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New Boots...How to adjust Shifter so it is Higher?

25K views 39 replies 26 participants last post by  Cheflxrd 
#1 · (Edited)
I just bought a new pair of AlpineStar riding boots, and they are very comfortable, etc. The only problem is it is a struggle to get the boot below the shifter on my 2006 Wee. I read in a thread that you can adjust the height of the Shifter, but could not find any details as to which "fastner" should be adjusted, etc. I took a picture (attached) of what I believe are the only possible areas that might be tweaked to raise the height of the Shifter. Is it correct in the image I took and arrows overlayed on the image it is the Arrow pointing to "A"? Hard to imagine it would be "B". Do I just turn that "fine toothed" nut in one direction or the other to raise the height of the Shifter? Any idea of how much "play" there is to raise it up? e.g. 2 - 3 inches or less?

NOTE: I pulled back the Rider peg when I took the picture so the fastners were not obscured from view (for other Stromers who read this thread in the future to make the same adjustment).

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
 

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#2 ·
I'm anxious to know this myself. I just bought a pair of Sidis and I'm having the same trouble. :confused:
 
#3 ·
Cool, misery loves company! ;-) This forum has never let me down...help is on the way I'm sure.
 
#14 ·
Be carefull not to make a large adjustment at C as you may find there is not enough throw left to shift the trans. in one direction. Either it won't shift up well or it won't shift down well.
 
#5 ·
C is a coarse adjustment. A is the fine adjustment. Loosen the nuts on both sides of the knurled adjuster, turn the adjuster to where you want it and tighten the nuts. One of the locknuts has a left hand thread so be careful. I believe it is the bottom one but a look at the threads will tell you for sure.
 
#34 ·


you can back off the jamb nuts (34 and 37)
.............one's right threaded and the other is left threaded
turn the thumb screw (29) one way and see what it does
if you like the result tighten the jamb nuts
if you don't, turn it the other way
if you can't adjust it enough, see my previous post
When you put your 10mm wrenches on the locknuts (top and bottom), they both turn the same way (as mentioned, one is reverse threaded). I found that to LOOSEN the locknuts, if you are looking from the gastank DOWN at the wrenches, they twist CLOCKWISE. To tighten, counterclockwise (when viewed from above).
I too have some new SIDIs that I'm having a hard time getting under the lever. The problem is exacerbated (whee hah, that's a big word!) by the motocross style wide/cleated pegs. Is there any reason to NOT have the lever pretty far UP?

Thanks fellas!

liVeStrom
Be carefull not to make a large adjustment at C as you may find there is not enough throw left to shift the trans. in one direction. Either it won't shift up well or it won't shift down well.
Thanks for the info ... same new/thicker boots problem.
 
#6 ·
OR



you can back off the jamb nuts (34 and 37)
.............one's right threaded and the other is left threaded
turn the thumb screw (29) one way and see what it does
if you like the result tighten the jamb nuts
if you don't, turn it the other way
if you can't adjust it enough, see my previous post
 
#8 ·
I went out to eat and was gone for a while. You posted an answer before I did. I didn't reply for close to an hour. What more could I have done? :biggrinjester:
 
#9 ·
Dorzok...THANK YOU! Much appreciated :)
 
#10 ·
Greywolf, thank you very much as well. Huge Help! :) Thanx again
 
#12 ·
lock nut direction

When you put your 10mm wrenches on the locknuts (top and bottom), they both turn the same way (as mentioned, one is reverse threaded). I found that to LOOSEN the locknuts, if you are looking from the gastank DOWN at the wrenches, they twist CLOCKWISE. To tighten, counterclockwise (when viewed from above).
I too have some new SIDIs that I'm having a hard time getting under the lever. The problem is exacerbated (whee hah, that's a big word!) by the motocross style wide/cleated pegs. Is there any reason to NOT have the lever pretty far UP?

Thanks fellas!

liVeStrom
 
#13 ·
I ended up NOT adjusting the shifter and allowing my new boots to break in a little...and sure enough, that was all that was needed. I would recommend the same first before adjusting the shifter when using new boots. Just a few short trips and they should be broken in just fine.
 
#18 ·
This did exactly the trick. I have a pair of Sidi Adventure Rain's and all was fine until I changed my foot pegs and then all of a sudden I was missing shifts and doing some funny contortions to get my toe under there. I was able to do it with just the smaller adjusters a "A" - no need to unbolt "C"- there is actually quite a bit of adjustment available there.

Thanks!
 
#20 ·
After about an hr of trying to jam my new Sidi ADV rains in the same spot as my previous sidi mega's. It just wasn't going to work. I went ahead and pulled the splined shifter and adjusted for a little more room. Ahhh..... no issues. Now I just need these boots to break in. I won't be sneaking up on anything either.
 
#26 ·
Same boots, same problem, same fix! They don't get any quieter by the way. I tried some graphite and that helped for about a week and eventually wore away.
 
#23 ·
Awesome info guys. In my ignorance being a new rider and with the new Wee I didn't realize or was hesitant about this adjustment and thought I would have to suffer doing the wierd leg twist to make gear changes. Now I know!
This site is amazing (because of all the helpful people).
 
#24 · (Edited)
Funny that my comment on this old thread garnered so much attention! I ended up adjusting it back down a little today - I found I had to lift my foot up to much for the downshifts. But as a follow up note - this takes all of 5 minutes with a 10mm wrench.

And as for my Adv Rains's ... they have broken in nicely but the toe box is still pretty much as it arrived ... love the boots though, even though they are squeaky to walk in. A little MTB chain lube did wonders in the rivets. :thumbup:
 
#25 ·
A spline change is a large one. You may find a better position with the fine adjuster.
 
#28 ·
The best relationship has part A at a right angle to part C. The picture is close to optimum. I had to move the lever C one spline on my bike to keep the adjuster within limits when I added a Richland Rick lowering kit but it still works fine.

 
#29 ·
Little different on my '04 Vee

Helpful thread; thanks. My '04 Vee is new to me, with 6,800 miles on the clock. I've been occasionally missing third gear, like the travel is too far, and I have to make a conscious effort to crank it up to hit the shift. It's frustrating when you think you're going from second to third and you just end up in second twice.:thumbdown:

Since I'm long legged, the angle of my boot and toe is probably pointed more downward, so I wanted to lower the lever a tad so that I'm not making such an acute angle with my ankle when upshifting.

Seems as though the design of the linkage changed from '04 to the pictures in the thread. The linkage between the two counter-threaded nuts does not have a adjustment wheel on it. Had to grab it with small vice-grips to break the nuts loose, then the shaft was easy to turn by hand. Had to reattach the vice-grips to tighten back down.

I'll give the new adjustment a test drive tomorrow. I may lower the brake pedal as well, since I find myself having to raise my foot off the peg to get my toe up onto the pedal. Of course, I'm a light rear brake'er anyway.

Guess I'm just making adjustments to get the bike set up to suit my body.
 
#31 ·
Be aware the lower lock nut has a left hand thread,
 
#32 ·
Pivot Pegz and Shifter Adjustment

Thanks to all for the tips on adjustments. I installed a pair of pivot pegs, advrider.com, and found that shifting was a pain in the foot.

Breaking out the kit tonight to adjust the shifter.

In searching threads on the web, I turned up lots of bits on folding shift levers I had not considered previously, so now turning attention to machine a folding bit to modify a stock unit. details as they come.
 
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