¯04 rear brake issue - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-15-2018, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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‘04 rear brake issue

Went to change the rear brake pads on my V1k. Something that is supposed to be simple but the repair gods didn’t have it in my fortune for such. That silly post cap on the rear brake pin is frozen on (what a stupid idea anyway). Heat, lube, impact, repeat= nothing but four letter words. Now I think I’m down to drilling and extracting (hopefully). Or worst case threading again. My question pertains to if there is any space to work with before hitting the pin and is that cap a solid plug or hollow? Left it soaking in PB Blaster and will look to fight another day. Guess worst case is a new caliper if really mess things up, but man I would rather spend money on something else for goodness sake.
Thanks in advance for the help!
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-16-2018, 03:31 PM
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Be patient with it. Let it soak.

I use a little handheld impact driver you smack with a hammer. Very useful tool.

I also apply a little never seize when re-installing.

There's not much to the plug. There's a hex head on the pin behind it. I don't think I'd want to drill it out but, even if you wreck it, it is not the end of the world. You'll just have to use silicone or something to fill the hole later and keep the crud away from the pin.
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-16-2018, 07:54 PM
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As stated, let it soak a bit if you have the time. I'd get a good pilot hole established in the center with an automatic punch and a small drill bit, then use a left-handed drill bit. I bet it would spin right out.

There's a little bit of space, so as long as you're reasonably quick on the trigger, you shouldn't mangle the hex in the pin.

I agree this is a design doomed to fail... I've been lucky so far, but some have been a real pain. I always reinstall with plenty of anti-seize.

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post #4 of 6 Old 04-17-2018, 12:12 AM
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Here’s a link to a previous thread about this problem. Three is a stainless replacement plug available for those who really, really don’t want to have this problem again. The information about where to get the stainless replacement is in one of the posts in the link below.

https://www.stromtrooper.com/maintena...lug-stuck.html

PB Blaster has a good reputation for freeing rusted-on fasteners. I have personal experience using a product called Kroil and highly recommend it. I purchased the product online but others have reported that they have been able to purchase it locally.

As others have suggested, let the rust “dissolver” work for a day or two. A second application has done the trick before for me. If the rusted plug needs a little more persuasion try a hand held impact tool that you strike with a hammer. I got mine at Sears for $10 seven or eight years ago.

Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-18-2018, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Was down to drill and extract. Broke the first extractor.....was drilling around to et the second extractor space to go and the cap screw popped free. Guess the vibration from drilling made it give up. Ordered a few replacement boots and new cap. Guarantee anti-seize will be on the rebuild! Thanks for all the input!
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-19-2018, 11:28 AM
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Interesting seeing this thread right after I had my brake pads changed at the mechanic. They told me the rear brake pin (or one of the bolts I'm not sure) was "over torqued" and they had to drill it out, they also found metal shavings inside the caliper. It's weird because my wee is only 2 yrs old and this was the first time the caliper came off the bike. When I rode home from the shop the rear brake was really spongy so I tried bleeding front/back.

At any rate, now the rear brake pads are rubbing on the rotor . I've never messed with the brakes prior to this week, but I'm about to take the rear brake apart and see if anything looks abnormal. Any advice would be appreciated, but if I can't fix it I'm heading back to the shop, they already told me they'd double check it free of charge.
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