: Had my Wee a week, been doing lots and lots of prep work to it so when I finish my vacation I can just ride and ride and ride. I got the idea from someone else on the forum who mentioned he wanted the ability to put his lock cylinders in permanently open position and remove the key for quick open/closing
, and I incorporated some safety stuff from the thread about "fixing" the lock cylinders to prevent them from vibrating loose/off while riding
. I also included a fix so they rotate VERY smoothly into lock and unlock
. No need to graphite, wear it in, etc. etc.
-Needlenose pliers to remove the C-clips.
-Key to hold in the pins (so they don't all fly around when you remove the lock barrel.
-Two flat nose pliers to SLIGHTLY
bend the latch (explained later)
-Dremel with a thin grinding type attachment (it's soft metal...nothing fancy needed.
-Hot Glue Gun
-And of course, beer.
Should take about a hour or two, take your time. It's a lot of closeup work with a small cylinder, take some breaks and have fun.
Here's some pics showing stock Cylinder.
1) Here are three pictures. The locks we're fixing, the 90 degree "stop" that it comes with from the factory, and the inside showing the C-clip in the 90 degree position. You can only turn the lock cylinder in one direction, and only 90 degrees.
2) Remove the C-clip with needlenose pliers
- Put the key in the lock and LEAVE IT IN! It'll prevent the little pins from falling out of it and springing all over the place. The key should stay in till you're DONE with that lock!
3) It's a little hard to see, but in this general area (note direction of key), is a small protrusion that we're going to file away with the dremel. You'll see the filed away part later and it's a better picture of where it is.
4) Here's the tool I used on the dremel. I held it perpendicular to the lock cylinder and filed it down till it looked like I was "buffing" the round part of the lock cylinder. Worked for me.
5) Here are two pictures showing the filed down part. Easier to see the location in these pictures of where it WAS.
6) Here's the end result. A picture showing the key in and turned to the "LOCK" position. Followed immediately by a picture with the key in and turned 180 degrees (at which point it is unlocked, and you can pull the key out and leave it unlocked). In addition, you can turn the key EITHER direction to unlock/lock it, and the key will NOT pull out unless it's in the locked, or 180 degrees to the locked position.
7) BEFORE putting the tab back on it, we're going to do some bending. Take one of the flat nose pliers and grasp it, past the star hole (great descriptions, huh?!). The other flat nose plier should only have about 1/3 of the tab to grasp (the solid side). Take it, and bend it VERY VERY slightly towards the flat side (one side is flatter than the other). We're looking for a VERY slight bend here. 10 degrees is probably way too much. Here's a pic of what worked for me.
What this does is keep the tab from scraping any part of the slot it locks into and allows for the key to turn freely. My key will turn 360 degrees VERY smoothly in either direction. It may take some trial and error to find that right bend. But only a little is needed.
8) Now to throw some hot glue in the mix just as a little insurance to keep things from vibrating loose. I chose hot glue cause it's easier to use than crazy glue, cheaper (if you have a gun already), and VERY easy to remove or clean up any spots that got extra glue on it.
I glued the little tab that holds the whole cylinder on, and threw some glue overlapping the C-clip and the tab to keep that one on.
That's it. Finishing up tonight, and I'll feel a whole lot better about riding around, and now have the ability to leave a box unlocked if I know I'm just gonna run to the store with it empty and bring something back home.