Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums - Reply to Topic
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

Thread: More 1000 Rough Running issues! Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-21-2019 10:41 PM
Garagedoorman Beyond Patience + Frustration

I need to take a moment to pick up the pieces and remarshal my forces.

I asked myself, how I would deal with this if it was my Vee. I would call at least a few Sooo-zooo-key dealers to see if they know the problem or where to look.

Look extensively at the fuel system in the manual. Also test the coils as per the manual's procedure.

Is there anyone here on Stromtrooper that has been through this, that can help ?
07-21-2019 12:42 PM
Suzee Quorum Thank you all for the insights and sound suggestions.

I need to take a moment to pick up the pieces and remarshal my forces.
Bitter moment when I realized all of my labors have been for naught in solving the initial problem, although the bike surely needed a valve adjustment.

More to come-
07-21-2019 02:42 AM
bobbyvstrom Suzee, check my prior post. If you've had your airbox off, there's a chance one of the screws that holds it tight onto the injector body is getting in the way of your secondary throttle plate linkage and that really messes with things, even without the plates in the injectors. I've had mine messed up twice. The fix is easy. Just loosen and move the screws so they don't touch the linkage and retighten. Hard to see under there. Bobby
07-20-2019 06:28 PM
Suzee Quorum I did locate a manual to D/l finally. Used it on a laptop for reference when I reassembled the valves. Indispensable really.
07-20-2019 04:14 PM
Garagedoorman Wow what a bummer.

I went back and read this whole thread to see what you've done so far.

Here's a good video from a Suzuki factory mechanic on a TL tuning the TP.
https://youtu.be/NQMqN_7zL2M

'Like that video I run and work on my DL with the tank off. I made a harness for the fuel pump connector and use hose clamps with fuel line.
That's how I synced my throttle bodies.

At this point it would be easier if someone local would momentarily swap fuel tanks just to see if that brings your bike back to it's normal happy self.
The fuel pumps on these DL's are very complex.

The fuel rate is 1200ml for 60 sec if I remember correctly. It's in the manual.

Chapter 4 in the manual has tons of detailed information about the fuel system.

As far as testing the coils, there is a detailed procedure in the factory manual. It's in chapter 7 pages 7-19 and 7-20. I could post the pages or try to find out where I down loaded the manual from.



.
07-20-2019 03:34 PM
bobbyvstrom Suzee, going back in time a bit, did you do anything with the air box, like replace or clean your air filter, between the time you put the bike in the garage while it was running well and when you later fired it up and it was running poorly? Things rarely happen to bikes instantly. Usually, it's a gradual degradation of power or smoothness. You might also want to triple-check all the hoses under the tank and to the injectors, including the throttle-body connections. they can look OK at a glance but be just sitting on top of the manifold, not actually connected.
07-20-2019 01:32 PM
Suzee Quorum And the Suzuki Blues Roll on..

Received my 4 replacement shims from Rocky Mountain ATV Thursday. Immediately began to replace stock (temporary to recalibrate) shims with these..squeezed oil out of valve buckets by rotating crankcase rotor a few turns..and remeasured everything.
The new (4) shims were close to what I had targeted, which was 6000 on the Intake side (Factory recommendation is 4-8000). On the Exhaust side (8-12000) I measured around 10000 with the Go/No Go feeler gauge.
Then reassembled all, tightened heads, replaced gas tank and lines, flushed radiator with distilled water, refilled with coolant and remounted.
Turned bike over, which fired up immediately.
However.
The same power loss is there through all RPMS and all that is left is to recheck throttle body sync after the valve adjustment.
Then I am at an utter loss except for possibly bad spark plug wires or coil and I do not know how to test those. Both cylinders are firing.
The Motorcycle Jesus has abandoned me.
07-16-2019 09:18 AM
realshelby There are no followers or lifters on the Vee camtrain.

I like to use a go/no go feeler gauge that is a bit thicker than needed into the gap between the cam and bucket to squeeze oil out. Then measure exact gap.
07-16-2019 12:35 AM
Garagedoorman That's good to note about getting all the oil bled out of the follower or lifters. I have 7,000 more miles before I have to deal with a valve adjustment on the Vee.

The last shim type valve adjustment was on my Honda Blackbird. That wasn't to bad, I only had one head to deal with and only 3 exhaust valves were tight.
I just had to loosen the cam chain tensioner and move the cams out of the way a little bit. That motor had 76,000 miles at that time. I just sold it with 78,000 miles and it was still running like a swiss watch.
07-15-2019 10:07 PM
Suzee Quorum The Ballad of the DL1000 continued-

I did receive the 8 new shims ordered from RM ATV on Saturday. After installing and remeasuring all the clearances I realized the gaps were drastically different from what I expected the updated gaps to be.
Which meant that I did not rotate the engine several times to work all the oil out of the valve buckets..thus faulty gap readings.
I did manage to rearrange 4 new shims and achieve close to a center-of-recommended clearance on the Intake/Exhaust and the front cylinder is now good.
Ordered 4 more shims from RM ATV to complete the rear cylinder. Relube/reassemble/rotate and remeasure.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome