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Thread: need help! Bike will not start again. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-28-2013 09:45 AM
G8RNAV I finally have my WEE back.... After doing the checks as mentioned by Greywolf, and his last reply on 29 July. I got on line and started to look for an OEM Stator. Well I got a call from the shop asking if they can pick up the bike and rectify this problem, being this would be the 4th stator replacement since April.
I agreed and they came and picked up my WEE. The Mech. said they will change both the Stator & the Rectifier. I agreed... I was looking at my past bills from April, and noticed that the rectifier was changed also in Apr. along with an after market stator. When I checked the part # of the rectifier it was for a Suzuki Boulevard! SO... all my problems could have been avoided if only I checked in April the parts they put on and took off. My Mech only showed me
the bad Stator, but never the bad rectifier. After arguing the wrong rectifier installment in Apr., I got out of the shop only paying for parts. They ate the labor, I'll never go back again.
Greywolf...you were right they were guessing. The funny thing about it is they were the cause of my electric problems in the first place by using the wrong rectifier.
07-29-2013 01:44 PM
greywolf They're guessing. Believe me, the problem was the aftermarket stator. There isn't a good one out there.
07-29-2013 01:33 PM
G8RNAV Here is the rest of the story...

SO, after doing the checks as suggested by Greywolf, the stator was the issue once again. I had the bike towed back to the house from work, and after talking to my mech., they came and picked up the bike. After they did what they do, they came to the same conclusion! THE STATOR, again! Mind you all this is the second one within nine months. Now after reading this forum when the stator went up the first time, I made sure my oil was just a bit higher then normal to disperse the heat of the coils. The mech at the shop found the problem to be the R/R. The stator was fried but some how the main culprit was the R/R.
Anyway, they are covering all the labor new Stator, gasket, I'll be on the hook for a new R/R minus labor.

Thanks for all you help with my charging issues.
07-22-2013 07:14 PM
G8RNAV I will check that when I get to work in the morning. I will let you know what I find out.
07-22-2013 06:05 PM
greywolf The battery is good. The charging system is bad. Almost certainly, 99%, it's the stator. If you need to check for sure, test any 2 of the three yellow or black wires from the stator. Each pairing should provide over 60VAC.
07-22-2013 05:40 PM
kiwi_outdoors
spark

take out one good spark plug, reconnect it connected to its spark plug wire. Put an old plug back inthe cylinder head.

Start engine - use insulated pump pliers or similar to hold the removed plug body to engine body - does spark look healthy?

There are other ways to do this stest - but you get what I mean.
07-22-2013 05:28 PM
G8RNAV Here are the readings:

On the bench: 13.25
on the bike/hooked up:13.25
Started: 12.28

Put it in gear, bike died when releasing the clutch. No power above 2000rpms
cannot do the charging test like in the DR. V-Strom vid?

What now?
07-22-2013 12:35 PM
greywolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by G8RNAV View Post
What else could I check to see if it the Stator, the R/R, or just a bad battery?
Assuming the battery takes a charge, report the voltmeter readings on the battery with engine running and not running. We'll take it from there. If you can't start the engine after having the battery on the charger, replace the battery.
07-22-2013 12:13 PM
G8RNAV the shop treats me good... but this will be the second time i will be in there for this problem. The wifey is pissed and has lost faith in them. I am ready to throw in the towel with them also. I dont think they would have an issue if I brought it back. I just dont want to fork out any more $$$ to them if they are not fixing the whole problem.

I did the battery check, and the battery is dead. it's on the charger now as we speak. Hopefully after work I will put it back in and give it a go.

What else could I check to see if it the Stator, the R/R, or just a bad battery?
07-22-2013 12:04 PM
greywolf Aftermarket stators are famous for being short lived, much worse than the iffy enough OEM ones. Charge the battery to get some working time. Start the engine and put a voltmeter on the battery terminals. You should see 13.5V-14.8V but I'll bet you don't. What guarantee does the shop provide for its work?

Since the stator problems I've seen all happened near the top, I make sure my oil level is always at the full mark to provide as much cooling as possible.
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