POR15 - Fuel Tank Rust Repair Kit - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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POR15 - Fuel Tank Rust Repair Kit

Back in the beginning of 2011, during a ride my bike started jerking and sputtering above 4500rpm.

Turned out that my high pressure filter was clogged.:|
I did the fuel flow check, connected a plastic hose from the fuel pump outlet, and put it in a measuring cup.

You need to do 3 full on-off contact cycles, and see how much gas you get in the measuring cup. With a fuel pump in good condition you should get 3-3.5dcl of fuel out. I barely got 1dcl.:| Removed the tank, and the fuel pump and saw that my tank was rusty inside.

I did the external filter bypass, and tried to get rid of the rust by electrolysis. It took a while, cleaned it up pretty good, but I knew it was not a permanent fix, because I didn't protect the inside with anything.

I searched the web, and found a few products that for sealing the tank. I got the best information from ADVRider forum, and after a few inquiries I got a friend to buy and bring me a POR15 Repair Kit from Germany. I live in Croatia, and could have ordered it myself, but the shipping cost was way to much.


The kit is for tanks up to 10l, 20l, and 40l. There is also a kit for car tanks up to 96l.

I bought the 40l kit, because I wasn't sure it would be enough for my 22l tank, but the 20l kit is more than enough.

Note:
Since 2011 the box and containers inside have changed.

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post #2 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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It's a 3 step process:

1.
Cleaning out the tank from gasoline residues, and rust to a certain extent with Marine Clean.

2.
Preping the tank with Metal Ready

3.
Applying U.S Standard Fuel Tank Sealer

You also get a sponge brush for touching up, and a piece of cloth in case there are pinholes that need to be patched up.

The instructions that come in the box are quite good, and can also be found online.

Note:
For the whole process from start to finish I needed about 6 hours!



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post #3 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Into a empty tank you pour in Marine Clean and warm (not hot!) water in a 1:1 ratio.
Marine Clean is a alkaline solution.
Close up the openings on the tank and start mixing and shaking.
It's gonna foam up very quickly inside, and I must admit it was quite tiring shaking the tank for 20 or so minutes.
After that pour the liquid out and rinse the tank with tap water.

The tank didn't look any better after this first step and I was a bit worried.


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post #4 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Then you pour in Metal Ready. The tank doesn't have to be completely dry before this.
Metal Ready is a phosphate acid, blue colored liquid.
When poured in the tank has to be rotated every once in while, so it covers every part ,and between changing positions slightly splashed around.
It shouldn't be left inside the tank longer then 2 hours.

This looked much better.

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post #5 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Then pour the liquid out and thoroughly rinse the inside with warm water.

Before doing the last step (US Standard Fuel Tank Sealer) the tank has to be COMPLETELY dry inside.
The sealer interacts with water and in that case starts curing to fast.
I used a hair dryer to dry it up. Did it for about an hour and a half (probably overkill) and the tank was getting so hot that I turned off the heater on the hair dryer every now and then.



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post #6 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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I then covered up the visible part of the tank with masking tape and duct tape (ran out of masking tape) because if the sealer is not cleaned of pretty soon you can't remove it later.

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post #7 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Now comes the last and most important step - the Sealer.

Luckily I asked on ADVRider forum about first hand experiences using this kit.
One of the members said that a 30l tank can be sealed with the 20l kit sealer, and that was good information, because I had the 40l kit, so I poured in only half the amount of sealer I had (about 250ml)

The tin must not be shaken!
It has to be stired until it's a uniform color.
In the begining it doesn't seem that such a small amount can cover the whole inside, but it's really thin and runny and has excellent coverage.

As soon as you pour it in you have to start turning the tank all around so it covers every part inside.
The tricky part was around the filler opening because I had a cork cap on it, but the biggest problem was getting the excess sealer out.
The opening for the fuel pump is not at the lowest point of the tank, so I had a small pool of sealer at the bottom.
This is were a small syringe and a piece of plastic tube come in handy.
I syphoned the excess out. It came out to about 150ml!

After it's done the tank has to dry for at least 96 hours before pouring gas back in.


Picture of the sealer still running down

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post #8 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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After 2 days

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post #9 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures from 01.August.2013

The only place the sealer didn't cover well was at the gas cap, but that was my mistake because I didn't remove the cork cap when I used Metal Ready


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post #10 of 23 Old 03-24-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures from 21.April 2015

There is some fuel inside the tank, that's why it yellowish

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