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DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

Thread: Spark Plug Change at 7500 miles Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-01-2015 09:19 AM
TLR Junkie
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRM View Post
TLR, interesting point on the twin-eletrode plugs, do you remember the part number you used?

Also, am I missing anything about accessing the second plug on the front cylinder behind the radiator?

Thanks, TRM
NGK CR8-EK. You can also use CR9-EK as per the holy book, if required. This is for a 2002 Vee anyway. The K in the plug code denotes twin electrode.

My TL1000R used to have a nasty habit of fouling up the iridiums, and it got on my nerves. It was completely stock; valves, TPS & TB synch properly adjusted. Coils / HT leads / Plug caps in good OEM condition, fuel pump working properly, OEM exhaust with no leaks. It just didn't like those plugs. As the K2 DL1000 isn't a million miles apart from the TL1000R, the Iridiums came straight out and the CR8-EK's went straight in

On the K2 the front radiator can just be swung out the way, but you have to remove the splash cover and jiggle it a bit. A bit of a faff, but saves draining the coolant to remove the rad. Not sure on the latest model. Ask me when I've bought one
03-30-2015 05:14 PM
KS_Jetta
Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
NGK plugs have coated threads. They won't stick and don't need anti seize. http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf
I appreciate that coating, but on my old weestrom, water from riding in the rain and washing would get down below the boot causing corrosion. The plugs were not easy to get out and I was concerned I would ruin the threads in the head - same thing on the NGK plugs in my Subaru. I took them out every 15k, inspect, gap, or replace and put some anti-seize on them prior to re-installing - and then sleep better. YMMV
03-28-2015 04:49 PM
VtSTROM-K5
Bullet proof.....Maybe?

On my Vee1 I checked the Valves and adjusted them @ 17+k ...Checked again at 50+k no adj. needed , again @ 72k & again @ 93k ... So after initial adj. it never needed anything adjusted again.. as I'm sitting here looking at the Vee1 , It still has OEM Headlight bulbs & Tail/Brake bulbs along with the OEM installed plugs....I do my Oil + Filter changes @ 7500miles
Use Jaso MA rated oil in all my bikes....
I hope the Vee-2 is as dependable !!!
03-26-2015 11:46 AM
HokiesRWee I think I remember Ozart saying his original OEM (non Iridium) plugs were going strong at 50K + miles. My bike is running fine at nearly 30K miles. Am thinking of checking, for the first time, the valves at 30K miles. Can't decide whether to just clean, gap and reinstall the existing plugs or to buy new plugs. The cost of the plugs isn't an issue. Just don't like buying things I really don't need.

Interesting information about the NGK plugs too GW. I was unaware...

Thanks for posting that.
03-26-2015 10:03 AM
greywolf Iridium plugs are better than the twin electrode plugs that came stock on the Vee. Iridiums last 50,000 miles.
03-26-2015 09:59 AM
TRM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLR Junkie View Post
11Nm on the DL1000; I changed mine last weekend. 11Nm is apparently 8.1 ft.lbs according to Google.

I took out the Iridiums that were fitted (22k mile bike when purchased a couple of weeks ago) and replaced them with the proper twin-electrode plugs.

My TL-1000R (which I had for almost seven years) ran like a bag o' shit with Iridiums hence changing them straight away on the DL.
TLR, interesting point on the twin-eletrode plugs, do you remember the part number you used?

Also, am I missing anything about accessing the second plug on the front cylinder behind the radiator?

Thanks, TRM
03-26-2015 06:06 AM
TLR Junkie 11Nm on the DL1000; I changed mine last weekend. 11Nm is apparently 8.1 ft.lbs according to Google.

I took out the Iridiums that were fitted (22k mile bike when purchased a couple of weeks ago) and replaced them with the proper twin-electrode plugs.

My TL-1000R (which I had for almost seven years) ran like a bag o' shit with Iridiums hence changing them straight away on the DL.
03-25-2015 07:47 PM
TRM Great info here, I'm doing my 7500 service now and am trying to pull the plugs to inspect, not replace. Anyone know the torque spec for when I put them back in? I've seen 8 ft lbs, sound right?

Also, any tricks to getting to the one behind the radiator? I tried loosening the top bolts as well but my hands barely fit behind it. I may remove the top bolts but is looks like the radiator hose is limiting how far I can pull it out.

Thanks for the help, TRM in SA
02-13-2015 05:22 PM
greywolf NGK plugs have coated threads. They won't stick and don't need anti seize. http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf
02-13-2015 04:59 PM
ToadRide For what it's worth, if I see mine looking kinda worn after 20 to 30 tho, I change em. I remember reading about some left in a Benz for 100000 and the dissimilar metals welded themselves together. That could be a fable but still...
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