R/R Regulator rectifier replaced with a MOSFET (pics included) - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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R/R Regulator rectifier replaced with a MOSFET (pics included)

Ok so here's the story: I began having problems with my bike one day, it wouldn't start, was completely dead, the 30 a green fuse was blown, I replaced it with the spare one but it blew again even before I could try to start the bike.

I got some suggestions that it might be the R/R and I saw a thread from Greywolf explaining the advantages of replacing the OEM one with this MOSFET one. I bought and installed easily and now the bike is running right again, so, I decided to post this thread to show anyone interested how I did it and also to get some feedback as I'm kind of new with this matters. (Also, sorry if my English is not so good, I'll do my best...

I recommend you take a look to Graywolf's thread about the performance of the MOSFET R/R,

Also I recommend you also see the guide that donstrom6 published here, it was very helpful for me!

I bought the new MOSFET with Jack in this page. I bought the super mosfet kit, thanks to Jack for an excellent service and fast shipment, I got it in Mexico City in just 4 days.

Last edited by luisjose5; 10-13-2011 at 02:04 AM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Part 1: Disassemble

Remove the screws marked with red, remove the gray lid and you then have free access to the Regulator Rectifier (R/R)

Last edited by luisjose5; 11-23-2015 at 01:49 AM.
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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Remove the R/R

Unplug the two connectors (black and white on my DL1000 year 2007) and unscrew the screws to demount the R/R

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post #4 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Cut the wires

Cut the wires that come from the old R/R (you can just cut the wires that go to the black connector, you won't be needing the white one, in fact, you will need to wrap the white connector that remains on the bike to prevent any loose connection).

Last edited by luisjose5; 11-23-2015 at 01:49 AM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Remove the stock bracket

Remove the stock bracket that used to hold the old R/R, you wont be using it as the MOSFET wont fit in it, the good news it that it fits perfectly without that bracket... I took the rubber grommets from it, cut them thin and used them between the MOSFET and the plate to minimize vibration.

Last edited by luisjose5; 11-23-2015 at 01:49 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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Install the new MOSFET R/R

The new MOSFET fits perfectly, BUT, if you install it will be impossible to connect the black connector to it, so YOU HAVE TO CONNECT IT BEFORE you mount it, once it's connected you will make your way and assemble the R/R into place, and the you can screw it securely. The gray connector will be easily connected later on...

Last edited by luisjose5; 11-23-2015 at 01:49 AM.
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post #7 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Crimping the connectors

In the super kit that I bought almost all the connections where already finished. The only thing I had to do was to reattach the black connector to the new R/R, this was easily done thanks to Kit.

In the images you can see the two pieces before the union, I just stripped the necessary length and then crimped the terminals, it's important to notice that it does not matter where cable goes to which terminal.

Then, I just heated the heatshrink tube cover (I used a normal lighter) to shrink the cover.

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post #8 of 8 Old 10-13-2011, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Connect the terminals and you're all set

Finally, connect all the terminals, connect the cables to the battery and you're ready to try it.

After one or two minutes, the voltmeter showed 14.4 steady.


That's pretty much it.

Many thanks to Graywolf for all the advices, I wouldn't be able to do this without them!, and also thanks to donstrom6 for his guide.

Last edited by luisjose5; 11-23-2015 at 01:49 AM.
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