rebuilds, you can can 20k miles before needing another versus 5k or so with the OEM. I hear there was a guy with Sasquatch Suspension in Idaho that could do similar things, but he seems to be out of business (although many seemed to have been happy with his work).
I had considered either 1) just gettting a stiffer spring for my current shock, or 2) looking into getting a 2012 Glee shock. But my current shock doesn't seem to have great rebound damping at max (doesn't come up either very slowly or stay down) so think the damping would be overwhelmed with a stiffer spring only, and I can't find the spring rate on the 2012, so am hesitant to get a shock that may or may not need a new spring anyway.
But tomorrow is another day, and I might change my mind...or maybe find a screaming deal on an aftermarket shock in the "for sale" forum. Recently saw an Ohlins that would have been good for my size, but was too late. C'est la vie.
Anyhow, after blathering on for a bit in this post :lol: , I've found in my mtn biking experience (and downhill mtn bikes are not that difference that motorcycles...at least not unlike dirt bikes), it's best to match the quality of the front and rear suspension to get the best performance. If you go cheap on one end, it'll impact the perform of the bike overall. And the tuning of the suspension is the most important thing, without a doubt. Better to have well tuned unsophisticated suspension, then top of the line stuff that hasn't been properly adjusted. Start with the right sag everytime with the correct preload (and spring if you can't get the right sag). Then you can experiment from there going from one extreme to another on the adjustments for preload and compression. Take notes if you really want to dial it in, or go to a suspension specialty shop and pay them for their expertise (local racers can tell you who's good in your area).