what will I find when i change rear suspension links - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-18-2014, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Question what will I find when i change rear suspension links

i am changing rear suspension links to lower bike by 1". i will drop front forks by same distance. am i doing the right thing or is there a better way to achieve the same result?
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-19-2014, 12:03 AM
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Take away the rubber bumpers under the seat and perhaps cut down the seat foam. Mr. Ed's Moto in Albany is your seat expert.

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post #3 of 9 Old 10-25-2014, 07:07 PM
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lowering the seat as suggested is cheapest and easiest
lowering links is next cheapest but needs dismantling the rear end but can be a DIY job.
lowering by internal shock modification is better than lowering links ( no alteration of linkage ratios) and needs an expert to do it.

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post #4 of 9 Old 10-25-2014, 10:15 PM
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seat lowering side effect

I have a 2012 Glee, I cut the rubber blocks down on the seat base to a quarter ( 1 fourth for our American friends) of their original thickness. Had the seat off the other day and noticed that the seat base is rubbing on the front left side of the battery case, will keep an eye on this and maybe trim the seat base at the contact point just in case it causes trouble later. Don't know if anybody else has had same thing on their bike
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post #5 of 9 Old 10-25-2014, 11:06 PM
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Installing lowering links is easy. You need 17,& 14 mm wrenches and I use a floor jack.

Put the bike on the center stand. Put the floor jack under the back end of one swing arm. Take off the nuts from the link bolts. Raise or lower the jack a bit so the link bolts are loose. Take out the bolts, the links fall away. Put one bolt through the new links, adjust the jack so the other bolt goes through. Tighten the nuts. Ride. Enjoy.

"Older people who are reasonable, good-tempered, and gracious will bear aging well. Those who are mean-spirited and irritable will be unhappy at every period of their lives.

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post #6 of 9 Old 10-26-2014, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by PTRider View Post
Installing lowering links is easy. You need 17,& 14 mm wrenches and I use a floor jack.

Put the bike on the center stand. Put the floor jack under the back end of one swing arm. Take off the nuts from the link bolts. Raise or lower the jack a bit so the link bolts are loose. Take out the bolts, the links fall away. Put one bolt through the new links, adjust the jack so the other bolt goes through. Tighten the nuts. Ride. Enjoy.
Doesn't cutting the seat blocks off cause the seat to rock side to side, or do you pad the tops of the "fingers" that engage on the bike to take up the slack?


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post #7 of 9 Old 10-26-2014, 11:31 AM
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Sorry PTRider, I didn't mean to quote you....


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post #8 of 9 Old 10-26-2014, 12:09 PM
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lowering

your ass is much closer to rear wheel than the front, I suggest leave the front alone - just don't go 100 mph with a lot of luggage on the rear, as there is reported front end lift from our old style fairing-cowl system.

My bike arrived without the seat bumpers - not comfy - vibes were getting thru - so I bough a new set of bumpers - no regrets,

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Current Bike: 2007 ABS Wee, rebuilt forks with Cogent DDC, Elka rear shock, tapered roller steering stem bearings, fork brace, Admore top box lights, LED side-only turn indicator lights, Powerlet outlet, frame sliders, Givi windscreen, Givi top box.

Prior Bikes: 2003 EX250, 2007 DL650 (non-ABS)
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-26-2014, 12:19 PM
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Lowering the front helps with the high speed aerodynamics issue, but doesn't do much for the seat height.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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