Learning Lock-to-Lock Turns - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
Riding Proficiency Tips and suggestions for improving the rider's safety skills and riding techniques

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post #11 of 37 Old 04-03-2019, 10:27 AM
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Good video Big boy...that covers a lot of it.

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post #12 of 37 Old 04-03-2019, 10:59 AM
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Only Bike I could do the lock to lock figure 8's easily was my '73 Honda 500/4.
That bike was just balanced better? Of course I was 40 years younger.
I've been to the police rodeos and those guys can throw the Honda, BMW and Kawasaki police bikes around quite nicely but I also saw them dump the bikes and mirrors were flying all over the place.
Find a nice soft grassy area and set up some cones and progressively move them close to one another and have at it.
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post #13 of 37 Old 04-03-2019, 01:43 PM
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Heed to Motor7’s advice, it’s spot on. All I might add to or reiterate is that with only 12K miles in the saddle you’re a good candidate to start learning slow maneuvering techniques as you’re only starting to developed bad habits. Depending on what you want to accomplish, seeking forum advice, watching videos and self practice isn’t always the best avenue to take as you will only amplify bad habits. The classes mentioned will provide a great starting point for proper technique and further multi day immersion classes such as lock and lean, Midwest, etc, just north of you, on one of their rentals will only strengthen ones abilities.
The Strom is a fun cone course bike, capable of 16’ turns its much more forgiving then my HD or ST1300’s. Seemingly top heavy you will find that momentum is most often your friend but it’s lack of head weight, ease of weight transference and lock to lock make up for its higher COG.
Good luck
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post #14 of 37 Old 04-03-2019, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VSrider View Post
Can't think of a good reason you need that skill unless you're doing stunt shows or parades or something. I've been riding a long time and I can't do it, I've actually never tried and never needed to but if you want to learn maybe someone will give you pointers.
When I was taking the MSF course everyone was worried about screwing up the figure 8 turn. The instructor said if you got to screw something up screw up the figure 8 turn and do good on the rest. You'll still pass w/o putting undo stress on yourself and the figure 8 skill is something you'll rarely use in real life.

The figure 8 is more a clutch control/braking thing getat for super technical slow speed riding (like single track rock gardens) and not so much about maneuvering in tight space. The only time I ever hit full lock was riding in the mountains where a stump/rock hidden by leave slap the front wheel to full lock or coming up the drive and having to park on the left side garage. Since I have to make a 180 degree turn to get into the garage and the left side is the closest its a tight turn. I am at full lock for about 1/100th of a second.
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post #15 of 37 Old 04-03-2019, 05:16 PM
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I took a Ride Like A Pro (RLAP) class a few weekends ago, & it was an eye-opener.

I don't think it's possible to do lock-to-lock turns, or just full-lock U-turns, without using at least the clutch friction zone. Before taking the class, I tried practicing them in parking lots, but could never get the turns all that tight, & constantly felt like I was going to fall over.

That's because I was doing it completely wrong. You must use the clutch friction zone. It gives you much much finer authority over power going to the rear wheel than any other control.

I had that "ah-HA" moment during RLAP. I would describe the realization as this: you have to apply power to the rear wheel to stay up & keep turning. The clutch is your primary means of doing so. There is a LOT of fine control available between "clutch all the way in" and "clutch fully released." Basically, the clutch becomes your throttle.

Try holding throttle constant (perhaps 2x idle speed) while controlling power application with the clutch. It feels weird to have the engine revving ~2500 rpm but be hardly moving, but you'll get used to it.

More advanced riders will often modulate throttle as well as clutch, but initially it's easier to hold constant throttle & vary clutch.

All this is more easily described than done. The techniques are simple, but not easy. That is, the mechanics aren't really complicated, it's learning to do all of them at once that's hard.

Hope this helps.
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post #16 of 37 Old 04-03-2019, 08:56 PM
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Years ago I was at a Motors Comp and a retired MO on a Harley did a clean memorial run on the 18’ course while saluting the entire time. Set the idle high and only used the clutch and one arm. Impressive!
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post #17 of 37 Old 04-04-2019, 09:14 AM
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Yes, locking the throttle at a preset rpm and it can all be done with clutch. Some guys ride that way all the time, others modulate both clutch and throttle...I'm in the second group. A neighboring SO's Sgt would do the entire course(which is 10-12 obstacles) while holding a cup of coffee in one hand....no cones hit and no coffee spilled. NYPD had a guy back in the early 90's that would ride it while squat-ing on the seat with both feet. Lots of talent out there for sure.

The nice thing about the figure 8 is that it really helps teach clutch control while making you go in both directions without worrying about any outside cones. The center of the 8 is where you let the clutch out to stand the bike up, shoot across the center, then pull the clutch back in a bit to dive into the next turn. There is a rhythm to it, you just need to find it and get in that groove and it becomes easier.

It's going to be 75 degrees today I and have to take the Dually and run errands all over hell and back...I am going insane.
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Last edited by Motor7; 04-04-2019 at 09:16 AM.
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post #18 of 37 Old 04-04-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BackPacker View Post
In the Netherlands, where a motorcycle endorsement on your license is mandatory, this is exactly what I was taught. First gear, speed up to about 1500 rpm and then use the rear brake to reduce to 1200 or so - at least that was on the 4-cylinder 600cc learner bike we used. With that rear brake dragging it became a lot easier to do tight maneuvers.

With the handlebars in full lock, you can't use the handlebars anymore to maintain your balance. But you can use power - but you do not want to use the engine controls for that as they're a bit too crude. So you use the rear brake while keeping engine power constant. If you think you're falling into the turn, release the brake just a tad. You will speed up ever so slightly and that will get you upright. And if you're falling out of the turn, apply the rear brake just a tad more.

It sounds complicated but after a few tries (and a few falls - these learner bikes had well-used crash bars) it feels really natural.
Tried this last night, worked brilliantly. I agree with an earlier poster that this isn't a skill I'm likely to need, it just bothered me that I couldn't do it. Thanks for the good instructions.
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post #19 of 37 Old 04-04-2019, 11:23 AM
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I used this skill last night trying to fool the cop on which way I was going to run. After the 3rd figure 8 they just rammed me.
If you watch the news at 5 I think they have video of my technique.
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Last edited by Fynlcut; 04-04-2019 at 04:12 PM.
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post #20 of 37 Old 04-05-2019, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Fynlcut View Post
I used this skill last night trying to fool the cop on which way I was going to run. After the 3rd figure 8 they just rammed me.
If you watch the news at 5 I think they have video of my technique.
Are you going to setup your own “Ride like you Stole-It” YouTube channel? It would balance well with the various police rider training videos.
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