Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Tg, unless the manual specifically calls for indexing the holes, their orientation is not an issue at all. Of all the forks Ive rebuilt Ive never had that come up as an issue.
When I replace fork seals, I always replace the fork bushings as well. They're inexpensive, , take the wear/slop out of the fork, and prolong the life of the seals. There is also a piston ring in the assembly of your '08 DL650 fork. I'd replace that also along with the upper cap o-ring and lower tube gasket.
The parts diagram shows a preload adjusting screw in the cap, and before I take a fork off the bike I measure static sag. Once apart I measure spring free length, and if out of spec replace the spring and/or make up a preload spacer accordingly. Motion-Pro makes a fork fluid level tool that takes the mess and time out of setting fork oil level. Inexpensive, and instead of the supplied syringe, I connect it to my air-powered brake bleeder. 10 seconds or less and you have the correct fluid level every time.
Last edited by MAZ4ME; 08-23-2018 at 03:50 AM.