The Case of the Reluctant Starter - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-23-2018, 08:35 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Easton, PA
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At first, I did not look at the dates on this post. When I saw Greywolf's reply I thought I was loosing my mind. Kind of miss him.
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-24-2018, 01:51 AM
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Location: South Africa
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For those who may be in need, a few helpful pix can be found: Rob 27 - Changement des charbons du démarreur (Rob 27 - Change of starter coals) The coals referred to in the link (meaning carbon / brushes), is a result of google's translation from French to English.
The reported symptom: 'At startup, my K7 39,000 km gave the symptoms of a low battery and struggled to start...'
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post #13 of 15 Old 11-15-2019, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by PTRider View Post
*The coffee-brown color of the copper commutator is good. It doesn't need cleaning. If the commutator had black burned spots or pitting, I would have sanded it with garnet sandpaper--the particles are non-conductive. Do not use emery cloth or aluminum oxide abrasive cloth due to the conductive particles. The mica between the copper segments needs to be slightly below the surface of the copper, and can be scraped down if needed.
Neither emery nor aluminum oxide (both are the same material) are conductive. Aluminum oxide, better known as sapphire, is one of the best electrical insulators known.
One stands zero chance of shorting out their commutator with either product.

That said, one should strive to remove any and all abrasive particles from their commutator after polishing it; no matter what material they used.

As I've told you many times before, the journey is the destination. So to answer your question: Yes, we are there.
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post #14 of 15 Old 11-25-2019, 12:11 PM
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Location: Richmond, VA, USA
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So, I've been following along with this thread and others to try to sort out my starting issue. This one seems to have the most recent posts, so I've decided to reply to it over the others.

My 2011 DL650 (Wee) will start with no issue when cold. Once I drive it for a few miles/minutes, though, it will USUALLY not restart again. After a couple of hours, it will restart.

Thanks to the faithful followers of this forum, I've been successful in completing the following.
- "rebuilt" starter button - cleaned it out, roughed contacts, packed with dielectric grease
- replaced starter relay
- upgraded regulator/rectifier - probably a non-issue, but wanted to try EVERYTHING. Was curious if the warm/cold correlation had anything to do with it.

ANY IDEAS? I haven't fiddled with the clutch sensor, but didn't think it could be that since it works when cold - didn't see the correlation.


The other threads I've tried/followed (couldn't post full links, I'm a newbie):
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post #15 of 15 Old 11-26-2019, 02:09 AM
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If and when the starter motor fails to swing / start, have you measured the voltage across the starter motor terminals while the starter button is depressed? If the voltage is present and of correct value, then you may well have an electrical failure inside the starter motor. If all OK, then work back from that point. A wiring diagram will be required to guide you.
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