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Thread: Chain rivet flare - is this adequate? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-09-2018 11:56 PM
MAZ4ME The way to damage a pin during flaring is to get it off-center as you tighten the tool.
07-09-2018 11:16 PM
Scorch
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatchi View Post
Because you can crack the flare and/or bind the link.

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How do you crack the flare if the tool has a built in stop?
07-09-2018 10:59 PM
MAZ4ME If you use the right tool you dont need to measure anything. The peining will be machine-perfect each and every time.
07-09-2018 10:45 PM
Hatchi Because you can crack the flare and/or bind the link.

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07-09-2018 09:52 PM
Scorch
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatchi View Post
DID specs

16a. FLARE DIMENSIONS
05.4mm to 5.6mm .............520V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................532ZLV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERV3
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM-X
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VX2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525VM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ATV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VT2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520DZ2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520MX
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERT2
5.7mm to 6.0mm................*525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X, 525VX & 530VX
*Note: Make sure that the Cutting pin has a groove if you are riveting the 525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X,
525VX and 530VX chains. These
Ok, thanks for that, so mine is pretty close, I feel better now.



Quote:
Originally Posted by vanislejay View Post
Almost all the chain riveting tools do have a stop, on mine, it's in the design of the riveting pin. The end of the pin is a half dome and then a flat lip that is wider than the dome and the same diameter as the body of the pin. You press until the lip of the pin around the dome is flush and that's your gauge.
Ah, I see, yeah, that makes sense...but why do so many sites caution the user from overflaring the rivet??
07-09-2018 12:35 PM
BSSTROM I would paint them fuschia to give them even more flare!
07-09-2018 12:32 PM
Hatchi DID specs

16a. FLARE DIMENSIONS
05.4mm to 5.6mm .............520V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................532ZLV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERV3
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM-X
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VX2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525VM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ATV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VT2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520DZ2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520MX
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERT2
5.7mm to 6.0mm................*525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X, 525VX & 530VX
*Note: Make sure that the Cutting pin has a groove if you are riveting the 525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X,
525VX and 530VX chains. These


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
07-09-2018 11:18 AM
vanislejay Almost all the chain riveting tools do have a stop, on mine, it's in the design of the riveting pin. The end of the pin is a half dome and then a flat lip that is wider than the dome and the same diameter as the body of the pin. You press until the lip of the pin around the dome is flush and that's your gauge.
07-08-2018 05:57 PM
MAZ4ME Scorch, I have 2 of these DID Chain tools, use them all the time. A couple of things: 1) If I am replacing the chain I dont use the tool to push out a pin--I use a pneumatic cutoff wheel to slice through both side plates of a link and the chain is off in 45 seconds tops. If you need to reuse the chain, then I'll grind the pin ends flush with the side plate and use the tool's pusher pin to separate the chain. A new DID master link, and I'm back in business. In both instances I lock the rear tire with a wood block through the spokes and against the swingarm, transmission in neutral, then loosen the countershaft sprocket nut. If you have a 1 1/16" wrench or a large Crescent wrench and a 1/2" drive 19mm(3/4") socket and ratchet, youre there.
The 1st couple of times you really have to pay attention as to where the pin will come out, nd where to place the pin heads while pressing on the side plate. The "A" and "B" positions and whether the tool is right-side up or upside-down are the keys to this.
But once youve mastered it, it's literally a 5-minute operation. Here ya GO!
07-08-2018 05:04 PM
Scorch
Quote:
Originally Posted by STCorndog View Post
That looks pretty good. Are they both the same diameter? Does the link move freely?

I would measure mine for you, but I am on a Tenere now........
Haha, show off. How I wish there was a shaft version of the Strom.

Yes, it moves freely, and they are not identical but fairly close.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
I use the D.I.D. KM500 Chain Tool, and with it you simply cant over-flare it. To get it into peining mode, tighten the tool 'til it stops...and DONE, a perfect inverted bowl shape every time. The same tool doesnt allow pressing the side plate on too far either, as it has a measured channel that serves as a stop. This stop provides the correct protrusion for the subsequent flaring operation.
I wish I had known about that tool before. I have the Motion Pro PBR, it works pretty well but does not have a "stop".
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