Rear axle nut torque - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 01-01-2012, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
Vne
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Rear axle nut torque

Is the DL650 torque the same 72.5 ft lbs on the castlelated nut and the lock nut. Just replaced my 04 with a 09 and noticed they replaced the castlelated nut and cotter pin with a lock nut on the rear axle. I don't have the 09 owners manual to verify and my factory maintainence manual is for the 04.

Search doesn't give me any answers so I'm guessing they are the same.

Thanks in advance

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post #2 of 15 Old 01-01-2012, 04:59 PM
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The spec is unchanged. I still recommend using anti seize and 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication factor. There are too many stories about galled axle nuts not to take precautions.
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-01-2012, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
The spec is unchanged. I still recommend using anti seize and 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication factor. There are too many stories about galled axle nuts not to take precautions.

Thanks. Saw the posts about the stripped threads. I always torqued my 04 to 72.5 and didn't have any issues for almost 70k miles worth of adjustments and tire changes. Sounds like I was lucky.

Asked about the lock nut because back in my helicopter maintenance days in most applications we would add the drag torque to the standard torque which usually added 15%. This is defiantly not helicopter maintenance.

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2004 DL650 Blue (sold)
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post #4 of 15 Old 01-01-2012, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
The spec is unchanged. I still recommend using anti seize and 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication factor. There are too many stories about galled axle nuts not to take precautions.
Hey GW,

Like you, I replaced my Dual Star nut with the 2009 DL1000 fuji nut, plus I added the original washer. Just a curious observation: to me the torque felt kind of vague compared to the larger Dual Star nut. I suppose this was because of the smaller nut outer dimension and the washer. Of course I torqued to the same value nonetheless. I am glad that I no longer need to add a special axle nut wrench to my tool kit. Thanks for that suggestion.

07 DL1000, all farkled up
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-07-2012, 02:42 PM
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+1 With Greywolf's Advice But With Caveat

Last week, I replaced my rear brake pads by partially (as in, removing the caliper from the bracket but keeping the brake union hose attached) removing the caliper so I can clean the underside of the caliper and re-grease (I used Versachem's synthetic brake and caliper grease) the bolts and sliding pin. I then took the opportunity to remove, clean, and spread some copper-based anti-seize on the rear axle locknut and torqued it to 60 ft-lbs (I improvised because I was using a non-Snap On torque wrench, which conventional wisdom says is the best of the best).

I marked the nut and axle with a black permanent marker and, after a week, noticed that it loosened by about 1 mm.

YMMV, but I still agree with the anti-seize suggestion.
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-07-2012, 04:42 PM
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Simple solution.

Don't torque the axle nut.

Just use common sense, and tighten it snugly. The rear wheel isn't going anywhere. The chain pulling forward, and the adjusters pushing backwards are assuring you of that.

B.L.

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post #7 of 15 Old 04-13-2012, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Lab View Post
Simple solution.

Don't torque the axle nut.

Just use common sense, and tighten it snugly. The rear wheel isn't going anywhere. The chain pulling forward, and the adjusters pushing backwards are assuring you of that.

B.L.

Yep. Where the hell do people think that axle is going to go, anyway?

Over on the vintage Suzuki forums, tales abound of people who blindly trust a torque wrench and a blurry number in a badly translated manual and proceed to snap, gall, and otherwise lay waste to dozens of innocent fasteners.

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post #8 of 15 Old 04-13-2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Lab View Post
Simple solution.

Don't torque the axle nut.

Just use common sense, and tighten it snugly. The rear wheel isn't going anywhere. The chain pulling forward, and the adjusters pushing backwards are assuring you of that.

B.L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
Yep. Where the hell do people think that axle is going to go, anyway?

Over on the vintage Suzuki forums, tales abound of people who blindly trust a torque wrench and a blurry number in a badly translated manual and proceed to snap, gall, and otherwise lay waste to dozens of innocent fasteners.
LOL, you guys are sooo right. Torque wrenches have their place, and most of the time that place is resting quietly in the bottom of the tool box.

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post #9 of 15 Old 07-06-2012, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
The spec is unchanged. I still recommend using anti seize and 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication factor. There are too many stories about galled axle nuts not to take precautions.

WISH I HAD KNOWN THIS!!!


I took my rear axel nut off my 05 vstrom 650 for the first time since purchase, about 2 months ago (rear tire was worn a shop is mounting and balancing a new rear for me when I bring them the rim). Anyways the nut was probably over torqued or seized so the threads are damaged on the axel. Not to the point where the axel cannot be used, but I am very nervous so I think I need a new axel....

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Previous Rides:
05 Suzuki Vstrom Dl650 K5 - Destroyed by deer.
95 Honda Magna VF750C -Sold
84 Honda Magna VF700C -Sold
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-06-2012, 02:31 AM
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after much debate, i ordered a new axle for the 05, and the nut from the 2011 from oneida suzuki! hope it gets here soon!

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Previous Rides:
05 Suzuki Vstrom Dl650 K5 - Destroyed by deer.
95 Honda Magna VF750C -Sold
84 Honda Magna VF700C -Sold
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