HF tire mount w/ Shinko 705 problem - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 03-31-2018, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
Junior Trooper
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 4
HF tire mount w/ Shinko 705 problem

It's time to replace my rear Shinko 705 (over 10k miles, probably still has another 1k but I picked up a nail)

So I decided to try and change my own tires for the first time. After reading the thousands of threads on the HF tire change chassis, and seeing how easy the various you-tubers did it, I bought the sucker; made it a nice stable wood stand and went to work.

I got the old tire off with a minimal amount of fuss. Plop the new one on, got the first bead on with no issues, but the second bead is killing me. Using two 24" tire irons plus the red bar that comes with the kit (and a second person!) but the last 12 inches or so of tire to get onto the rim seems impossible.

I tried to do the "use the center pole for leverage and slide the red bar around" but it gets to a point where it just won't budge.
I've tried using the irons to slowly work my way around (from both sides and just working one side,) but even then the rubber on the tire feels like it's stretch so tight I can't push the irons in between the tire and the rim.
AAAand finally I tried pushing the red bar into the center of the unseated mass and muscling it, but even with all my weight behind it I can't get it to budge. After several hours I just gave up.

I've read a few posts of people saying the 705's were the easiest tire change they've ever done. I've also read a few of people saying the hard sidewalls of most ADV tires makes it a nightmare. Being as this is my first try I feel like I'm clearly missing something, but everything I've tried about or seen in a video has failed.

What am I doing wrong here?!?
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-31-2018, 11:47 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: north east, Buffalo NY area
Posts: 2,522
You need a good lubricant like NoMar or https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds!

The tire should be as warm as possible. Not sure where you are located but it makes a big difference. Heat it up somehow without burning it.

While mounting you MUST MAKE SURE that the opposite (to where you are trying to mount over the edge of the rim) side of the tire is all the way in the valley of the rim over as long a fraction of the circumference as possible. If it's not in there you won't succeed! A warm tire makes the tire more pliable and easier to push down. Consider getting that yellow thing. It make a world of difference to keep the tire pushed down into the valley and equals a 3rd hand. Also get 3 or 4 wood blocks, about an 3/4 to 1 inch thick to push between the tire and the rim edge to help pushing the tire edge down on the opposite side where you are mounting.

A good tire mounting bar works better than the HF bar I think. Look at his website, he has very good tutorials.

Finally use a ratchet strap to fasten the rim to the HF changer so it won't pop out or slide in the clamps.

Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-31-2018, 11:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Gateway to Death Valley
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The tire opposite the area your trying to get on the rim has to be down in the center of the rim. That allows enough "slack" to get the last of the tire over the rim.

You can push it down while you lever the tire or insert something like a block of wood to hold the tire down.

Lube up the rim and the tire bead well also.

And now these three remain: faith, hope and love. But the greatest of these is love. 1 Cor 13:13
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-31-2018, 11:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PNW
Posts: 182
Zip ties are your friend also. It keeps the tire beads squished together so itís easier to keep in the Center of the opposite side.
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-01-2018, 12:10 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 4,741
Here are two excellent videos on how to change a tire by hand. I've been changing my own for a couple years now, just using tire irons, and the techniques I learned came from the first video. The second one has some very good explanations of what's actually going on when you're trying to change a tire, and also a good explanation of how to use the zip tie method, which force the tire down into the channel so you can get that second bead up and over the rim.

Lubrication and proper technique are your friend. I use RuGlyde, available at NAPA Auto Parts stores. I know a lot of guys swear by the HF tire changer stand, but I don't think it's necessary. I've used both, and tire irons are easier for me.

The Shinko 705 is the tire I've been using for some time now. I must have gone through at least five rear tires by now, and all were changed with tire irons. Believe me, if you're doing it wrong, it feels like you're trying to push a boulder uphill; when you do it right, it's a relatively smooth process.

"No matter where you go, there you are."
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-01-2018, 12:14 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 429
Don't laugh, but I use K-Y Jelly to lube my tire beads during installation. :scared: We had some kind of medication on-hand in case our dog had a continuous seizure; some kind of rectal tranquilizer we never had to use, but the K-Y has been handy for tire changes.

While holding some tension on the last part, go around the bead and push it down into the drop center part of the rim. You will feel the tension lessen and it should just pop on.

2018 Flee-Strom 1000XT
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-01-2018, 10:57 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Greenville, Tx
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SOunds like the opposite side of the tire (on both sides it'll free up more slack) isn't in the "drop center" of the rim.

2004 DL650 "HMMVStrom"
1978 Suzuki GS1000 "Tennessee Hillbilly"
1982 Suzuki GS850G "Barnfind"
2008 MazdaSpeed 3

My channel ^^^
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-01-2018, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Trooper
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 4
It's always the little things...

a few zip ties and the back-end of a hammer to get the tire in the center channel, and I had it on in 30 seconds flat.

Thanks guys
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-01-2018, 01:19 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,494
Like the other have said the opposite side of the tire needs to be in the drop center to allow enough slack to get the bead to slip over the rim. Also return or cut the 24" levers and buy some 9" ones. It is very easy to tear a tire and the more leverage you have the easier it is. A 24" lever is for mounting tractor trailer tires.

In the tire changing world if you are forcing anything you are doing something wrong. IF you keep the opposite side of the tire in or close to the drop center and take small bites w/ levers thing will go much easier for you.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-02-2018, 02:48 AM
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Location: The Northwet
Posts: 282
You. NAPA. Gallon of Ru-Glyde. Best $10 you'll ever spend.
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Being slow doesn't make a boring bike. I had a R1 which I thought was boring. Boring is a bike that doesn't speak to you. If you like what your bike is saying let it's voice take you to far flung places. - Vertical C
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