Connector Short/Corrosion - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
Maintenance, Tech and Products. Maintenance questions, how to threads and product information/reviews.

 3Likes
  • 1 Post By MAZ4ME
  • 2 Post By Big B
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 28
Connector Short/Corrosion

Hoping to get some advice regarding an electrical fault I had this morning. Riding to work the gauge cluster started behaving oddly. Lights coming on and off, gauges reseting. The engine continued to operate as expected with no interruption.

Eventually the odd behavior stopped and things returned to normal, except the speedometer was not responsive. The trip meter is also not recording distance. On startup the speedometer needle still briefly pings to the max value as expected, and all lights on the gauge work as expected, just no speed.

Looking at the main connector on the left side of the fairing, there appears to be a short. This is a 2004 DL-650. It's been with me for ~70k miles now. This is the first real fault I've ever had with the bike and it still runs beautifully - pretty amazing engineering.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20181206_074842.jpg (296.5 KB, 8 views)

Last edited by Born to Run; 12-06-2018 at 11:11 AM.
Born to Run is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 11:12 AM
Stromthusiast!
Super Trooper!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Pasadna area
Posts: 13,986
Maybe not a short but a loose connection. We used to get that at work. Those individual pins could be pushed out of the connector and replaced.
The loose connection make for a resistive connection and it heats up and cooks.
notacop is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 12:17 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 1,675
BTR, that discoloration on the connector block is caused by heat.
With a small pin tool like a micro-screwdriver or tool set designed for pin removal, you can remove the terminal by lifting the lock portion of the termial through the small slot above the terminal and pulling the wire out from the back of the terminal block. You can clean the and tighten the terminal and return it to the block if the plastic isnt melted. You can clean it with Battery Spray Terminal Cleaner, then with water, CRC (or equivalent) Electramotive Cleaner, or DeOxit Cleaner and Preservative. Clean the male terminal in the mating block as well.

IF you can't remove the terminal due to heat damage, and you have access to both connectors, merely cut off both wires at the terminal blocks, strip 1/2" from both, and use insulated solderless crimp connectors, 1 male, 1 female, and an inexpensive crimping tool to attatch them, connect the 2 wires and DONE. You'll want the terminals that are fully plastic-enclosed. They'll be connected on the outside of the terminal blocks from which you cut the wires, and are in effect wiring around the connectors. Tape-wrap this lone wire to the harness and youre finished.
Big B likes this.

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 12-06-2018 at 12:39 PM.
MAZ4ME is offline  
 
post #4 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 12:33 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Puget Sound, and Allegheny County (PA)
Posts: 788
Garage
Post Yet another panel ground connection failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Born to Run View Post
Hoping to get some advice regarding an electrical fault I had this morning. Riding to work the gauge cluster started behaving oddly. Lights coming on and off, gauges reseting. The engine continued to operate as expected with no interruption.
Eventually the odd behavior stopped and things returned to normal, except the speedometer was not responsive. The trip meter is also not recording distance. On startup the speedometer needle still briefly pings to the max value as expected, and all lights on the gauge work as expected, just no speed.
Looking at the main connector on the left side of the fairing, there appears to be a short. This is a 2004 DL-650. It's been with me for ~70k miles now. This is the first real fault I've ever had with the bike and it still runs beautifully - pretty amazing engineering.
As notacop said, it's an overly "loose" connection. Tin plated connections, as found in that and other cheap connectors, need to have significant pressure between contacting surfaces to impede growth of tin oxide into the space that one would like to remain conductive. That connector might have enough pressure, but between temperature cycling and that particular pin pair carrying a lot of current, there is regular movement between the mating surfaces, allowing gradual growth of the oxide inward into that contacting area. As that happens, the resistance goes up, hence the temperature excursions increase, promoting even faster oxide growth until there is so much contact resistance that the pins get hot enough to char the housing, (as you can see.)


A good way to preclude or at least forestall this process is to get new pins to replace the now-damaged ones, (one in each half of the mated connector pair), then apply a small amount of DeoxIT or Stabilant where it can wick into that contacting area. These substances greatly slow that oxide growth. (The DeoxIT manufacturer much overstates the virtues of their product, with claims far beyond reality, but it does perform the oxygen blocking function. They are selling into the audiophile market where snake-oil-style marketing is the norm.)

I would be tempted, when repairing this failure, to put another pair of pins into one of the unused positions in the housings, then parallel the wire going though the fixed connection with another going through the newly added pin pair. One contributor to this failure is that Suzuki is asking that connection to pass more current than it can reliably handle in the long term. By paralleling connections, you will halve the current in each pin pair and reduce heating (in each pair) by a factor of 4. We see that failure often enough in this forum that I would be willing to bet that the current rating is being exceeded, even though I have not looked up the connector specification or measured what current passes in that position.
Trepidator is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 12:33 PM
Super Moderator
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central OHIO "Go Buckeyes"
Posts: 16,716
Garage
Perform the repair that MAZ4ME and Trepidator mentioned, and then install some headlight relays from EasternBeaver for example.
Rolex and Hatchi like this.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

2015 DL650 XT "Hector"

1997 Honda Valkyrie 1500 custom “Dolores”




Big B is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 12:36 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 1,675
One item i forgot to mention...
Pack both sides of the connector with silicone dielectric grease, available from any auto parts store in tube form.
This was one of the steps to be done during Mazda recalls where corrosion/loose terminals was an issue.
MAZ4ME is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 12-09-2018, 06:57 PM
Stromthusiast!
Super Trooper!
 
Rolex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Sydney's East
Posts: 3,036
I'm with Big B install headlight relays to take the load off the connector.

If you search this site that problem has shown up many hundreds of times, many bypass the connector but relays are the ultimate solution.

Some of the 19 rides in my shed
2014 V2, Snoopy
2009 Wee, Pumbaa the pig
WR450F, The Blue Postie Bike
YZ250N smoker with rego, Stinky.
Yamaha MT09 (FZ09), The Scud missile.
Club Lead not Club Med.
He with the most toys wins.
Out of my depth in a puddle.
Live life on the edge you will see more that way.
Ridding a motorcycle keeps things in balance.
At the end of each trail and at the end of each day history is made.
Rolex is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 12-09-2018, 07:28 PM
Stromthusiast!
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Puget Sound, and Allegheny County (PA)
Posts: 788
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
I'm with Big B install headlight relays to take the load off the connector.

If you search this site that problem has shown up many hundreds of times, many bypass the connector but relays are the ultimate solution.
I contend that replacing the incandescent headlight bulbs with LED "bulb" modules is just as effective with respect to getting current reduced sufficiently in that connector to avoid that runaway contact resistance failure. And, similarly to a headlight relay, the reduced current is much easier on the starter switch.
Trepidator is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
electrical , maintenance , speedometer

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome