First thing is stop using the run/start to run switch, they are not built to be used everyday, use your key for that.
The 2 most likely causes are the clutch switch and you bypassed that, good work, next is the start button but that will not cause the bike to stall.
The run/start switch will cause the bike to stall but it will also stop the fuel pump priming so unless you move or bump the switch after the bike has started it is looking less likely but don't discount it.
What do you see on your dash cluster before and after hitting the go button ?
Check the battery has a good solid clean earth at the motor and all other connectors are clean and tight, you will find the placements on the forum.
And if you have done any work on the bike since purchase go back over everything you have touched to ensure all plugs were installed correctly, if you have moved your handlebars at all have a good look at the wires.
It sounds to me like you need to did deeper into the start button.
Your solenoid has 2 big bolts protruding, if you bridge them the bike should start, that will test the starter and to some degree the earth but it will bypass all other switches so there is not a lot to be gained from that test but give it a try anyway.
Thank you to everyone for the help thus far. I was able to spend a few minutes troubleshooting again last night, and I am beginning to suspect that the problem is my starter relay.
1) The bike is pretty close to stock. I've not changed anything with the engine or handlebars. My meager modifications are: seat, windshield, crash bars, skid plate, and a gear indicator.
2) I do not have "CHEC" displayed, so I don't think I have a problem with the kickstand safety switch. Also, I'm in neutral, so the engine should still start even if the kickstand switch went bad.
3) The fuel pump primes every time I move the kill switch to RUN, so I'm pretty confident that isn't the problem.
4) I did bypass the clutch safety switch with no results. That rules that problem out.
5) I disassembled the start button, cleaned, and tested by shorting the start contacts with a screwdriver. No change- the starter still isn't doing anything.
6) The battery is good. So are the connections. Nothing is loose there and my battery tests out fine.
The only thing I haven't done is jump the leads on the relay to check the starter. But I think I've narrowed it down to the only two components it could be, no? And with only 10,000 miles, I'm honestly surprised that either the starter or the relay could have failed.
I did read something about a tip-over sensor. Any chance that could cause these problems and NOT give me an indication on the dash?