Front Axle Ground in slide - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 10:29 AM
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Those parts aren't cheap! 2014 1000 I assume.

#5 54711-31J00 AXLE, FRONT $95.12 $76.10

#13 54712-47H00 NUT, FRONT AXLE $30.62 $24.50

I'd probably use a angle grinder to smooth out the threads and try and remove the nut. Fleabay may have used parts too.

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post #12 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 01:23 PM
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Good to hear you weren't badly injured.

probably won't be able to use them until the nut is removed...

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post #13 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 03:11 PM
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If you grind/file off the mushroomed edge then loosen the nut and with a little oil work it back and forth as you remove it the nut might clean up the threads enough to where you can reuse it.

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post #14 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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New axle and nut are on the "when I am ordering other stuff" list and will get replaced eventually. I'm not super concerned with looks at the moment and just got a new set of tires, so it'll be awhile till it needs to come off.

Forks seem true from a ride this morning. Something happened to the handlebars on the skid side but can't tell for sure what it is yet, but I can feel a difference. I think both bars shifted up a bit, so I shifted it a bit back and I'll see if they feel uneven and will measure. I can tell something happened since the mirror on the skid side touches the windshield when it doesn't on the other. But that could be due to the mirror stalk bending too since it got whacked around a bit. Hard to tell so I'll keep trying different stuff over the next week or so and if I can't figure it out I might bring it into a shop and have them take a look.

Thanks for everyone's input!
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post #15 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 06:16 PM
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+1 on STCorndog's post. I'd get it rolling down a flat side street (no traffic, few parked cars) and lighten my grip on the handlebars. Hold the throttle w/ a very light touch or use a clamp style 'cruise control' to hold it open. If the bike has a tendency to pull to one side, something up front is tweaked. This will also tell you if the handlebars are both pointing straight as in STC's post. Repeat with the bike in neutral. I'd then reverse my direction on the street and try both in and out of gear trials again to negate any influence from the road (hopefully there is no camber).

Make sure there are no kids or pets running around before you try this. I'm not advocating a 'no hands' try, just a very light touch on the bars.

If no pull, you are good to go. I too would change the axle and nut. If your present axle was peened over, you might have a lot of filing ahead of you to remove the nut. In that case, I'd use a right angle grinder to clean up the end down to good threads.
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post #16 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 06:27 PM Sponsor
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None of us can tell as good as you can, but it looks like there may be undamaged threads on the outside of that nut which is the criteria for bolt penetration through a nut to begin with.

If you have a center stand put the bike on it and try to rock the front wheel left to right top and bottom. Any play indicates bad bearings.
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-11-2019, 11:37 PM
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From what I can see from your photo there does seem enough good thread left on the outside of the nut to allow the axle to be reused. Sure, the easiest cure is to replace both but if cash is a consideration taking a bit of time to clean the threads up, and removing the nut with a little care will see the axle just as strong and reliable as a new one. My only concern with not doing it straight away is if you did, for some reason, need to remove the wheel while on a trip.

It should be very obvious when riding a straight road if the forks were bent at all.
From the description in your second post I'd guess that the slide tweaked the handlebar that went down and bent it upwards slightly - which I am sure is the side where your mirror now hits the faring blade. The only cure for that is to replace the handlebars.
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post #18 of 26 Old 01-12-2019, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post
There may be some distortion of the front fork, hopefully they are not bent, I think not likely that they are. So I would follow the procedure for re-installing the front wheel. Can't remember in detail but it's like loosening the pinch bolts and the axle nut, suppressing the front suspension several times so all can settle in it's natural location, then re-tightening everything to spec. If you have the maintenance manual, check for the correct procedure.
FYI, Front Fork Alignment.

I'd buy a new axle and nut and have it "at the ready" the next time that front wheel has to come off. If the handlebars are bent you will probably have to replace those before doing the alignment procedure but the axle and forks are probably fine as-is but removal and reinstall of the axle is a 50/50 proposition with the damaged threads.

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post #19 of 26 Old 01-12-2019, 12:17 AM
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Those prices are ridiculous!! I agree with DT that its worth a repair attempt. I bet if you get it off and chase the threads, it'll be just fine. The die for those threads will be expensive too though lol. You may be able to find a machine shop to clean it up for you for cheap, especially if you get it off the bike yourself first.

I can't imagine sliding would do any damage to the rest of the axle or the bearings.

Where are you located?
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post #20 of 26 Old 01-12-2019, 12:25 AM
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If he can file the galled part down a bit, he may be able to chase the threads just by carefully backing the nut off and using it like a die. No special tools required. I'd try that first if I didn't have the proper size die. It will be really obvious if it is not going to work and then onto plan B.
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