Dropping new fork springs from the top - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-10-2017, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Dropping new fork springs from the top

Can you drop new springs from the top and not having to worry about dismantling the forks from the bike?

My bike has fresh seals and oil from the PO and I just want to upgrade the springs.

2005 Wee
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-10-2017, 06:35 PM
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Yes, and likely top up the fork oil accordingly

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-10-2017, 07:20 PM
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You would need to move handlebars out of the way and prop front. Do you have a center stand?
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-10-2017, 08:11 PM
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yup - done it

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman View Post
Can you drop new springs from the top and not having to worry about dismantling the forks from the bike?

My bike has fresh seals and oil from the PO and I just want to upgrade the springs.

2005 Wee
I "tied" (bolted) my rear wheel down to the floor - bike was on centerstand

Current Bike: 2007 ABS Wee, rebuilt forks with Cogent DDC, Elka rear shock, tapered roller steering stem bearings, fork brace, Admore top box lights, LED side-only turn indicator lights, Powerlet outlet, frame sliders, Givi windscreen, Givi top box.

Prior Bikes: 2003 EX250, 2007 DL650 (non-ABS)
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-11-2017, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman View Post
Can you drop new springs from the top and not having to worry about dismantling the forks from the bike?

My bike has fresh seals and oil from the PO and I just want to upgrade the springs.

2005 Wee
That will work in this case. I'd double check the oil level.

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-11-2017, 10:24 AM
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The fork oil is supposed to be measured with the tubes vertical (plumb)and there is a rake angle (?) on the bike and fully compressed if I remember correctly. Not sure how easy that would be to do with the tubes still in the tree. Could be wrong. I have done it on other bikes with the wheel still on but still dropped the tubes. Personally, if I was replacing the springs I would drain out the old oil and flush and put in the weight oil I wanted to go with the new springs. Even if I knew the old owner did it right w/o any doubt I would probably do it all anyway with spring change-just part of the deal and just me--I never would dream of re-using valve cover gaskets if I could get new ones,either, but lots of folks do and have no problems.
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-11-2017, 11:13 AM
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Lay down some plastic, will be a bit messy
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-11-2017, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinP65 View Post
The fork oil is supposed to be measured with the tubes vertical (plumb)and there is a rake angle (?) on the bike and fully compressed if I remember correctly. Not sure how easy that would be to do with the tubes still in the tree. Could be wrong. I have done it on other bikes with the wheel still on but still dropped the tubes. Personally, if I was replacing the springs I would drain out the old oil and flush and put in the weight oil I wanted to go with the new springs. Even if I knew the old owner did it right w/o any doubt I would probably do it all anyway with spring change-just part of the deal and just me--I never would dream of re-using valve cover gaskets if I could get new ones,either, but lots of folks do and have no problems.
You "could" take out the springs and compress the forks by jacking up the wheel till it tops out.Center stand or bike lift needed. Then use a tape to measure the high and low side of the fluid and divide by 2. Not precise but will get you in the ball park. Then lower forks/wheel and add springs. May be easier with the wheel off too. Like you, though, I would probably just take the forks off. Alot less messy! Good time to check other things, wheel bearings come to mind. Head bearings too!

Last edited by SpudBob; 03-11-2017 at 11:29 AM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-31-2017, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Backed off the preloads, loosened top clamp pinch nuts, Pulled on one fork cap - very little resistance, pulled spacer and spring out, cut new spacer, reinstalled new spring washers and new spacer, added 50ml of fork oil to compensate for lost oil, put the cap back on, reset preload. repeat on other side.

All is well.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-31-2017, 10:36 PM
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Did you really loose 50ML when pulling the old springs?
Seems I measured the free space at the top using a straightened clothes hanger and coated it with chalk.
Some such value with the forks fully extended on the center stand.
I would think the fork oil loss would really be minimal when pulling out the old forks and letting the drip for a bit.
I used the Black Lab tutorial.
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