OK Please help im in a tough spot. Bike wont start. - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 3 Old 09-01-2015, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 17
Exclamation OK Please help im in a tough spot. Bike wont start.

So in 5 days myself and a buddy are headed on a week long trip into Michigan's UP. When I tried to go for a ride on Sunday the bike acted like it had a dead or low battery. The head lights come on and the fuel pump primes up but when i hit the start button i get nothing. My current location does not allow me to have many tools, so basically I have the bike kit and some regular hand tools. So here is what I have,
2007 30K on the clock.
Wont start with jumper cables.
Will start if I jump straight to the starter.
Will start if I jump the starter wire at the "lug block" at the base of the gas tank, Both 30 amp fuses are good at the main "lug Block"
Wont start if I jump to the second Main wire on the lug block (Battery Side)
All other fuses check out good.
Bike is in Neutral, so the side stand switch shouldn't matter???(I know its in neutral because I had to push the bike over to the car to jump start it)
Will start when you jump directly from the bikes battery to the Lug Block or starter, So the battery is still good.
When I push the start button the headlights do go out so the handle bar switch is working.

Things to note when jumping directly the clutch lever is bye passed (bike will start without pulling it in), Don't know how to check the clutch switch with out cutting it apart.

Any help would be great I'm running out of time, I don't even know if I can order parts fast enough to make the trip.
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post #2 of 3 Old 09-01-2015, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 17
Found it.

Thanks Greywolf, I was reading one of your other responses and sure enough the clutch wires were completely off. Plugged them back in and she fired right up.

Game on!!!!!
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post #3 of 3 Old 09-01-2015, 11:06 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Puget Sound, and Allegheny County (PA)
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Post trouble-shooting switches in series

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline View Post
So in 5 days myself and a buddy are headed on a week long trip into Michigan's UP. When I tried to go for a ride on Sunday the bike acted like it had a dead or low battery. The head lights come on and the fuel pump primes up but when i hit the start button i get nothing. My current location does not allow me to have many tools, so basically I have the bike kit and some regular hand tools. So here is what I have,
2007 30K on the clock.
Wont start with jumper cables.
Will start if I jump straight to the starter.
Will start if I jump the starter wire at the "lug block" at the base of the gas tank, Both 30 amp fuses are good at the main "lug Block"
Wont start if I jump to the second Main wire on the lug block (Battery Side)
All other fuses check out good.
Bike is in Neutral, so the side stand switch shouldn't matter???(I know its in neutral because I had to push the bike over to the car to jump start it)
Will start when you jump directly from the bikes battery to the Lug Block or starter, So the battery is still good.
When I push the start button the headlights do go out so the handle bar switch is working.

Things to note when jumping directly the clutch lever is bye passed (bike will start without pulling it in), Don't know how to check the clutch switch with out cutting it apart.

Any help would be great I'm running out of time, I don't even know if I can order parts fast enough to make the trip.
I think you need to see whether the start switch is working and whether the clutch switch is working.

To check a switch without cutting wires, you can stick a pair of straight pins through the middle of the two wires which are connected when the switch closes. Each pin should pierce the insulation, pass through the middle of the enclosed stranded wire, and pierce the insulation on the opposite side of the first piercing. (This is to ensure a solid contact between the pin and the wire.) Then, operate each switch individually but not both at once while measuring Ohms between the pins piercing its wires. The Ohms value should be high when the switch is not operated and low, (no more than what the Ohm meter reads with its leads shorted), when the switch is operated.

I expect this procedure will show that one of those two switches does not close when operated. Replace that one.

Depending on where the pin holes are, when you are done and have taken the pins out, you may want to put some electrical tape around the wire to seal the little holes. I do not do that unless I expect a wire to be exposed to water.
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