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What chain wax/lube do you PRIMARILY use?

  • DuPont (Teflon Chain-Saver)

    Votes: 159 27%
  • Maxima (Chain Wax)

    Votes: 124 21%
  • BelRay (SuperClean Chain Lube)

    Votes: 48 8.2%
  • Tirox (Chain Wax)

    Votes: 7 1.2%
  • Motul brand

    Votes: 58 9.9%
  • Ipone brand

    Votes: 4 1%
  • Wurth brand

    Votes: 18 3.1%
  • Motor oil (used/new?)

    Votes: 41 7%
  • WD40

    Votes: 19 3.2%
  • (other: please post and specify!)

    Votes: 107 18%
401 - 420 of 460 Posts
Use a Toturo auto chain oiler and their chain oil for the auto oiler. It uses about 20ml oil per day's ride, which is very little. The chain now has 18,300 miles and never need adjusting. I think keeping the chain lightly oiled so it always has a slight sheen and is never dry is the secret. I couldn't be happier with it.
 
Currently have ~35,000 mi on the DID replacement chain and JT replacement sprockets on my 1290 Super Duke. Still going strong, a couple of small adj. Lube it after each day ride (250-450 mi) with Dupont Chain Saver on the inner plates only (for the rollers). Wiped down occasionally with a rag damp with solvent, no brushing to push grit into the seals. I ride the bike aggressively on twisty roads. Dont see any auto oiler in my future. My other bikes are getting the same results.
 
Use a Toturo auto chain oiler and their chain oil for the auto oiler. It uses about 20ml oil per day's ride, which is very little. The chain now has 18,300 miles and never need adjusting. I think keeping the chain lightly oiled so it always has a slight sheen and is never dry is the secret. I couldn't be happier with it.
A days ride means different things to different people.

I suspect.it will be more helpful and meaningful to people if you mention how many miles/km you would do in a "days ride"


.. Tom
 
Hey folks,

Here's a fun little poll I posted on another forum, that might be of use to both new and experienced riders alike.

Wondering who's using what chain wax/lube product (yes there's tons of threads on this), but additionally, what kind of mileage you're getting out of your chains & sprockets, as well as your personal thoughts on the product you've chosen.



Can't make a multi-question poll, so here's what I'd like you guys to do:
  1. As per the poll options, indicate which wax/lube product you mostly use. If yours isn't listed, post it in a response; same goes if you've switched between different products. I'd also like to know whether you ride in all/most conditions (winter/salty roads, rain, dirt etc)
  2. Post a response with details: How frequently you lube, what (if any) cleaning product/method you use, and your personal thoughts/mini-review on said product.
  3. Post the mileage you've gotten out of your current or past chains. i.e. if a chain lasted 25k, 40k, etc before needing replacement, and how worn they were at that point. (this is the info I'm mostly looking for!)
  4. (added after initial post) What brand/kind of chain are you using? (D.I.D. VX, EK, RK, Renthal... 525/530.. etc)


Alright folks, let's hear your own responses!
Thanks for starting this thread. I am very keen to learn what experiences others have had with various chain lube products. On my DL1050, I used the Maxima chain wax exclusively from start to finish on the original RK chain. Lubed every 500 miles, cleaned and lubed every 1000. I ride almost exclusively on pavement, but in all weather. I replaced the chain at 22,500 miles due to just one link being bound up. The other 117 links were in great shape, showing very little signs of wear. I don’t know why the one link failed? But it only takes one link to break to ruin your whole day. I am very sensitive to chain failures though, as my best friend was tragically killed when his chain broke, winding itself around the wheel locking it up and crashing the bike. That risk is just not worth trying to stretch your chain life to absolute limit. Of course I replaced both sprockets as well. But holding the old sprockets up to the new, was hard to see any wear on them either. For the new chain I went with a D.I.D. 525ZVMX2 gold for the higher tensile strength than the RK. I decided the one bound up link was a freak failure, and due to the great condition of the rest of the chain and the sprockets, decided to continue using the chain wax because it makes so much less of a mess than any others I have tried. We will see how long the D.I.D. Lasts…
 
Thanks for starting this thread. I am very keen to learn what experiences others have had with various chain lube products. On my DL1050, I used the Maxima chain wax exclusively from start to finish on the original RK chain. Lubed every 500 miles, cleaned and lubed every 1000. I ride almost exclusively on pavement, but in all weather. I replaced the chain at 22,500 miles due to just one link being bound up. The other 117 links were in great shape, showing very little signs of wear. I don’t know why the one link failed? But it only takes one link to break to ruin your whole day. I am very sensitive to chain failures though, as my best friend was tragically killed when his chain broke, winding itself around the wheel locking it up and crashing the bike. That risk is just not worth trying to stretch your chain life to absolute limit. Of course I replaced both sprockets as well. But holding the old sprockets up to the new, was hard to see any wear on them either. For the new chain I went with a D.I.D. 525ZVMX2 gold for the higher tensile strength than the RK. I decided the one bound up link was a freak failure, and due to the great condition of the rest of the chain and the sprockets, decided to continue using the chain wax because it makes so much less of a mess than any others I have tried. We will see how long the D.I.D. Lasts…
Good thinking to replace the chain when one link was binding - weakest link and all that. It's smart to apply the same thinking to tires - don't take them all the way to the end. It's only leaving a tiny bit of tread in the table, just a few $ worth. One nasty experience like your friend tragically suffered is all it takes to think logically about this. Btw, fwiw, I love my Tutoro auto chain oiler. No effort expended in cleaning and lubing every other day. Just fill about every 3 days of riding and go. Takes 1 minute. Highly recommend.
 
Good thinking to replace the chain when one link was binding - weakest link and all that. It's smart to apply the same thinking to tires - don't take them all the way to the end. It's only leaving a tiny bit of tread in the table, just a few $ worth. One nasty experience like your friend tragically suffered is all it takes to think logically about this. Btw, fwiw, I live my Tutoro auto chain oiler. No effort expended in cleaning and lubing every other day. Just fill about every 3 days of riding and go. Takes 1 minute. Highly recommend.
Wow, thx for the tip. Will look into it.
 
Wow, thx for the tip. Will look into it.
For sure planedoc. I was reluctant to go from shaft-drive to chain, but the Tutoro has made it effortless and pain-free. I have 20,500 miles on my OEM chain and have adjusted it twice, both during the initial couple thou miles. The chain gets a light misting of oil and that flings the dirt off. If you REALLY want a cool setup, also get yourself the SNOTO chain fling guard. About $50. Mounts on the axle, looks cool, and catches about 95% of the flung oil. One more problem solved. You will love it as much as the Tutoro. Will definitely have both on any chain bike I own.
 
For sure planedoc. I was reluctant to go from shaft-drive to chain, but the Tutoro has made it effortless and pain-free. I have 20,500 miles on my OEM chain and have adjusted it twice, both during the initial couple thou miles. The chain gets a light misting of oil and that flings the dirt off. If you REALLY want a cool setup, also get yourself the SNOTO chain fling guard. About $50. Mounts on the axle, looks cool, and catches about 95% of the flung oil. One more problem solved. You will love it as much as the Tutoro. Will definitely have both on any chain bike I own.
Do you have any pics of your setup you can share?
 
Do you have any pics of your setup you can share?
Planedoc, here's the setup. The Tutoro is the aluminum cylinder with the diagonal slots, mounted below the side cover. They come with a variety of mounting plates to fit to almost anything. If you get one and need pics of my mounting, I can send you them. The line the oil travels through goes down to the bottom of the swingarm and has a mount that is ziptied onto the swingarm. The line continues and a small metal wire goes in the last 4" or so with about 1" remaining to put the nozzle in. The nozzle is bent to barely touch the smooth part of the sprocket. Oil drips oil the nozzle onto the sprocket, and centrifugal force dispenses it across all parts and sides if the chain.

The SNOTO is the black piece mounted over the sprocket.

Hope this helps.
Image
 

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Planedoc, here's the setup. The Tutoro is the aluminum cylinder with the diagonal slots, mounted below the side cover. They come with a variety of mounting plates to fit to almost anything. If you get one and need pics of my mounting, I can send you them. The line the oil travels through goes down to the bottom of the swingarm and has a mount that is ziptied onto the swingarm. The line continues and a small metal wire goes in the last 4" or so with about 1" remaining to put the nozzle in. The nozzle is bent to barely touch the smooth part of the sprocket. Oil drips oil the nozzle onto the sprocket, and centrifugal force dispenses it across all parts and sides if the chain.

The SNOTO is the black piece mounted over the sprocket.

Hope this helps. View attachment 332073
Yes, that does help. Looks like a pretty clean install.
 
My old 2010 that I sold in 2016 and just bought back has always been maintained with Maxima chain wax and is still in great condition at 35,000 km
 
Since the change in the original DuPont Teflon spray, I have used this product. Good durability, applies thin and thickens overnight. Minimal sling off. Not a miracle solution, but still recommended.
 

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I have used all types of aerosol lubes, and settled on Motul Chain Paste.... as the name suggests, its in a toothpaste tube... has a brush applicator, but i find it messy, so a toothbrush, or as my newest method, i screw a caulking gun nozzle on it and dab it on.
Found a 10% improvement in chain and sprocket life, at least.
Wet weather makes it look like its gone, but, next dry ride and the chain rollers go dark with lube.

This is a pavement bike only.
 
PJ1 wax lube. 12K miles on the original chain on a DR650. Sprockets are fine too. Pavement and improved gravel/dirt. Cleaned with Kero about every 600 miles. I think kerosene is also called paraffin in Europe.

I did pick up a tube of the Motul chain paste to see how that works. I'm using that on the recently acquired 2012 DL650 of unknown history.
 
I have three bikes, two are used on a regular basis, all fitted with scottoilers, lube used, two stroke oil, easy flow and no gunk collected on the chain. I found that heavier oil on the chain collected dirt and crud. With a little time and even less effort on attending to adjustment, no oil collects on the wheel rim. The current chain on my V Strom 1000, in excess of 40,000 kms, and only replaced one front sprocket in that time. Go Scotty.
 
MAXIMA Chain Wax is what I used, pretty much exclusively, and it has served me very well. My DR650 would require chain & sprocket replacement about every 20K miles. My GSX1250FA (2011) would average about 28-30K miles per chain & sprocket set, all the time using MAXIMA. The 1250 had almost 66K miles on it when sold in summer 2023; the original chain and sprocket didn't need to be replaced until 35K.
My current main ride is a 2023 DL1050 V-Strom, with almost 11K miles and chain and sprockets are showing very little if any wear. Personally I much prefer drive shaft to chain drive (also own an R9T BMW and an R1200RT), but love the V-Strom and don't mind the chain maintenance.
Ride safely my friends, J.
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401 - 420 of 460 Posts