Brake Line and Brake Fluid Replacement - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 33 Old 08-03-2012, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Line and Brake Fluid Replacement

I have a set of SS brake lines, including the extended upper brake line for my '09 ABS Wee. My question is, is there any special procedure for flushing and bleeding the brakes on the ABS Wee. I have a shop manual, but it's not for the ABS version. Thanks.

'09 DL650
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post #2 of 33 Old 08-03-2012, 03:36 PM
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The manual just refers to the pre 2007 page on brake bleeding. Some have said getting the front wheel up higher helps get air out of the lines to the pump but the manual say nothing about it.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #3 of 33 Old 08-04-2012, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Guess I'll just have to jump in there and just do it. Interesting that there isn't an ABS-specific instruction.

'09 DL650
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post #4 of 33 Old 08-12-2012, 12:03 AM
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I found this post by searching brake line bleeding - glad I found it.

I just installed a set of Gaffer SS brake lines on the front end of my 2007 DL650. The kit I have is the one using two separate lines, with a double banjo bolt at the master cylinder. Everything went together fine, in the order it is suppose to.

I removed the master cyl cap to make it easier to add fluid, as I fed and bled two new (empty) lines. I started by opening the bleeder on the right-hand wheel cylinder. When I started pumping the brake lever, there was an initial push of fluid coming out of the clear drain line I attached. Then, it stopped and the system never built any pressure and the fluid level did not drop.

I closed the bleeder screw and moved to the left-hand wheel cylinder. I hooked up my clear drain line and opened the bleeder screw. Same thing happened - an initial push of fluid, and then nothing more. I closed that bleeder screw (both closed now) and pumped the brake lever (a lot) to see if any pressure would build. It doesn't.

I see that there's a bleeder screw on the front master cylinder. I haven't done anything with that yet, thinking instead I'd post this rather than make a mistake. What is the purpose of that bleed screw? Do I need to open that to help fill the empty lines? I think the fluid that came out of the wheel cylinders was old fluid already in them, and that air created by pumping the brake lever, pushed that small amount of fluid... not new fluid in the new lines.

BTW, I have installed and bled a lot of brakes on cars, bikes, go-karts, etc. This is the first time I have experienced "nothing" happening when pumping the master cylinder.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Scott ...(a.k.a. Scoots)

2007 Suzuki V-Strom DL650

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post #5 of 33 Old 08-12-2012, 12:18 AM
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I found another thread on this topic and it seems I need to be more patient. It takes a long time to replace the air in a new line with fluid, just by pumping the brake lever. I saw a couple tips about opening the bleeders and tieing back the brake lever to create an open-ended system that will fill by gravity and atmospheric pressure. Okaaaaayyyyyy, if that's what it takes.

I'm still interested to know more about the bleeder screw on the master cylinder. And... I'm still open to suggestions, confirmations, condolences, congratulations and other forms or positive communications with humans... and dogs.

Cheers!

Scott ...(a.k.a. Scoots)

2007 Suzuki V-Strom DL650

The fine brands that help make it my own...
Cee Bailey
Madstad
Sargent Saddle
Air Hawk
Givi
SW Motech
Richland Rick
Oxford Heaterz
Eastern Beaver
BackOFF XP
Alpena Quadfire
Joe Rocket
RAM
Garmin
SENA
Shinko 705
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post #6 of 33 Old 08-12-2012, 01:32 AM
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Are you talking about a bleed nipple on an aftermarket banjo bolt? The stock master cylinder doesn't have a bleeder screw.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #7 of 33 Old 08-12-2012, 09:48 PM
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You are absolutely correct, the master cylinder does NOT have a bleeder, nor does the banjo bolt.

When the brakes didn't pump up pressure and bleed as expected, went back to the instructions provided with the brake line kit. The instructions said the master cylinder had a bleeder valve. Being very late, and already tired from a long day, I didn't do a full visual inspection.

I felt around the master cylinder and thought I found it. What I found was part of the brake light switch. My tired mind allowed me to believe the instructions and I was convinced I had found it.

I looked at it again after reading your reply. Duh! I had already talked to a couple guys today and they gave a few suggestions, which I'll try next. Mainly, to remove the banjo bolts at the wheel cylinders and pump fluid through the lines. Once they start passing brake fluid, reinstall them and start filling and bleeding the wheel cylinders.

Thanks for the reply. Pardon my whacky question - I'm normally much better informed when asking for assistance.

Scott ...(a.k.a. Scoots)

2007 Suzuki V-Strom DL650

The fine brands that help make it my own...
Cee Bailey
Madstad
Sargent Saddle
Air Hawk
Givi
SW Motech
Richland Rick
Oxford Heaterz
Eastern Beaver
BackOFF XP
Alpena Quadfire
Joe Rocket
RAM
Garmin
SENA
Shinko 705
K&N
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post #8 of 33 Old 08-13-2012, 10:26 AM
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a few things to remember

This thread is timely, as I've done this three times this month. I'll add a few things I've learned about refilling the braking systems on this bike:
  • The rear is tricky because the highest point in the system is the loop of hose near the exhaust. What worked for me was velocity: get fluid moving quickly by using lots of lever pressure.
  • For the front, the key is patience. It can take a long time for air to bubble up to the master cylinder. Start by letting fluid drain from the MC to the calipers by gravity; then bleed as normal. Once air stops coming out, stop pouring more fluid in; you're just wasting it (ask the man who has gone through a gallon of DOT 4 this month ). Let it sit for a couple of hours, with the bike on the side stand and the wheel full lock left (so the MC is the highest point in the system); work the lever slowly every few minutes. Pressure will eventually return.
  • The front was at about 80%, but still not quite right, after I was done. The final step to get the front to firm up to where it should be is to clamp the lever overnight (I used a velcro strap), with the wheel full lock left, to get it to burp. That did the trick for me.
  • I have and used a Mity Vac, but I don't think it was very useful. I wouldn't bother with it next time.

Hope this helps. For the record, mine is not an ABS model; YMMV.
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post #9 of 33 Old 08-13-2012, 10:49 AM
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Bleeding the master cylinder is the tedious part, as dtalk describes. You can hold a rag under the banjo bolt, squeeze the lever, slightly loosen the banjo, bleed bubbles out, tighten, release the lever, add fluid if necessary, do it again and again and again. Air bubbles in the fluid rise, so give them a place to rise to and escape. Strapping the lever down overnight works.

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post #10 of 33 Old 08-13-2012, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtalk View Post
[*]The front was at about 80%, but still not quite right, after I was done. The final step to get the front to firm up to where it should be is to clamp the lever overnight (I used a velcro strap), with the wheel full lock left, to get it to burp. That did the trick for me.
Well, crap. It was great this morning, but as soon as it got warm, I was right back where I was yesterday. I think that clearly implicates some air somewhere, which expanded as the temp rose. I'll clamp it again tonight.
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