Radiator overflow flange - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-18-2019, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator overflow flange

Hi all,
While working on something else on my 2009 650, I realized that the radiator overflow hose was just hanging off.
I have a problem with my radiator overflow flange that is disconnected or came away from the radiator leaving a nice hole where it fits just under the radiator cap. The aluminum flange stayed in the hose. I took the flange out of the hose and tried to see if I could get it back into the radiator, but it doesn't screw in. It looks like it may have originally been put in like a rivet.
Not sure what to do now. Any ideas? All are most welcome
Thanks
Danny C.
The picture shows the hole near the top of the radiator just below where the cap sits and you can see the flange at the end of the hose sticking out after I put it back in the hose.
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-18-2019, 08:48 PM
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I just checked my 2008 650 best I could with nothing removed except for the rad cap. I'm no expert on rads but I think you are going to have to remove it (the rad) and see if you can get that overflow pipe brazed back on. I don't think there are any threads or rivets that originally held it in place.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-19-2019, 12:00 AM
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Danny, this is outside the pressurized part of the system, so there is no mechanical stress on that connection, just needs to be watertight and take the temperature. If you don't want to take it to a radiator shop I would try to glue it back in with JB-Weld. Check on e-bay and see what they want for a used one, maybe cheaper then getting it fixed?
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-19-2019, 12:52 AM
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I'm with Blaustrom it only needs to seal enough to stop any overflow leaking out and seal enough that there is no air leak when the overflow is being sucked back in.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-19-2019, 01:29 AM
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Metal JB weld should do it if you can get it to stick. rough up the surfaces first then lay a thin coat of it. Way a day, lightly sand then a second coat and that should do it.
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-19-2019, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick replies.
I will try the JB weld solution and hopefully that will be enough
Much appreciated.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-27-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all,
Just an update because the JB Weld didn't work. After a nice 2 hour ride I got home with some leaking fluid only to see the hose disconnected. I believe that's because there wasn't enough of the nipple on the inside to get well adhered.
So I headed to the hardware store to see what I could find I found some aluminum rivets that I could remove the nail from and use the flanged part but the hole of the rivet was a bit too narrow. So I went over to the plumbing section and found a very nice part that looked like it would do. I wanted something I could put in from inside of the radiator and have a lip to hold it in place.
I used more JB Weld from the inside to prevent leaking and hold it in place. As for the hose side, the diameter was a bit smaller and there was no lip so I added some JB Weld on the outside to provide a bit of a grip and lip to help stop the hose from slipping off. I also used a micro clamp to get a better and tighter seal around the hose. A 3 hr test ride and no leaks!!! Definitely a solution for anyone that has the same issue.
See the pictures below.
Ride safe.
Danny C.
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File Type: jpg IMG_8937.jpg (75.9 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8938.jpg (53.3 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8923.jpg (63.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8925.jpg (79.7 KB, 1 views)
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-27-2019, 01:49 PM
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Good job, Danny.
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-27-2019, 04:37 PM
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Danny,

sounds great but I would carefully watch that area. My concern would be electrolytic contact corrosion given the different electronegativity of the different metals involved in this setup: Al, Cu, Zn

I would plan on having this professionally fixed by a radiator shop in the off season. If contact corrosion is happening, it's not happening over night but over time it could eat away metal around the contact areas.

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post #10 of 15 Old 07-27-2019, 08:06 PM
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Blaustrom, the JB Weld may act as an insulator as it creeps around the parts as it sets up and prevent the electrolysis?
The lip on the ferrel could help prevent leaks too.
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