Has anyone done a suspension how too? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 01-18-2015, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Has anyone done a suspension how too?

curious if anyone has done a suspension how to.

I'm looking for

1. front fork springs (looks like they can come right out the top?)
2. rear shock replacement

2018 Vstrom 1000
2014 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Nomad
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post #2 of 15 Old 01-18-2015, 11:42 PM
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curious if anyone has done a suspension how to.

I'm looking for

1. front fork springs (looks like they can come right out the top?)
2. rear shock replacement
Generic fork spring replacement on damper rod forks:

SonicSprings.com

Let me know if you have any questions.

Rich Desmond
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Could you not just remove the springs from the top? leave the wheels and everything else in place and just carefully take them out and then put the new ones in? you'd lose a bit of oil but i'm sure you could just add some back in?

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post #4 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 03:42 AM
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Could you not just remove the springs from the top? leave the wheels and everything else in place and just carefully take them out and then put the new ones in? you'd lose a bit of oil but i'm sure you could just add some back in?
Yes, you can. Pays to change the oil, but a hand transfer pump will get most of it from the top if you push the front of the bike all the way down.

Get some 29mm OD PVC pipe, you'll almost certainly need new spacers as well. Hacksaw to length, sand to remove all the loose bits of plastic.

The only 'trick' loosen the top fork clamp bolts as they make it hard to remove and replace the fork caps.

Ricor Intiminators and new oil are the easy fix for damping issues as well.

Pete
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post #5 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 10:38 AM
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Could you not just remove the springs from the top? leave the wheels and everything else in place and just carefully take them out and then put the new ones in? you'd lose a bit of oil but i'm sure you could just add some back in?
In theory, yes, but in practice it doesn't work too well.

You have to have all the weight off the front end in either case. If you pop a cap off with the weight on the suspension then the other leg has to support all the weight and the compresses further. That means it will be close to impossible to get the fork cap back on.

You need to change the fork oil. What's in there is thin and has a lot of wear metals in it. You could suck most of it out though the top, but what you'll leave is the nastiest, gunkiest bit.

It's easier to set the fork oil level with the tubes off the bike.

Pulling the forks off can seem a little intimidating, but it's actually very easy.

Even on older bikes that have fork oil drains I pull the tubes because it's faster, easier and less messy.

Rich Desmond
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848
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post #6 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rich, I might as well just do it right! Do you recommend replacing fork seals, bushings, etc while it's all apart? As far as i know it's all original and bike has about 35k miles

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post #7 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 11:42 AM
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Thanks Rich, I might as well just do it right! Do you recommend replacing fork seals, bushings, etc while it's all apart? As far as i know it's all original and bike has about 35k miles
At that mileage it wouldn't hurt, but probably isn't essential. The annoying part is you can't tell about the bushings until you pull it apart, and at that point you might as well change them.

Rich Desmond
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 01:43 PM
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A tip with the 1" plastic pipe for the spacer is to cut small V-grooves into the upper end to clear the cotter pin in the cap.

The fork bushings ride against the aluminum inner surface of the lower fork tube. The oil is always gray and gunky with bits of aluminum wear material in it. Not enough wear to be a problem, but enough stuff to make the oil really dirty.

The shock is just a tedious job to get out, especially on a bike with the ABS unit. The remote preload adjuster unit has to slide past the ABS unit, and it seems like a magic act. It can be done, but it can get tedious loosening and wiggling until it's out. With the bike on the centerstand and a floor jack or something else to hold the weight of the end of the swingarm, take the dog bones out and the rest of the parts holding the shock. I've seen the upper clevis that holds the top of the shock really tight--took a wiggle and a pry bar to get it out. The shafts in the linkages need to be inspected and wiped clean, and make sure the needle bearings for these shafts are in good condition and adequately greased.

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post #9 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 08:53 PM
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I just did the front end on my '09 650 , with Ricor springs and intiminators from Blair at SVracing . At 70,000 km , the forks had probably never been apart , so the splooge that came out was ...

The installation went quite well ,there's a lot of good info on this site .

I also changed the steering head bearings , brake lines , clutch cable , and dis-assembled and lubed the rear suspension . I had the shock out , ready to replace , but decided to hold off . It was quite a bitch to remove and re-install - the top bracket was so tight that I needed a big crowbar to ease it out .

Haines has a manual on this bike now , it was a great help .

Good luck ! Alex .

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post #10 of 15 Old 01-19-2015, 09:04 PM
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BlackLab has a good writeup on his web site - I used that.

For front fork rehab

BlackLab has a good write-up on his web site for his DL650 - I used that - it was very helpful

try a search

I also posted some notes and photos a while back

Current Bike: 2007 ABS Wee, rebuilt forks with Cogent DDC, Elka rear shock, tapered roller steering stem bearings, fork brace, Admore top box lights, LED side-only turn indicator lights, Powerlet outlet, frame sliders, Givi windscreen, Givi top box.

Prior Bikes: 2003 EX250, 2007 DL650 (non-ABS)
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