Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums - Reply to Topic
General V-Strom Discussion Talk about all things V-Strom not limited to just one of the above models

Thread: Chain adjuster cap loose Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-13-2014 03:55 PM
rubenz Sorry I was typing as you were posting I think. Thanks for clearing that up. I appreciate it.
05-13-2014 03:50 PM
rubenz
Quote:
Originally Posted by everready View Post
You should re-read the thread. They are not adjusters. They apply tension because they pull the tire to the rear only.
Yes I understand that they don't do any adjusting. I'm trying to understand how to adjust the axle/wheel before I apply tension. I need to adjust the chain after a new chain and sprocket installation so it sounds like I need to loosen the tensioners then pull the tire and axle to where I want it then cinch it down with the tensioners. Does that sound right?
05-13-2014 03:27 PM
greywolf The adjusters pull back on the wheel when they are tightened with the rear axle loosened. That reduces chain slack which increase with wear. Hardly anything will kill a chain faster than too little slack so I like the loose end of the spec. Then tighten the axle nut. Use anti seize on the threads and tighten to 58lb-ft or 80Nm to prevent seizing. Using he specs in the manual have resulted in the nut having to be cut off. Finally tighten the adjuster screws enough to keep the end caps snug but not enough to move the axle.
05-13-2014 03:11 PM
everready You should re-read the thread. They are not adjusters. They apply tension because they pull the tire to the rear only.
05-13-2014 12:57 AM
rubenz I know I'm bringing this post back from the dead but I have a question about the chain "adjusters" procedure. From what I gathered you basically loosen the adjusters, yank on the wheel until it is where you want it, then tighten the "adjusters" to hold the axel/wheel in place, then double check that the chain is running correctly in the center of the chain. Good?

I've only used the dirtbike style gradient adjusters before so this process is new to me and a bit confusing.

Thanks!
04-23-2010 01:33 PM
ozart
Quote:
Originally Posted by knybanjo View Post
I tried checking mine several ways and it seems OK.
but how does it look when you roll the tire?
Quote:
Can you guys that have a notch discrepancy tell me if when you have the wheel in straight.....
Is the distance from that back edge of the silver plate (square washer) to where the joint between the swingarm and end plate meet is the same on both sides?
Broke out the calipers and compass to take a few measurements.
No, the right side is closer to the joint by .0825"
Quote:
How about from the last notch to the end?
Same on both sides.
Quote:
That may be an easy way for others to check if theirs are off or not simply by comparing the distance from that last notch to the end plate joint....if in fact you have a discrepancy there too.
No discrepancy there on mine. Took the axle nut off to expose the oblong slot in the swingarm. The back of it to the "joint" is also the same on both sides.

With mine properly adjusted, with 14T front sprocket and 14K miles on my chain, the left side shows about 4 1/2 marks, right side not quite 4 marks. The marks are about .125" apart.
Center of axle to joint on each side is left 1.9975", right 1.9150". This difference has been consistant throughout the life of both chains.
Quote:
Originally Posted by knybanjo View Post
I just had another thought about this.....

Have any of you checked those "square silver washers" to see if that's where the irregularity is?

If the center hole is slightly larger than the axle on either or both of them...or if they are not stamped exactly the same....that seems like it could be a problem also.
The silver plates appeared to be the same except for hole diameter. Just to make sure, I put the axle in from the right side (which swapped plates). None of the mesurements changed.

Bottom line is, the difference in axle center to joint end measurement, and identical last notch to joint end measurement says it all.
I just think it's an error in placement of the slot and marks on one side of the swingarm.
04-22-2010 12:51 PM
knybanjo I just had another thought about this.....

Have any of you checked those "square silver washers" to see if that's where the irregularity is?

If the center hole is slightly larger than the axle on either or both of them...or if they are not stamped exactly the same....that seems like it could be a problem also.

I'll have a closer look when I change this tire again...which will be soon as I just remounted a take off tire last weekend that wasn't finished yet......

I believe jspoon has the right idea it may always be best to just adjust with an alignment gauge of some sort and ignore the marks.
04-22-2010 02:11 AM
knybanjo I tried checking mine several ways and it seems OK.

Straight edge from rear sprocket, measured with make shift jig from singarm pivot to axle and measured from axle plate to end of swingarm.

Can you guys that have a notch discrepancy tell me if when you have the wheel in straight.....
Is the distance from that back edge of the silver plate (square washer) to where the joint between the swingarm and end plate meet is the same on both sides?

How about from the last notch to the end?

That may be an easy way for others to check if theirs are off or not simply by comparing the distance from that last notch to the end plate joint....if in fact you have a discrepancy there too.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jspoon View Post
Is it just me or shouldn't everyone have a $25 chain alignment gauge, it makes the job sooo much easier and accurate. Since the chain drive is an integral part of safety I just feel better knowing my chain is spinning happily!
That's not a bad idea, I guess that I took it for granted that the marks were OK.

I have ridden a shaft drive street bike for so many years prior to this bike and my DR650 has the cams and that has seemed to be fine too......
04-21-2010 09:05 PM
jspoon Is it just me or shouldn't everyone have a $25 chain alignment gauge, it makes the job sooo much easier and accurate. Since the chain drive is an integral part of safety I just feel better knowing my chain is spinning happily!
04-21-2010 07:33 PM
SCraig
Quote:
Originally Posted by knybanjo View Post
... But since y'all are reporting the discrepancy I will definitely look into the matter a bit closer.
There have to be some somewhere that are right. Maybe you got one of them. All I know is that mine is a bit off.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome