Gear behaviour - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-09-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Gear behaviour

Maybe a silly question for you experienced drivers, but for me coming from a cars H-shift, the sequential MC-gear is quite different. Please bear with me and help me get more wise on this (-:

1) Gears are not synchronized, so you do not need to stand still in order to go to 1st gear - actually it is easier to roll while shifting?

2) Going from 1st to 2nd is a bit hard for me as I sometimes just puts it in neutral... What is the trick? Just pull hard?

3) When going from 6th to 1st... what do you guys do? Do you downshift and release clutch in most of the gears you pass on the way down?

4) Going from 3rd to 2nd sometimes feels weird as I feel it sometimes doesn't really gets into 2nd until I release the clutch. Then the display goes from 3 to 2 and I hear a small click from the gearbox.

5) Going from neutral to first (in standstill) often makes a large "clunk" noise. I hear it from other bikes as well... I just feel that this can't be correct and I will damage the gearbox. But nothing much to do about it I guess(?)

6) Sometimes going from neutral to 1st produce many clicking sounds. Like "click'e, click'e, click'e, click'e, click'e, click'e" until it reaches and stays in 1st. This is ok?

Regards, Lars.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-09-2019, 04:41 PM
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Practice, practice, practice. it will become second nature after a while. Some transmissions are clunkier than others.
Sometimes blipping the throttle can help match engine speed to gear speed when changing gears.
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-09-2019, 04:45 PM
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#2 yes, pull hard. The vstrom trans is a clunky thing and it is a lot easier to get into neutral accidentally than any other bike i have ridden.

#3 other than after a full on panic stop, why would you ever downshift from 6 to 1? Give yiur brakes a break, the joy of a manual tranmission is compression braking and not really needing to use your brakes for a lot of situations.

#5 is normal
#6 is not normal, kick it down harder.

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Last edited by oldjeep; 09-09-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-11-2019, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonne View Post
Maybe a silly question for you experienced drivers, but for me coming from a cars H-shift, the sequential MC-gear is quite different. Please bear with me and help me get more wise on this (-:

1) Gears are not synchronized, so you do not need to stand still in order to go to 1st gear - actually it is easier to roll while shifting?
At times the gears may feel stuck, especially at a stop if you didnt downshift all the way. I usually let out the clutch a hair while shifting and it will pop in (if not moving)

2) Going from 1st to 2nd is a bit hard for me as I sometimes just puts it in neutral... What is the trick? Just pull hard?
Going from first to second you always have to be deliberate. Be firm, you'll get the hang of it

3) When going from 6th to 1st... what do you guys do? Do you downshift and release clutch in most of the gears you pass on the way down?

4) Going from 3rd to 2nd sometimes feels weird as I feel it sometimes doesn't really gets into 2nd until I release the clutch. Then the display goes from 3 to 2 and I hear a small click from the gearbox.

5) Going from neutral to first (in standstill) often makes a large "clunk" noise. I hear it from other bikes as well... I just feel that this can't be correct and I will damage the gearbox. But nothing much to do about it I guess(?)

6) Sometimes going from neutral to 1st produce many clicking sounds. Like "click'e, click'e, click'e, click'e, click'e, click'e" until it reaches and stays in 1st. This is ok?I think overall you're being too easy. Again, be deliberate.

Regards, Lars.
When downshifting, you'll get the hang of what rpm's shift best. When upshifting, you will want to start preloading the shifter. You can read up on it, but it basically entails putting slight pressure on the shifter before pulling the clutch in. When you pull in the clutch continue further with that shift pressure, but fully now and in close proximity. Do not wait to shift after pulling in the clutch.

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post #5 of 7 Old 09-11-2019, 04:25 PM
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You need to ensure the gear leaver returns to the zero position between changes.

If your gear leaver position is not right for the boots your wearing or if your concentrating on your next gear sometimes the leaver is not left to go back to zero so you can't get the next gear.

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post #6 of 7 Old 09-11-2019, 08:46 PM
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Hi Lars,
In giving advice it helps to know what bike, what year, what mileage, and where you are. Please go to your UserCP and add some details.

All of what you describe can be normal and corrected by technique however making sure that your clutch is correctly adjusted can make a big difference to gear changing issues.

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post #7 of 7 Old 09-13-2019, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERockJL View Post
When downshifting, you'll get the hang of what rpm's shift best. When upshifting, you will want to start preloading the shifter. You can read up on it, but it basically entails putting slight pressure on the shifter before pulling the clutch in. When you pull in the clutch continue further with that shift pressure, but fully now and in close proximity. Do not wait to shift after pulling in the clutch.
Yes, I get it. I even figured out how to shift without using clutch

Regards, Lars.
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