2004 V-Strom 650 Loses Electric Power - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-30-2018, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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2004 V-Strom 650 Loses Electric Power

So, I have an electrical issue that is proving to be a huge pain to track down.

When I was out riding today, the gauges would shut off and restart (with the full needle sweep) every time the bike hit a bump in the road (roughly every hundred yards). The engine still ran fine.

When I got home, I pulled out the battery and measured it at 12.8 volts. I don't have a method of load testing the battery, so I put it on a charger, which ran for less than 15 minutes before identifying the battery as being full.

So, I put the battery back in the bike, put the key back in the ignition (and saw the gauge startup sweep) and hit the starter, but the gauges just died (no reset sweep) without even hearing a click from the starter relay.

I pulled off the left side fairing to take a look at the wiring connector there, but it looked fine. After turning the ignition on and off a few times, I got power back to the instruments. I tried jiggling every wire I could in order to see if I could get the power to die, but nothing had any effect.

Then I flipped on the left turn signal, and the power died. After about 10 seconds, the power came back. This time, I could use both turn signals just fine with no effect on the electric power. So, I hit the starter, and the electric power died. I couldn't get the power to come back on, so I stopped testing there for the night.

The bike has previously been fine save for one minor issue. Occasionally the starter switch doesn't close the circuit when a normal amount of force is applied, so I have to really jam it down to get the bike to start.

I thought about buying a new battery, but a bad battery wouldn't explain why the gauges would die and restart every time the bike hit a bump in the road.

Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
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post #2 of 19 Old 09-30-2018, 02:25 AM
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Suggestion #1 - the side stand cutout switch.
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post #3 of 19 Old 09-30-2018, 05:47 AM
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UncleHayai, do you have a wiring diagram for your bike? How sure are you that the big connector is making contact on all the pins? A multimeter is needed to test for connectivity.
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-30-2018, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
Suggestion #1 - the side stand cutout switch.
I'll take a look at the switch tomorrow, but it seems like the switch would be causing the reverse of my problem (i.e. killing the engine while the electrical power stays on, not vice versa).

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Originally Posted by Gert View Post
UncleHayai, do you have a wiring diagram for your bike? How sure are you that the big connector is making contact on all the pins? A multimeter is needed to test for connectivity.
There wasn't any evidence of corrosion or water entry into or around the connector. I was also unable to cause the electrical power failure by manipulating the connector. I'm not ruling it out as a possibility, but I haven't seen anything that points to the connector being the failure point.
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-30-2018, 07:58 AM
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Have you tried pulling, pushing and jiggling all the wires in the area of the handle bars?I say that because you mention left turn & starter buttons causing a loss of electrical power.Intermittent electrical problems can be frustrating to locate.Cheers Doug
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post #6 of 19 Old 10-01-2018, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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I spent the afternoon today tearing the bike apart to check on the electrical system. All the fuses were continuous, all relays were working as expected, the wiring harness showed no visible damage, no connectors showed signs of overheating or corrosion, the insides of the handlebar switch clusters had no corrosion or shorting, and the side stand switch was working properly.

So, throwing my hands up in the air in frustration, I put the bike back together for the night. When I finished and put the key in, normal electrical power came on and the bike fired right up. So, I did an electrical function check and went for a test ride up the nearest hill and back. It went fine, so I turned the bike off and did another function check and test ride, which again went normally.

So, not a very satisfying conclusion in terms of diagnosing the problem, but at least I have a working bike again (for now!).
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-01-2018, 03:06 AM
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Congrats. You obviously found or wiggled the problem without realising. Let's hope its fixed for good but if it does happen again I suggest that you have the key on while going through the switches and wiring.

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post #8 of 19 Old 10-01-2018, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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... if it does happen again I suggest that you have the key on while going through the switches and wiring.
I probably will do that. I had the battery disconnected when I worked on the bike this time since I was worried about the amount of current that a short could be arcing/flowing if I reactivated it with my hands.
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-01-2018, 12:29 PM
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I'll take a look at the switch tomorrow....
You may want to consult https://blacklabadventures.com/2012/...h-maintenance/
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-01-2018, 01:18 PM
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Good idea on the black labs switch repair. Ive read on this forun that opens have occured commonly on the connectors above the radiator and the wire bundle under the tank to the left of the radiator reservoir. A loose or corroded ground wire on the engine can also cause odd things to occur.

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