How can I protect the bike for slow-speed practice? - Page 4 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
Riding Proficiency Tips and suggestions for improving the rider's safety skills and riding techniques

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post #31 of 39 Old 04-23-2019, 04:01 PM
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I would suggest several layers of bubble wrap for low speed go downs. It probably won't help but it will look very strange.
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post #32 of 39 Old 04-24-2019, 02:12 PM
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Part of my endorsement testing for Washington State was a 3 day class that included both classwork and practice with instructors on a course. We had to use their beat up little 125's and 250's, but one of the things they really hammered on was low speed maneuvers. They have some youtube videos online that have pointers and tips, and the hardest part was the sharp u-turn/figure 8. Just shift your weight to the other side and look where you want to go. I was nailing it ever time doing that.

they also did the cone weaves with the cones in a line and then staggered further out to the side. I really did learn a lot taking the course over just doing it through the DMV, I know my state also offers another class for improving basic skills, that might be worth it?
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post #33 of 39 Old 04-24-2019, 03:07 PM
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Part of my endorsement testing for Washington State was a 3 day class that included both classwork and practice with instructors on a course. We had to use their beat up little 125's and 250's, but one of the things they really hammered on was low speed maneuvers. They have some youtube videos online that have pointers and tips, and the hardest part was the sharp u-turn/figure 8. Just shift your weight to the other side and look where you want to go. I was nailing it ever time doing that.

they also did the cone weaves with the cones in a line and then staggered further out to the side. I really did learn a lot taking the course over just doing it through the DMV, I know my state also offers another class for improving basic skills, that might be worth it?
Naffle offers the best suggestion you will get.
A safety riding course touches all the bases. Top of list is protecting your bike. You use theirs and I bet if you tell them your main goal they will accommodate you with extra focus.
There are a ton of safety courses in Wisconsin (Dairyland) both government and commercial.
https://wisconsindot.gov/Pages/dmv/m...ining-loc.aspx
https://abatewis.org/programs/safe-rider/

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post #34 of 39 Old 04-24-2019, 07:38 PM
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they also did the cone weaves with the cones in a line and then staggered further out to the side. I really did learn a lot taking the course over just doing it through the DMV, I know my state also offers another class for improving basic skills, that might be worth it?
Being in the Army, I'm required to take safety courses regularly as refresher (sometimes to absurdity... cause sometimes the Army goes a little too far and loses their common sense.... sigh).

As such, I've taken BRC, BRC2 (or "Experienced Rider Course") about 3 times, and Advanced Rider Course (or "Sportbike Rider Course"...pretty sure they're the same thing) 3 times. And I've signed up for BRC2 in early June cause... well... according to local policies, it's time to re-certify again.

The BRC2 might be ok, but for the most part, the skills and drills are VERY VERY similar (some the exact same) as BRC, but you use your own bike. I think it's handy to really dial in on your bike, but I wouldn't expect new skills or knowledge. Just a refresher of what you previously learned. Basically, I'd say save the cash, take YOUR bike to a parking lot, and practice.

The Advanced Rider Course (if it's similar to the Sportbike Rider Course we call it in the Army), will teach a few new techniques, most notably why people lean off their bikes and into a turn, how to increase traction in a turn, I think they touch on trail-braking, and in general, I think if you're gonna spend money, this isn't a bad way to go as there will be some new stuff here.

I haven't done a track-day course, but I've heard nothing but great things about those, so really it's up to your wallet and what's available near enough that you can pay for and will travel to.


Alexi
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post #35 of 39 Old 04-25-2019, 08:57 AM
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For protection, your best bet is a tough plastic. I would forget bubble wrap and foam pipe insulation - no abrasion resistance. Whoever suggested splitting a hose (garden, heater hose from a car, etc.) to sheath the frame guards had a great idea. Ditto for used and discarded (read cheap) boat bumpers. I think duffels stuffed with clothes will take a beating unless they are disposable.

When I was shopping for crash bars, I found that T-Rex Racing offered crash guards with a plastic 'puck' or slider that was split vertically and grooved for the crash bar. If they sell those separately (they told me the puck was replaceable) you might get them for your bike. I just checked their website and now T-Rex has line drawings instead of photos. Check those out.
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Last edited by Ratchet; 04-26-2019 at 12:01 AM.
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post #36 of 39 Old 04-30-2019, 11:35 PM
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I think that having some sort of visual reference is a part I'm missing.

It's perfectly fine to go practice in an empty parking lot, but without some way to measure your maneuvers, it's hard to be sure if you're actually doing it right. It's easy to run wide when there's nothing to run into.

Might be time to buy a set of those short squishy plastic MSF cones. Dunno how else I'm going to keep myself honest.

You can use parking lot lines, maybe, but I feel like the brightly-colored cones are going to work better. All the lines sort of look alike in peripheral vision.
Cones are fine, but be aware that when leaned over at max(or close to it) hitting a cone can cause the front tire to slide, then down you go... that is a really a good motivator to NOT hit a cone . As for the question, I have not measured the DL650 turning radius, but just guessing it would be about 16' at full lock and leaned over. So, make a 20' circle(use 10' of tape measure and stand in the middle while someone walks the dumb end of the tap around you while marking the pavement(you can use Krylon water based spray paint).

You can start with a larger(than 20) circle, then as you get better and more confidence start trying smaller. Confidence is a progressive thing, so don't push too hard.

Ratchet is right, heater hose or garden hose is best, but after several drops it will even wear thru, so change it out after a drop or two. Harleys have a big advantage here with elephant ear engine guards. Makes me wonder why DL engine guards are not at least as wide as the handle bars???

Bark buster handguards will save the clutch and brake levers
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post #37 of 39 Old 04-30-2019, 11:50 PM
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You are on to something. I feel like the Givi crash bars ought to be another inch or two out from where they sit, at least.

Not sure what width constraint Givi had in mind or whether it was purely to save $ on materials.

For first-gen DL1000's the turning radius is given in the manual as 8.86', with 40 being the maximum steering angle. But, bike straight up, or leaned over? Seems worthwhile to find out by walking the bike around a circle upright, as in the video linked previously.
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post #38 of 39 Old 05-02-2019, 06:03 PM
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I wish RichlandRick would build some real "Engine Guards".....I'd buy 'em.
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post #39 of 39 Old 05-02-2019, 06:24 PM
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FWIW, I went to a parking lot the other day and walked the bike around as tight as I could manage, as in the video.

With little to no lean, full-lock turning will get you around well within the width of 2 parking spaces.

Unfortunately, I didn't have any way to measure. Parking lots vary in the width of spaces. Even so, it looked pretty close to a 8 to 9 foot radius turn.

Meaning it is possible to U-turn even more tightly, if you lean 'er over a bit.

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