Electrical Problem - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 03-09-2018, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical Problem

We pride ourselves on top maintenance of our fleet of '08 DL650's non-ABS, but even then stuff happens.

On our last tour, one of our bikes acted up for a guest. He reported "power cuts off between idle and 5000rpm." He is a master mechanic at Delta who maintains his Versys 1000, so I paid attention. I got on the bike and tried to replicate the problem. I thrashed it for a mile + and nothing. But just when I turned around it started cutting out, but not like fuel starvation, but electrical. Then it got bad and I didn't think I'd make it back but did. Even at speed it'd just shut off. I'd hit the starter, it may come back on, then a few seconds later just stop. I did make it back and we swapped bikes off the trailer (we always trailer a spare bike or two.

He has once complained about it didn't have much power, but I figured that was in comparison to his liter Versys.

Yesterday my tech and I got into the bike. I wanted to check the fuel filter so we drained the tank. Here is what the fuel looked like:



How is that for nasty fuel? That's not emulsified water in there because it never separates. I have no idea...
Here is fuel from another bike refuelled from the exact same gas pumps, at the same time:



Quite a difference, right?

Thinking bad fuel was the culprit, we cleaned the tank, buttoned it up, put in some fresh fuel and took it for a spin. Still cut out. Drat!

So we stripped the tupperware off to examine the wiring. Here is what we found in the main harness:



Burned out solder joint on a large gauge wire that takes some current. I suspect that may be the culprit. Just a few weeks ago we made sure the connector was bathed in dielectric grease. Tomorrow we put in a new pin and hope the problem is solved.

But here is where it gets weird. I get out my shop manual wiring diagram to look where this brown wire goes...and it is not on the plug on the diagram. In fact, the diagram has 14 wires in that plug, but MY bikes have 16 wires. I have a larger brown wire (as in the pic) and a blue wire that are not in the diagram.

However, my diagram does have a brown wire to the ignition switch. While I do not know for sure, I do suspect the burned brown solder joint in the main plug is the problem.

Without a wiring diagram that matches my bikes, I'm kinda shooting in the dark here.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram with 16 wires to the main plug, and not 14? What does this brown wire go to? The blue?

The plug is a 16 pin, with 9 on one row and 6 on the other. The wires on my plug are as follows:
9-row: bl/b - BR - y/b - Y - r/w - B/W - pink/w - lt. green - Br/b
6-row: bl - o/g - b/g - b/bl - o/r - y/g

Any help on what the Brown and Blue wires go to would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 07:06 AM
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Not sure if the attached is of any help to you or if it is against the forum rules, but as it may be of aid to you. Good luck in finding your fault. Please report back on your findings. If the attachment does not go through, PM your email and I'll try via email.

Last edited by Gert; 03-10-2018 at 07:12 AM. Reason: pdf attachment maybe too big and not go through
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post #3 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 08:46 AM
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Scooter, Ive seen that very condition in many Mazdas Ive dealt with through the years. Infact, there is a recall in effect for some models. The issue is the ignition switch internal contacts. They corrode, wear out, develop high resistance, overheat, transfer that heat to the female terminal in the harness plug, and that's what you have.
The repair is replace the ignition switch, and with terminal release tools, remove the burnt terminal from the plug--if you can. Cut the terminal off the wire and replace it with a new terminal available from many Japanese automobile service and part departments. If the plug plastic is burnt/melted to the point where it isnt usable, then you will have to locate a used harness and and swap plugs using the terminal release tool, or replace the harness complete with new.
I used to keep old harnesses just for those instances where I needed a terminal block.
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post #4 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
Scooter, Ive seen that very condition in many Mazdas Ive dealt with through the years. Infact, there is a recall in effect for some models. The issue is the ignition switch internal contacts. They corrode, wear out, develop high resistance, overheat, transfer that heat to the female terminal in the harness plug, and that's what you have.
The repair is replace the ignition switch, and with terminal release tools, remove the burnt terminal from the plug--if you can. Cut the terminal off the wire and replace it with a new terminal available from many Japanese automobile service and part departments. If the plug plastic is burnt/melted to the point where it isnt usable, then you will have to locate a used harness and and swap plugs using the terminal release tool, or replace the harness complete with new.
I used to keep old harnesses just for those instances where I needed a terminal block.
Thanks, I'll check it out. My wiring diagram does not have the brown wire routed through the main harness.

I've replaced terminal pins before, no problem there. But you say the switch needs to be replaced too? I assume you mean the keyed ignition switch, not the ignition cut-off on the right handlebar.
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post #5 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gert View Post
Not sure if the attached is of any help to you or if it is against the forum rules, but as it may be of aid to you. Good luck in finding your fault. Please report back on your findings. If the attachment does not go through, PM your email and I'll try via email.
Gert, sent it to rcooper (at) motocaribe (dot) com.

Thanks!
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post #6 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 09:45 AM
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Scooter, in all the cases Ive dealt with, the ignition switch was the root cause of the burnt terminal. In Mazdas, the electrical portion at the bottom of the lock cylinder was a replaceable item. Looking at a microfiche for the '08 DL650, it appears that is not the case for the DL650.
A high current draw would take out a fuse or fusable link. But an overheated terminal would show the damage that you have.
In a corrosive environment it's possible that terminal loosened on its mating terminal, developed high resistance and overheated, but that heat could transfer back into the ignition switch with the same result.
Ive seen automotive blower switches fail in the exact same manner.
You can measure the resistance between the voltage supply terminal to the ignition switch and that burnt switch terminal to be sure.

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 03-10-2018 at 10:39 AM.
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post #7 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well that theory goes down the drain. When I pulled the pins out they look fine, the crimps looked solid, even though the connector had some soot that was easily cleaned. Nothing melted, not heat damage I could tell.



However the pins seemed to be just a tad loose. I crimped the female connector just a *little* for a tighter connection, cleaned them with ScotchBrite, lubed with dielectric grease and re-connected. I saw no reason for new connectors.

:sigh: More poking around...

(Thanks to the wifely babe for her hand model expertise...)
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post #8 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I'm stuck. Unfortunately, a special tool is required to remove the ignition switch, a hollow torx star. I don't have one.
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post #9 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 07:02 PM
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Engines suddenly cutting out is usually electrical. I would start with looking at any of the interlock switches. Clutch, side stand, neutral safety and engine kill.

L2 DL650 Adventure


bike X miles=smiles
smiles bike=miles
smiles miles=bike.
It's simple math.
https://www.directavionics.com/
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post #10 of 25 Old 03-10-2018, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dravnx View Post
Engines suddenly cutting out is usually electrical. I would start with looking at any of the interlock switches. Clutch, side stand, neutral safety and engine kill.
I took apart the engine kill switch today. Nada.
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