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DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

Thread: Clutch stopped working... Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-19-2018 11:05 PM
V-Tom Okay followup on this. It looks like it was stupidity on my part and if I had followed the advice I usually give I would have solved it quickly.

Bottom line was that the bolts holding in the slave cylinder were not done up properly. I was sure I hard checked them but either I didn't or I did and there are more serious issues. There were some sketchy weather patterns around here last week so didn't ride and didn't check it out. Looked today and saw the two bolts were lose. One was really loose and the slave cylinder unit could rock a bit when the clutch lever was pulled.

Anyway hopefully that solves it. Whether I ride Tues and get to check it depends on how bad the "flurries" are in the morning.

11-11-2018 04:27 PM
MAZ4ME Thank you!
But I have to say....I get much more out of this forum than I give. The wealth of knowledge and experience from everybody here is truly amazing.
We all learn from eachother.
11-11-2018 04:09 PM
Originally Posted by V-Tom View Post
You re a great asset to us here! Thanks!

Thanks MAZ4ME
11-08-2018 04:32 PM
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
What Ive done in those cases is to
You re a great asset to us here! Thanks!

11-08-2018 02:41 PM
MAZ4ME What Ive done in those cases is to remove the banjo bolt and use a 10mm or 12mm bolt, nut, and a copper sealing washer on each side of the line's banjo fitting.
The best way is that to take a banjo bolt to an auto parts store and get a nut for it and 2 sealing washers for the line banjo fitting ends. Te usual thread pitch is Metric 1.0.
At the master cylinder you can get a shorter bolt to replace the banjo bolt, and again, using copper sealing rings eliminate the line for testing purposes.
11-08-2018 01:58 PM
IDRIDR @MAZ4ME , so I have a SS Galfer kit to install, +2" to accommodate bar risers. I'm mention not to use the vice-grip clamp off pliers on SS. What would be used then for diagnosis?
11-08-2018 01:51 PM
V-Tom I was just thinking that I put risers for my handlebar a few months after getting this bike. To do so I needed longer hydraulic lines. The ones I got were braided stainless so no pinching off the line. (Just went out to my bike to verify.)

11-08-2018 01:11 PM
MAZ4ME Tom, GLAD to lend a hand.
Ive also monitored oxygen sensor readings while pinching off vacuum hoses to locate vacuum leaks, used pinch off pliers on hoses when removing cooling system components to prevent spillage, etc.
11-08-2018 12:50 PM
V-Tom I work at a dealership... I'll see if I can borrow a set from a tech.


11-08-2018 12:43 PM
MAZ4ME Tom, I'm not telling you to crush or damage the hose. Clamp off pliers are excellent tools for brake and fuel system diagnosis.
Many years ago I attended a Raybestos brake seminar. The instructor asked the group what was the singular most important brake tool in their tool boxes. Bleeder wrenches, spring tools, etc were mentioned. Then this guy pulls out a pair of Vise Grip clamp-off pliers, and explained its use. Stuck with me ever since and used all the time.
Let say you have a vehicle come in with a low brake pedal. Typically you'd bleed calipers/cylinders at all 4 wheels. Still no good. Then...I'd take 4 clamp off pliers, one on each brake hose, and apply the brakes.
Hard as a rock. Then I knew the problem was not in the master cylinder. Take off one pliers--slight drop, but Ok Then the next--slight drop, again OK. Next pliers, remove and pedal drops to the floor. THAT RIGHT THERE identifies the problem area. Same deal on motorcycles EXCEPT I wouldnt be using this diagnostic method on stainless steel hoses.
There are other hose clamp-off tools, some made of fiberglass-impregnated p[lastic, all have rounded jaws to prevent hose damage. I prefer the Vise-grip clamp-offs with the rounded jaws--you install cutoffs and tighten them a little at a time to stop fluid flow.
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