|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-13-2014 03:55 PM|
|rubenz||Sorry I was typing as you were posting I think. Thanks for clearing that up. I appreciate it.|
|05-13-2014 03:50 PM|
Originally Posted by everready View Post
|05-13-2014 03:27 PM|
|greywolf||The adjusters pull back on the wheel when they are tightened with the rear axle loosened. That reduces chain slack which increase with wear. Hardly anything will kill a chain faster than too little slack so I like the loose end of the spec. Then tighten the axle nut. Use anti seize on the threads and tighten to 58lb-ft or 80Nm to prevent seizing. Using he specs in the manual have resulted in the nut having to be cut off. Finally tighten the adjuster screws enough to keep the end caps snug but not enough to move the axle.|
|05-13-2014 03:11 PM|
|everready||You should re-read the thread. They are not adjusters. They apply tension because they pull the tire to the rear only.|
|05-13-2014 12:57 AM|
I know I'm bringing this post back from the dead but I have a question about the chain "adjusters" procedure. From what I gathered you basically loosen the adjusters, yank on the wheel until it is where you want it, then tighten the "adjusters" to hold the axel/wheel in place, then double check that the chain is running correctly in the center of the chain. Good?
I've only used the dirtbike style gradient adjusters before so this process is new to me and a bit confusing.
|04-23-2010 01:33 PM|
No, the right side is closer to the joint by .0825"
With mine properly adjusted, with 14T front sprocket and 14K miles on my chain, the left side shows about 4 1/2 marks, right side not quite 4 marks. The marks are about .125" apart.
Center of axle to joint on each side is left 1.9975", right 1.9150". This difference has been consistant throughout the life of both chains.
Bottom line is, the difference in axle center to joint end measurement, and identical last notch to joint end measurement says it all.
I just think it's an error in placement of the slot and marks on one side of the swingarm.
|04-22-2010 12:51 PM|
I just had another thought about this.....
Have any of you checked those "square silver washers" to see if that's where the irregularity is?
If the center hole is slightly larger than the axle on either or both of them...or if they are not stamped exactly the same....that seems like it could be a problem also.
I'll have a closer look when I change this tire again...which will be soon as I just remounted a take off tire last weekend that wasn't finished yet......
I believe jspoon has the right idea it may always be best to just adjust with an alignment gauge of some sort and ignore the marks.
|04-22-2010 02:11 AM|
I tried checking mine several ways and it seems OK.
Straight edge from rear sprocket, measured with make shift jig from singarm pivot to axle and measured from axle plate to end of swingarm.
Can you guys that have a notch discrepancy tell me if when you have the wheel in straight.....
Is the distance from that back edge of the silver plate (square washer) to where the joint between the swingarm and end plate meet is the same on both sides?
How about from the last notch to the end?
That may be an easy way for others to check if theirs are off or not simply by comparing the distance from that last notch to the end plate joint....if in fact you have a discrepancy there too.
Originally Posted by jspoon View Post
I have ridden a shaft drive street bike for so many years prior to this bike and my DR650 has the cams and that has seemed to be fine too......
|04-21-2010 09:05 PM|
|jspoon||Is it just me or shouldn't everyone have a $25 chain alignment gauge, it makes the job sooo much easier and accurate. Since the chain drive is an integral part of safety I just feel better knowing my chain is spinning happily!|
|04-21-2010 07:33 PM|
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