12V Speed Adjustable 2 Pin Direct Replacement Compatible LED Electronic Flasher Relay fix CAR and Motorcycle Turn Signal & Hazard Warn Hyper Flash Relay

Name: 12V Speed Adjustable 2 Pin Direct Replacement Compatible LED Electronic Flasher Relay fix CAR and Motorcycle Turn Signal & Hazard Warn Hyper Flash Relay
Price: 9.99 USD

farokh · 2022-06-15T19:32:40-0400

I just posted on the DL1050 2020+ forum about something similar, but I'll repost the pertinent stuff here. I have a 2017 Wee and I speak from years and years of experience with Suzuki and their stators and RRs and how much you can load them up.
What I've done on my 650 is to replace all the lights with LEDs eg low and high beams, parking lamp, license plate lamp, and all 4 turn signals, but I had to replace the flasher unit so it wouldn't blink like crazy. I found LED bulbs that are really bright and work well in the stock housing. I'll list the parts I bought (all from Amazon I'm ashamed to say) at the end of the email.
I also replaced the RR with a Compu-Fire clone. This fits into the comment already made by Spec and the reference to Info thread here and I won't repeat it here

.
My bike came with heated grips. For cold weather I use heated gloves and a heated jacket liner. I can run pretty much everything except the heated grips (no need with the heated gloves) and I still have 14 v on the dash meter at anything above idle. It's been 14,000 miles since I replaced the RR and everything is good.
I've replaced a few stators/RR over the years on various Suzukis I've owned (GS850G and Cavalcade in particular), and it was clear on the stators I replaced they were cooked. One thing that I can't express strongly enough, make sure you have enough oil and that it's good quality. Since the motor oil cools the stator, you want to make sure you've got enough.
OK, here's the parts list:
Turns signal bulbs (set of 4): Amazon.com
Replacement flasher: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097SMP66B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
H7 low beam: Amazon.com
H9 high beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J9CTW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Compu-Fire clone RR: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YD8HXC9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

farokh · 2022-06-15T19:13:17-0400

I have a 2017 Wee, so while I'm not speaking from experience with your bike, I can speak from years and years of experience with Suzuki and their stators and RRs.
The major cause of failure in the stator is heat. The stator is oil cooled, but because of how the stock RR works, the stator is always running at full output. That's because the stock RR is a regulated by shorting to ground, where any excess voltage/amperage is basically shorted to ground.
What I've done on my 650 is to replace all the lights with LEDs eg low and high beams, parking lamp, license plate lamp, and all 4 turn signals, but I had to replace the flasher unit so it wouldn't blink like crazy. I was going to replace the turn signals with "fancy" ones, but they all looked like crap and were dim to boot. I found LED bulbs that are really bright and work well in the stock housing. I'll list the parts I bought (all from Amazon I'm ashamed to say) at the end of the email.
I also replaced the RR with a Compu-Fire clone. This RR works by only drawing as much power as the bike actually needs. I noticed that the stator side of the engine is quite a bit cooler than it used to be. I should have take before/after temp readings, but I didn't. I've also added combo fog/driving lights (the driving lights come on with the high beams and the fogs are on a separate switch with a relay setup to shut off the fogs when the brights turn on), and the bike came with heated grips. For cold weather I use heated gloves and a heated jacket liner. I can run pretty much everything except the heated grips (no need with the heated gloves) and I still have 14 v on the dash meter at anything above idle. It's been 14,000 miles since I replaced the RR and everything is good.
I've replaced a few stators/RR over the years on various Suzukis I've owned (GS850G and Cavalcade in particular), and it was clear on the stators I replaced they were cooked. One thing that I can't express strongly enough, make sure you have enough oil and that it's good quality. Since the motor oil cools the stator, you want to make sure you've got enough.
OK, here's the parts list:
Fog/Driving lights: Amazon.com
Turns signal bulbs (set of 4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCMH7RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Replacement flasher: Amazon.com
H7 low beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TQKBKLN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
H9 high beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J9CTW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Compu-Fire clone RR: Amazon.com

oneshot51 · 2022-06-16T02:41:24-0400

farokh said:
I have a 2017 Wee, so while I'm not speaking from experience with your bike, I can speak from years and years of experience with Suzuki and their stators and RRs.
The major cause of failure in the stator is heat. The stator is oil cooled, but because of how the stock RR works, the stator is always running at full output. That's because the stock RR is a regulated by shorting to ground, where any excess voltage/amperage is basically shorted to ground.
What I've done on my 650 is to replace all the lights with LEDs eg low and high beams, parking lamp, license plate lamp, and all 4 turn signals, but I had to replace the flasher unit so it wouldn't blink like crazy. I was going to replace the turn signals with "fancy" ones, but they all looked like crap and were dim to boot. I found LED bulbs that are really bright and work well in the stock housing. I'll list the parts I bought (all from Amazon I'm ashamed to say) at the end of the email.
I also replaced the RR with a Compu-Fire clone. This RR works by only drawing as much power as the bike actually needs. I noticed that the stator side of the engine is quite a bit cooler than it used to be. I should have take before/after temp readings, but I didn't. I've also added combo fog/driving lights (the driving lights come on with the high beams and the fogs are on a separate switch with a relay setup to shut off the fogs when the brights turn on), and the bike came with heated grips. For cold weather I use heated gloves and a heated jacket liner. I can run pretty much everything except the heated grips (no need with the heated gloves) and I still have 14 v on the dash meter at anything above idle. It's been 14,000 miles since I replaced the RR and everything is good.
I've replaced a few stators/RR over the years on various Suzukis I've owned (GS850G and Cavalcade in particular), and it was clear on the stators I replaced they were cooked. One thing that I can't express strongly enough, make sure you have enough oil and that it's good quality. Since the motor oil cools the stator, you want to make sure you've got enough.
OK, here's the parts list:
Fog/Driving lights: Amazon.com
Turns signal bulbs (set of 4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCMH7RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Replacement flasher: Amazon.com
H7 low beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TQKBKLN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
H9 high beam: Amazon.com
Compu-Fire clone RR: Amazon.com

Hey I got a 2009 Vstrom 650, so maybe you can help me out if its not too much different. I also bought another oem Stator and a Compu-fire R/R. I know I can figure out how to take off the plastics, gas tank, airbox, replace the Stator. I just need help with what to do with each wire coming off the Compu-fire R/R and hopefully the mounting is the same. I got a discussion/thread going on my profile with more details. Thanks

12V Speed Adjustable 2 Pin Direct Replacement Compatible LED Electronic Flasher Relay fix CAR and Motorcycle Turn Signal & Hazard Warn Hyper Flash Relay

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