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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I am very partial to Michelin tires because in 1985, they sponsored me racing a Suzuki GS1150 in the Open Production class with their brand new tire model called Hisport. It was really the first of the DOT rated track tires. The production class required DOT tires. The rules also required using stock tire/rim sizes. Well Michelin only made the Hisport in the GS1150 sizes the first year. So if you had any other bike, you were out of luck. Those tires were so much better than anything else made at that time, it gave me an unfair, although legal advantage. That year I dropped the production class track record in Portland 2 seconds a lap, and won the Season championship in Seattle. Neither would have happened without those Michelin Hisport tires.
Cool story. '85 GS1150 was a very sweet bike. Had an '83 GS1100E, loved that motor!
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Some late-braking (pun and mis-spelling intended) news... Just completed a ride that included some pretty significant and deep gravel on my Road 6's. They absolutely suck and should not be considered for anything other than hard gravel and dirt. The A41's were way better.
 
Some late-braking (pun and mis-spelling intended) news... Just completed a ride that included some pretty significant and deep gravel on my Road 6's. They absolutely suck and should not be considered for anything other than hard gravel and dirt. The A41's were way better.
interesting... thanks for the report. On a recent trip (just got back a few minutes ago) there was surprise road construction (which always seems to happen) with crappy or gravel surfaces, even if you don't intend to ride on gravel.
 
Pulled the rear wheel off today. Got 5k miles out of it, a little lower than expected. Usage has been mostly spirited canyon rides, and a handful of weekend two-up trips.

Handling has been pretty consistent through it's life, wasn't ever flickable, but very stable and predictable.

I'm replacing it with a Road 5 to get some experience with that tire. The rear Road 6 seems to have a more flat profile.
Image


The front Road 6 still looks good and should do another 5k I imagine.
 
I recently replaced my second A41 rear and first A41 front on my 2023 DL1050 at just under 12,000 Miles. All three tires, the two rears and one front, still had over 50% of their tread depth remaining at change. But all three tire‘s treads were getting very cupped. My riding is a mix of heavily loaded high speed freeway touring with full saddle bags and trunk, as well as spirited unloaded twisties. Yeah, i hate throwing away tires with 50%+ left on the tread depth, but i don’t like having cupped tires either. Btw, I purchased a tire machine and wheel balncer for the recent tire changes and changed them myself. With the previous tires, everything felt smooth to me, but my cross bar mounted GPS would vibrate noticeably above 80mph. When balancing the tires myself, a 10 gram weight was too little, and the next size up, a 15 gram, was too much. I took the 15 gram over to my belt sander and shaved it down to 13 grams. Guess what, my GPS stopped vibrating! There isn’t a shop anywhere that would have done that for a customer’s tires. They would have either used the 10 or the 15 and called it good.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
I recently replaced my second A41 rear and first A41 front on my 2023 DL1050 at just under 12,000 Miles. All three tires, the two rears and one front, still had over 50% of their tread depth remaining at change. But all three tire‘s treads were getting very cupped. My riding is a mix of heavily loaded high speed freeway touring with full saddle bags and trunk, as well as spirited unloaded twisties. Yeah, i hate throwing away tires with 50%+ left on the tread depth, but i don’t like having cupped tires either. Btw, I purchased a tire machine and wheel balncer for the recent tire changes and changed them myself. With the previous tires, everything felt smooth to me, but my cross bar mounted GPS would vibrate noticeably above 80mph. When balancing the tires myself, a 10 gram weight was too little, and the next size up, a 15 gram, was too much. I took the 15 gram over to my belt sander and shaved it down to 13 grams. Guess what, my GPS stopped vibrating! There isn’t a shop anywhere that would have done that for a customer’s tires. They would have either used the 10 or the 15 and called it good.
Cool move! I don't know if Centramatic balancers fit on our bikes, but they do on my GL1800 Goldwing. They do an awesome job of balancing and eliminating vibration, and reduces nearly all cupping. No more pitching cupped tires with all that tread remaining, but certainly understand why you do.
 
Maybe you're already doing these things, but est your sag
I recently replaced my second A41 rear and first A41 front on my 2023 DL1050 at just under 12,000 Miles. All three tires, the two rears and one front, still had over 50% of their tread depth remaining at change. But all three tire‘s treads were getting very cupped. My riding is a mix of heavily loaded high speed freeway touring with full saddle bags and trunk, as well as spirited unloaded twisties. Yeah, i hate throwing away tires with 50%+ left on the tread depth, but i don’t like having cupped tires either. Btw, I purchased a tire machine and wheel balncer for the recent tire changes and changed them myself. With the previous tires, everything felt smooth to me, but my cross bar mounted GPS would vibrate noticeably above 80mph. When balancing the tires myself, a 10 gram weight was too little, and the next size up, a 15 gram, was too much. I took the 15 gram over to my belt sander and shaved it down to 13 grams. Guess what, my GPS stopped vibrating! There isn’t a shop anywhere that would have done that for a customer’s tires. They would have either used the 10 or the 15 and called it good.
Maybe you're already doing these things, but set the suspension sag for when heavily laden and again for when solo. Check your tire pressures often, and set for the proper spec (light or heavy) if more than one is listed. use a chain alignment tool when adjusting the chain, be sure the forks are at the same height-has fork oil been changed?
 
Finally had time to take the bike out with Road 5 at the rear. I think I prefer this setup. :)

The Road 5 seems to be a little sharper steering, and closer to what I was looking for in a sport touring tire.
 
One thing I noticed immediately is that my seat height increased significantly I would say, compared to my old A41s. I know there's a difference because new tires and all but it's pretty clear to me that the rear road 6 is much more rounded and taller than the A41 used to be. Maybe even the front.

A few days later ....

If anybody wants to know the thread depths:

4.5 mils on the front (4 until the wear mark)
6 on the back (5 until the wear mark)

Compared with the btx A41s (which is my only reference), the grip is amazeballs. Just came home from doing some twisties in the wet with a lot of asphalt snakes on them and I was mesmerized to see how grippy they are even in those conditions. With the A41s, same road and same conditions, I always had to go slower and I was feeling some slippage on the snakies every now and then, both on the front (good sphincter exercise) and on the rear. With the 6s, 0 slippage and faster speeds. Also they absorb the bumps better making for a smoother ride and I think they tip in easier in the turns but that might be done tire vs new. Another advantage from the better grip is when I brake harder down hill, the ABS on the rear almost never kicks in. With the A41s it would kick in a lot. The only downside for now is that they are noisier but since I ride with ear plugs and listen to music almost always, I really don't care. I just have to see how long they will last me.
 
Well I replaced my rear Bridgestone A41 at 6600 miles. Not because it needed it, I am sure it would have been both legal AND safe to 9000, but because I am on a cross country road trip and have close to 6000 more miles before I'm back home. It wouldn't have made it back home. Here are the pics of it at 6600 miles. Tell me what you think?
Got 9K out of mine(off showroom tires) and for the first time in my 55+biking years, BOTH tires wore perfect at same rate! So it was a no brainer to replace front and rear with same.
Current rides:
22 Suzy 1050
22Husky 501
24 CFMoto450ss
06 KLR650
 
I achieved 14,600 km (8000 miles) on my last Rod 6 rear, Present one is at 7,600 km and running nicely. But it is the front one that really impresses. Now at 21,000 km (13.125 miles) and is only half worn. I run 38/43 PSI pressures.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I achieved 14,600 km (8000 miles) on my last Rod 6 rear, Present one is at 7,600 km and running nicely. But it is the front one that really impresses. Now at 21,000 km (13.125 miles) and is only half worn. I run 38/43 PSI pressures.
Jantar, that's all good news. Just curious, why do you run such high pressures? Do you carry extra-heavy loads, or just like the extra-quick turn-in and ability to quickly flip from full-lean on one side to the opposite? The higher pressures reduce the contact patch and potential traction. FWIW, I have gone down to 34/40 psi. Turn-in is not as quick, but the extra traction is good. A fair compromise, for me. Thx
 
For me I like the higher pressure on the rear for suspension feeling. I am not a good enough rider (and don't regularly run routes where it would be obvious or relevant) to pick up turn-in changes. But, a higher preassure rear (I think I go for 44, or what ever the 2-person loaded number is on the swingarm) just feels better. I should probably be doing something else to the suspension to get a similar feeling, but modifying the tyre/un-sprung component of that works well enough for me.
 
Jantar, that's all good news. Just curious, why do you run such high pressures? Do you carry extra-heavy loads, or just like the extra-quick turn-in and ability to quickly flip from full-lean on one side to the opposite? The higher pressures reduce the contact patch and potential traction. FWIW, I have gone down to 34/40 psi. Turn-in is not as quick, but the extra traction is good. A fair compromise, for me. Thx
I attended a seminar run by suspension guru Dave Moss where he described how to determine the best tyre pressure to run on your bike. As a result those are the pressures I ended up with for the Road 6. Here is a video where he briefly touches on the subject.


I also paid him to properly set up my suspension and what a difference it made.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I attended a seminar run by suspension guru Dave Moss where he described how to determine the best tyre pressure to run on your bike. As a result those are the pressures I ended up with for the Road 6. Here is a video where he briefly touches on the subject.


I also paid him to properly set up my suspension and what a difference it made.
Jantar, that's really funny you mention Dave Moss and his approach. That's where I got my suspension set-up and tire pressure info too! Great stuff he produces. I will go back and look at what you sent. I recall Dave suggesting the lower psi for a larger contact patch. Thanks
 
Some 5000 kms later and the news are not that good when it comes to longevity. The front went from 4.5 mms to about 3.7 but the rear went from 6 all the way to about 2.5 on the center part and about 3.5 on the sides. I may or may not ride a bit aggressive :) It seems that I will use two rears for one front.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Some 5000 kms later and the news are not that good when it comes to longevity. The front went from 4.5 mms to about 3.7 but the rear went from 6 all the way to about 2.5 on the center part and about 3.5 on the sides. I may or may not ride a bit aggressive :) It seems that I will use two rears for one front.
That's what I'm experiencing too. I'm a spirited rider myself 🙂
 
That's what I'm experiencing too. I'm a spirited rider myself 🙂
what pressures are you using? I am currently going with the values written on the bike (2.5 front/ 2.9 rear). And incidentally, I find it weird that Suzuki is recommedning the same rear pressure for solo/pillion riding. On my old 650 I think it was 2.7 for solo and 2.9 for pillion. Bridgestone actually gives recommended values for their tires for every bike but I couldn't find anything on the Michelin site... The rear tire going out so fast would make me think that maaaaybe a higher pressure would be needed?
 
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