|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-25-2017 04:11 AM|
|aTuWitty||OK- I did the external filter mod on my last K3, that will be the next thing I do. I just find it odd that it didn't have the issue prior to the stator magnet fix. Weird!|
|09-22-2017 11:16 AM|
See the appropriate sticky threads at Fuel Injection
The fuel flow test and external fuel filter mod may be especially on point.
|09-22-2017 02:38 AM|
|Big B||Disconnect the power commander.....Its an 03 and would likely be a good idea to check fuel flow test from the pump.|
|09-22-2017 02:24 AM|
Thanks again. I scraped off the old gasket yesterday (my least favorite part in all of my mechanicking journeys), spread some gasket seal on both sides of the new gasket, put it on, and let it cure. Got home tonight and loaded it up with oil and installed the sprocket cover and clutch slave cylinder. Oddly, there were two small dowel pins whose origin I was unsure of sitting on the ground. The main dowel pin in the stator cover was in, as were the two for the sprocket cover. I installed the slave cylinder, but found that the lower, longer bolt would not rest securely against the slave cylinder, so that when I pulled the clutch, it would pop out a bit. I used one of these dowel pins as a spacer against the head of the bolt so that it would hold it down securely. I don't remember doing this when I changed the front sprocket a few years ago...
Now, for the fun part. Battery with bike off showed 12.05 volts. Bike fired right up, showed 14.5 volts (vs 12.6 before I rearranged and JB Welded the magnets). After a few minutes of idling, I shut the bike off, and the battery was at 13 volts- awesome. However, the bike does NOT want to rev above 7.5k RPM! Taking it up there results in a serious hiccup and the lost of a thousand RPMs before it picks back up.
My first thought was that the ECU/Power Commander may have been wonky from the low voltage and now that it's back up to normal voltage it's pushing too much fuel into the cylinders... very confusing. It didn't have this problem a few weeks ago when I started on the project.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
|09-19-2017 09:26 PM|
|realshelby||The holes are not even in the replacement rotors. No worries.|
|09-19-2017 04:10 AM|
|greywolf||The only problem I can imagine with that is if the amounts of epoxy are so irregularly spaced as to put the rotor out of balance.|
|09-19-2017 03:53 AM|
|aTuWitty||Thank you, Pat and Terry! Also- I may or may not have covered up the rotor holes with the magnets rather than leaving them open. I'm assuming this also isn't a problem, as the holes had been covered for who knows how long since the magnets all bunched up, but I might as well ask here rather than risk some epic failure down the road!|
|09-17-2017 09:53 AM|
You should be fine the way you done it. Early on in the "JB Weld" fix many owners would put a layer under the magnets. That caused problems. If you don't squeeze about all of it out ( which is not all that easy ) then the magnets would catch on the stator poles. Not good.
Since then there have been many that just cleaned things up and built a bridge between the magnets with JB Weld. Just try to get a fairly equal amount between them. I know of no failures when done correctly to start with.
I would do this to a brand new rotor before installing it.
|09-17-2017 09:14 AM|
|Old Time Rider||This place is good for know how. I am sure not a great wrench by a long shot but try to do most my own and have done a little for friends. Elc. is my weak spot and all advice welcome.|
|09-17-2017 12:15 AM|
|greywolf||That should do it. The magnets stick to the rotor by magnetic force and they won't climb over the JB- Weld.|
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