2011 650A Electrical/Starting Problem - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-25-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 2011 650A Electrical/Starting Problem

I have a problem with my 2011 650A. I've owned her since new and have right at 10,000 miles on her. She's been a flawlessly reliable, no-fuss bike until now and I have some kind of electrical problem I'm trying to figure out.

I have installed a new battery, but the problem started before I replaced the battery. I can turn on the switch, flip the run/start to run, pull in the clutch, but then I get nothing when I hit the start button. Not even a click; just nothing. The headlights come on, gauges are active, I even hear the fuel pump prime.

About six months ago, I was riding at slow speed and the engine suddenly died. It didn't sputter or give any warning, just OFF. I pulled over and had the same problem I'm having now. Start button did NOTHING. After a few minutes, it started back up and ran fine for the rest of the week. It did the same thing one other time, but again fixed itself after a few minutes. I thought maybe there was an issue with the kick stand safety switch, so I put it in neutral and still nothing, so I think I've ruled that one out.

I'm thinking only a few things it could be:
- Start button has failed
- Starter solenoid has failed
- Another safety switch somewhere?

Considering that I've only got 10,000 miles on it and I'm not getting ANYTHING from the start button, I don't think it's a problem with the starter.

Anybody else had this problem? Anything I should check?

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post #2 of 10 Old 04-26-2019, 02:59 AM
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Have you checked the clutch switch, for the inter unable to start or as you stated, the starter button?
There could be two different faults which may confuse, one the inter unable to start (maybe clutch switch or starter button) and two, the cutting out while at slow speed riding (maybe rpm too low in too high a gear).
See a good write-up on the starter button https://blacklabadventures.com/2012/...h-maintenance/
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Last edited by Gert; 04-26-2019 at 03:02 AM. Reason: link added
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-26-2019, 07:24 PM
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I had an issue VERY much like this. For me, the bolts holding my battery in were either loose, or they were vibrating loose while riding. I noticed it last time cause I tried to take the battery out to trickle charge, assuming a low battery, and realized it was just a little too easy to loosen up the terminal bolt. So I tightened them instead, and it fired right up.

If anything, it's super easy to check.

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post #4 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gert View Post
Have you checked the clutch switch, for the inter unable to start or as you stated, the starter button?
There could be two different faults which may confuse, one the inter unable to start (maybe clutch switch or starter button) and two, the cutting out while at slow speed riding (maybe rpm too low in too high a gear).
See a good write-up on the starter button https://blacklabadventures.com/2012/...h-maintenance/
I have ruled out the clutch switch. I bypassed the clutch safety switch last night, but I still have the same problem.

I opened up the start button, but it looks like there are four wires going to it and no visible contactors to clean. Maybe I didn't open it up far enough in the short time I had for troubleshooting. I'll pop it open again tonight.

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post #5 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 07:57 PM
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Kickstand switch, if you're experiencing sudden cutoffs of the engine.

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post #6 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 08:32 PM
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First thing is stop using the run/start to run switch, they are not built to be used everyday, use your key for that.

The 2 most likely causes are the clutch switch and you bypassed that, good work, next is the start button but that will not cause the bike to stall.

The run/start switch will cause the bike to stall but it will also stop the fuel pump priming so unless you move or bump the switch after the bike has started it is looking less likely but don't discount it.

What do you see on your dash cluster before and after hitting the go button ?

Check the battery has a good solid clean earth at the motor and all other connectors are clean and tight, you will find the placements on the forum.

And if you have done any work on the bike since purchase go back over everything you have touched to ensure all plugs were installed correctly, if you have moved your handlebars at all have a good look at the wires.

It sounds to me like you need to did deeper into the start button.


Your solenoid has 2 big bolts protruding, if you bridge them the bike should start, that will test the starter and to some degree the earth but it will bypass all other switches so there is not a lot to be gained from that test but give it a try anyway.
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Last edited by Rolex; 04-30-2019 at 08:35 PM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 10:15 PM
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Would be a "CHEC" displayed were it the side stand safety switch, I agree 100% with everything Rolex mentioned.

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post #8 of 10 Old 05-01-2019, 04:12 AM
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The run/start (emergency cutout switch) with also throw up a "CHEC" (displayed in place of the time), if activated. Have you confirmed that the connectors above the radiator, are not arced / burnt?
If you don't have a wiring diagram, have a look at post #38 in post https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-d...e-blowing.html. While not for the L1 model, it will be very close to your model and will be of help if nothing else is available.
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-01-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
First thing is stop using the run/start to run switch, they are not built to be used everyday, use your key for that.

The 2 most likely causes are the clutch switch and you bypassed that, good work, next is the start button but that will not cause the bike to stall.

The run/start switch will cause the bike to stall but it will also stop the fuel pump priming so unless you move or bump the switch after the bike has started it is looking less likely but don't discount it.

What do you see on your dash cluster before and after hitting the go button ?

Check the battery has a good solid clean earth at the motor and all other connectors are clean and tight, you will find the placements on the forum.

And if you have done any work on the bike since purchase go back over everything you have touched to ensure all plugs were installed correctly, if you have moved your handlebars at all have a good look at the wires.

It sounds to me like you need to did deeper into the start button.


Your solenoid has 2 big bolts protruding, if you bridge them the bike should start, that will test the starter and to some degree the earth but it will bypass all other switches so there is not a lot to be gained from that test but give it a try anyway.
Thank you to everyone for the help thus far. I was able to spend a few minutes troubleshooting again last night, and I am beginning to suspect that the problem is my starter relay.

1) The bike is pretty close to stock. I've not changed anything with the engine or handlebars. My meager modifications are: seat, windshield, crash bars, skid plate, and a gear indicator.
2) I do not have "CHEC" displayed, so I don't think I have a problem with the kickstand safety switch. Also, I'm in neutral, so the engine should still start even if the kickstand switch went bad.
3) The fuel pump primes every time I move the kill switch to RUN, so I'm pretty confident that isn't the problem.
4) I did bypass the clutch safety switch with no results. That rules that problem out.
5) I disassembled the start button, cleaned, and tested by shorting the start contacts with a screwdriver. No change- the starter still isn't doing anything.
6) The battery is good. So are the connections. Nothing is loose there and my battery tests out fine.

The only thing I haven't done is jump the leads on the relay to check the starter. But I think I've narrowed it down to the only two components it could be, no? And with only 10,000 miles, I'm honestly surprised that either the starter or the relay could have failed.

I did read something about a tip-over sensor. Any chance that could cause these problems and NOT give me an indication on the dash?

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post #10 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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So for anyone who has this problem in the future... I don't know what was wrong with it. I never figured it out. My bike fixed itself.

I checked every switch and safety switch. I installed a new starter relay, new battery, I even considered voodoo. Nothing worked.

I took a day off of work a few weeks ago and took off every body panel looking for a chaffed wire or something mice could have gotten into and found nothing. While I had all the fairings off, I tried starting it and it worked.

Since then, I've put right at 1,000 miles on it and probably started it 30 times or more without a single problem. I don't know if it heard me thinking about setting it on fire or if the evil spirits moved into something else (like my lawn mower that burns more oil than gas...) but it's working. I hate when a problem "fixes" itself because it's likely to happen again and I don't know the cause, but hey- I'm riding again.

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