Fork Spring Replacement '02 1K - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-24-2014, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Fork Spring Replacement '02 1K

This may sound like a dumb one but here goes...I have a set of 1.0 Racetech springs on order...

On my '02 1000V, (no spring adjusters) can I just move the handlebars out of the way, loosen the top of the triple tree, remove the fork cap, pull out the stock spring and spacer, replace with new spring and spacer made to the same length as stock and button it back up? or do you have to completely remove and disassemble per the book?...looks do-able my way from the drawings in the service manual? Only 15,000 km on bike and don't want to disrupt seals etc. May suck out oil and change that way, I realize this method doesn't change all the oil. What say those with more knowledge of the voodoo of front suspension ? Thanks, Craig.

2002 DL1000 K2
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-24-2014, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millwright98 View Post
This may sound like a dumb one but here goes...I have a set of 1.0 Racetech springs on order...

On my '02 1000V, (no spring adjusters) can I just move the handlebars out of the way, loosen the top of the triple tree, remove the fork cap, pull out the stock spring and spacer, replace with new spring and spacer made to the same length as stock and button it back up? or do you have to completely remove and disassemble per the book?...looks do-able my way from the drawings in the service manual? Only 15,000 km on bike and don't want to disrupt seals etc. May suck out oil and change that way, I realize this method doesn't change all the oil. What say those with more knowledge of the voodoo of front suspension ? Thanks, Craig.
You don't want the new total spring/spacer length to be the same as stock. (That will give you too much static preload with the stiffer springs.)
You don't want to leave old fork oil in there.
No need to separate the tubes or mess with the seals, but you do need to pull the legs off the bike so you can invert the tubes and get all the old oil out. Also much easier to set the fork oil level if they're off the bike.

Rich Desmond
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-25-2014, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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ok..thanks....was hoping to avoid total removal...but what the heck...doesn't seem like winter is going anywhere too soon up here...lol

2002 DL1000 K2
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-25-2014, 09:59 PM
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Just an FYI. The first time I removed my forks I tried to remove the fender first. After much trying I found out you have to slide one of the forks out before you can remove the fender At least that's how it is on a Wee.

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-26-2014, 12:25 PM
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Those pesky nuts inside the front fender can be a pain. I glue them into place with one of the clear, strong polymer glues like Liquid Nails Perfect Glue or a similar product.

"Older people who are reasonable, good-tempered, and gracious will bear aging well. Those who are mean-spirited and irritable will be unhappy at every period of their lives.

"Let each of use properly whatever strengths he has and strive to use them well. If he does this, he will never find himself lacking."

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post #6 of 10 Old 03-26-2014, 01:16 PM
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I'd pull the forks and change the oil too. Your new springs/spacer are likely to give you a different oil level, so best start fresh.
As for preload, I'd cut the new spacer for same length, check your sag and if you need to adjust, you can always shorten...... OTOH, RaceTech sends you some extra washers to add some preload if you need it/want it.

Last edited by raYzerman; 03-26-2014 at 01:19 PM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-26-2014, 03:07 PM
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You want to cut the spacer so that you have about 15mm of static preload on the spring with the fork cap screwed on.
On the '02s, with no preload adjuster, that means the spacer should be just about flush with the top of the fork tube. (With the fork fully extended, of course.)
To double check, measure the depth of the fork cap, i.e the part that goes into the tube. If it's 15mm, then the spacer should be flush. If it's more than that, then the spacer should be recessed into the tube by the amount greater than 15mm. If the cap is 18mm deep, then the tube recessed 3mm.
Likewise if the cap depth is less. If it's 13mm then the spacer should stick up 2mm above the tube.

DON'T start with it the same length as stock. There will be a lot of spring force to overcome to get the threads started (much more than stock) and it makes it easy to cross-thread the caps.

Rich Desmond
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-26-2014, 04:23 PM
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I have the same bike and just got Racetech 1.1's and gold valves in. I ended up getting a local shop to do it, his prices on parts were so good it amounted to free labour.

Went down on my strom

I sold my Aprilia because I was broke but spent it all on upgrades for the Strom, ah well...
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-27-2014, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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Great suggestions and info guys thanks....pretty much made up my mind to pull the forks, pump them dry and do it right...no point in taking shortcuts now

thanks again!

Craig

2002 DL1000 K2
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-27-2014, 12:27 PM
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Used fork oil that looks like bad mud is normal. I flush mine with solvent (paint thinner) and any cheap, light hydraulic oil (jack oil) to clean them, but Rich says that much effort isn't needed.

"Older people who are reasonable, good-tempered, and gracious will bear aging well. Those who are mean-spirited and irritable will be unhappy at every period of their lives.

"Let each of use properly whatever strengths he has and strive to use them well. If he does this, he will never find himself lacking."

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