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Thread: Front Brake requires pumping Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-08-2019 09:57 AM
nhsnowbird My bike has ABS. I should have noted in my previous post that if you have ABS, you should find a safe place ( I use a nearby gravel parking lot) to CAREFULLY activate both your front and rear ABS a few times prior to bleeding. After bleeding it once, I again activate the ABS and bleed again. This is to ascertain that I have replaced as much of the brake fluid as I can. This method has worked very well for me and does not require a lot of time.
02-08-2019 09:43 AM
nhsnowbird In lieu of speed bleeders, I have found that removing the bleeders (I use the rubber bleeder cap to plug the threaded hole temporarily) and wrapping the threads with Teflon tape and re-inserting makes the job much easier. Then use either a Miti-Vac or an assistant to make the job easier.
01-09-2019 12:47 AM
dtalk In case it helps, I documented my experience with this problem:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/mainten...-solution.html

TL;DR: this bike (which I'm still riding after 11 years and 60k miles) is wonderful, but its brakes are just crappy. I tried everything imaginable to fix the inconsistent lever travel, including a complete rebuild of everything except the caliper bodies. In the end, replacing the entire brake calipers was the only real fix. I have no freaking idea why.

I no longer waste my time refurbishing them; I flush them annually, and completely replace them every 4-5 years. This bike has been so reliable that it really isn't very expensive to do this when amortized over its life, especially if you're doing the work yourself. (Then again, understand that my last bike was a BMW K75 which I calculated cost me roughly $1 per mile to ride, so my frame of reference may be a little crooked ...)

YMMV. Good luck!
01-07-2019 02:07 PM
Spec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratchet View Post
I just bought a 2013 V Strom 650 ABS. The front brake lever goes most of the way to the hand grip before the brakes grab. If I release the lever and pull it again, the brake is applied much farther out from the handlebar. The brakes do not feel spongy indicating air in the lines.

Since this is a new purchase, I'm going to go over the bike completely, bleed and flush the brakes, coolant, etc. including an oil change, lubing the chain and more.

Is the brake feel normal (as someone told me) or does this sound like something a complete flush will remedy. All brakes on bikes before this one have been consistently firm with an engagement point that did not change from the first to multiple pulls.

Yea bleed the brakes and check the pistons and stuff like everybody is saying.

Thing is though the 650 brakes aren't firm compared to a bike with really good brakes. I spent a few years on the 650 before going to a Gen 2 1000. Front brakes are night and day in regards to power and feel at the lever.

Some change out the 650's 2 pot calipers for 4 pots and switch out the master cylinder That would probably be the solution to get better brakes on the 650. Type of fluid, pads, lines, etc. aren't going to make much of an improvement, IMO.
01-07-2019 11:23 AM
PerazziMx14
Quote:
Originally Posted by notacop View Post
https://kirbysbrakebleeders.ecrater.com/

If you're going to bleed the brakes, this makes it easy, one person job.
Or a $3.60 ml syringe and $0.01 in 1/4 aquarium tubing and reverse bleed the brakes make it the easiest and most effective means.
01-07-2019 11:17 AM
notacop https://kirbysbrakebleeders.ecrater.com/

If you're going to bleed the brakes, this makes it easy, one person job.
01-07-2019 09:07 AM
Motor7 When you change the fluid I have gone to either Super DOT 4, or DOT 5.1. Both have a higher boiling point that DOT 3, so better performance when really hot or overheated.

Chart:
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ison-chart.cfm

I recently had a spongy front also, replaced all fluid with Super DOT 4 and changed the HH pads out to Ferodo:

https://www.motosport.com/ferodo-sintered-st-brake-pads

I reverse bleed the system and make sure you get all the DOT 3 fluid out since combining/mixing DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 can possibly cause master or caliper failure. The front brake lever is now firm like it is supposed to be and I like the Ferodo's over the EBC HH's.
01-07-2019 03:56 AM
MAZ4ME
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatchi View Post
If there is no spongy feeling, then it's not air. It's likely one or more caliper pistons are sticking and need to be cleaned and lubed.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Not necessarily.
I had a Harley V-rod come to me with such a soft spongy lever it was dangerous to ride. The issue was.. caliper piston seals sticking to the pistons and retracting them into the caliper bores when the lever was released. Found by being able to insert a .025" feeler gauge between the brake pads and the rotor 5 seconds after brake application sitting in my garage. The pistons themselves were free, but the seals kept pulling them back into the bore. Talking with the local H-D dealer's parts guy, he told me this was a very common situation, caused by brake dust on the outer seals.
The repair was to replace the the piston seals. I have had pistons stuck in the caliper bores from old fluid and rust, but the symptom was dragging brakes pads and overheated rotors not a spongy lever. This H-D used silicone fluid(H-D recommended), and the spongy lever wasnt from boiling fluid from overworked brakes when hot.
01-07-2019 02:49 AM
PeteW Cleaning the caliper and pistons is worth doing, for some reason the 650 pistons are crap magnets, particularly for small pieces of tar coated gravel from new seal.

eBay rotors are relatively inexpensive if it's a warped rotor.

Wheel bearings are also a possibility.

Another possibility - aka the nightmare scenario. Crap in the ABS valve. Symptoms there are if you get the brakes firm and hold them the lever slowly heads for the bars. That's sometimes fixable.
01-07-2019 02:40 AM
Grimmer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogges View Post
I can think of three possible explanations:
1) line needs to be bled
2) small leak in the system or
3) a warped rotor pushes your brake piston back enough that you need to pump it back
You would feel oscillations with 3) while breaking. More likely one of the first two. 1) could come from old brake fluid having attracted water. Heat from braking creates water vapor, so this will reoccur even after bleeding until the contaminated fluid has need replaced. If there is really no trace of sponginess at all then you might have a leak but this would show eventually by reduced fluid in the reservoir.
This happened to me, but it was a loose axle nut allowing the entire wheel assembly to move back and forth enough to push the brake pistons back. Something to check: Axle nut and pinch bolts, bearings and spacers.
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