Rear brake's inside pad dragging, rotor HOT after 0.5 miles. - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Question Rear brake's inside pad dragging, rotor HOT after 0.5 miles.

I recently got a 2008 vstrom 650 with ~57k miles.

About 1500 miles ago, the PO had a chain put on, the dealer forgot the right wheel spacer, resulting in the inside pad not being worn at all, and the outside pad being completely worn as well as the rotor being ground up a bit (below the area the pads grip).

I just got a spacer in, mounted it, and noticed that the rear wheel is very difficult to roll by hand. It's tough rolling the bike in the garage in neutral. I went for a ride around the block and the rear rotor was HOT.

The issue is that the almost unworn inside pad is putting a lot of pressure on the rotor, while the outside pad is fine.

Since the inside pad doesn't have a piston, I'm not sure what to do other than take some sand paper to it and break out the elbow grease.

Any ideas before I go that route?

The chain slack adjusters are both at the same notches.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 01:27 AM
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I am assuming that after fitting the CORRECT missing spacer that you replaced both brake pads. In that case the caliper is either not assembled correctly, not working correctly, or the wheel is not assembled correctly.

Remove the caliper and check that all the parts are there and that the pins are in good condition.



Otherwise, you will need to remove the wheel and check that all of the bits are there, and that the spacers are the right way around.



The bike should have been very obviously faulty with a spacer missing. Did the PO fit the wheel himself?
p.s. Don't forget to check that spacer #8 is there, and the correct way around.
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Last edited by Brockie; 08-25-2018 at 01:32 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 01:49 AM
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There's another thing can go wrong back there, well several .

Make sure the piston is clean, that may mean lifting the caliper and pumping the brakes - being careful not to push it all the way out. I usually scrub it with methylated spirits and a toothbrush and polish with a synthetic kitchen scourer if that's needed to get crud off the surface. Point being that if the piston has been hanging out it may have tar or grit on it and not be retracting. Or there may be grit between the piston and caliper. A small screwdriver run around - being careful not to dig into the seal will get rid of grit. Alas, the stuff they use for road repairs here is just the right size to do that.

Next, at the back of the caliper where the back of the brake pads lock in there's supposed to be a stainless steel insert (14). Make sure that's in there and correctly located and that the brake pads are sitting in it properly when you lower the caliper back down. That being missing or out of position causes all sorts of grief. Also give the pin 7 a polish and a THIN coat of copper grease.

Finally, check the fluid level in the rear brake reservoir, make sure it's not full because if it is it'll activate the rear brake for you. That's easy to do if you top it up with well worn pads.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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The piston isn't engaged. I pushed it back so there is a mm or two gap between the right pad and the rotor. It is the left pad (the one without a piston) that is rubbing.

The piston action cannot be contributing as I've removed that as a variable by leaving a gap between the piston side pad and the rotor.

The only parts missing are Fig 68 parts 16,17,18, but I don't foresee that as an issue.
Spacer 8 is there, and I presume it is the correct way around (it fit snuggly), but the diagram does not show which way the sloped side faces.
Fig. 66 part 14 is there and the pads are on it correctly.

The apparent issues is that the caliper body cannot move far enough to the left

I did order the right spacer (ordered by part number) and am 99% sure I assembled everything correctly.

The PO did not put the wheel on himself, a shop did it, and it ran fine when I test rode it, other than a very weak rear brake, which I attributed to the fluid needing to be bled.

Thanks for the suggestions guys!
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

I went for a handful of rides around the neighborhood, stopping to let the rotor cool in between. It's now at a point where the wheel doesn't spin completely freely, but is much easier to spin. It's about what I've come to expect as normal from other bikes I've had.

So in the end all I had to do was wear away enough of the pad material :/

Side question, how problematic is it that I'm missing Fig. 68 parts 16,17,18 (pad insulators and retainers)?
The pads sit in the caliper snugly, and I can't see how they'd fall out or otherwise become problematic.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 04:49 AM
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The pad insulators aren't a real issue. I lost mine years ago. The rear brake works a bit better with them but it's not a killing problem. Next time you buy rear pads see if you can buy some with a backing plate, some come with their own - backing plate + insulator is better but the plate helps on it's own.

O.K. next trick, the caliper is supposed to slide side to side on those two bolts and the pin. The front one in particular is a bastard for getting water in it. So pull that, clean it, and coat it with either a THIN coat of copper grease or if you have some silicone grease. The silicone grease is better because it's more or less safe if it gets on the brake pads, just heats up and eventually turns to powder but a thin coat of copper grease is safish. It may just be the front bolt or both that's causing problems, if you pull the pads out you should be able to push the caliper side to side without problems.

That's possibly the reason the caliper didn't self center, a rim of rust on one or both those bolts.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 07:39 AM
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Both L and R spacers have a flange on one side, the flange goes out not in. Make double sure the caliper slot in in the bracket 'grove'(part 14) or you can damage it in a threshold braking situation. The tab in the grove keeps the caliper from rotating when braking.....important.


I have never had a new pad drag like you are experiencing...I still think something is wrong

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post #8 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 10:45 AM
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Just asking...
But the axle s Is the rear wheel perfectly centered in the swingarm?pacers shown in the parts diagram are different part numbers and are named L and R. is it possible to swap them side to side?
Stranger things have happened...
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 03:54 PM
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Disassemble the rear brake, clean and grease the slider pins. You may need to take some scrubber pads and in some cases I've chucked the pin in a drill and used some very fine sandpaper to clean the heavy stuff off of the pins and polish them up a bit more.

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post #10 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 05:03 PM
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I'm going with the wrong spacer or it's backwards.

2014 650 Strom
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